My Gap Year

Rogue emails - don't open

2011-11-23T22:34:00.001Z

Apologies – apparently some rogue emails have gone out from my account – if they look at all suspicious please don’t open them. They have started ‘Dear Friend’, I understand...

I’m just about to change my password on advice – hope that stops it.

Meanwhile, greetings to any of you I’ve neglected recently...

Cecilia

Cecilia McConnell

T: 0161 285 8582

M: 07828 514866

Re: I AM FREE NOW!!

2011-11-23T17:06:00.001Z

Hey Friend...
achieve from it amazing economic venture
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c ya.

Fwd: Your question

2011-11-06T00:20:00.001Z

Hi Friend!
hope was fading fast finding this was such a relief its crazy how the
tables have turned I had to share this with someone
http://largoland.la.funpic.de/JustinTurner77.html
talk to you soon.

Around the World in 274 Days

2008-08-03T19:35:00.004+01:00

'Around the World in 274 Days'... Doesn't have that certain ring to it, does it? But I was back at the Reform Club, oh no, sorry, home, last Friday 1st August. I had a wonderful welcoming committee at the airport - Emma made it to me for the first hug, having snuck under the barrier, but Katye and Alex soon joined in for a tearful, happy reunion.
Reflecting on my trip - I've beaten no records, covered no ground that hasn't already been covered by many others, but I have achieved personal satisfaction in a goal achieved. Nine months ago I was on the brink of my great adventure, wondering what it would be like to travel with fewer possessions than I usually take for a week away, with no one on hand to make my decisions, further away from family and friends than I have ever been. I'm sleeping better now than I did that last week in England before I set off! My trip has taken me to S.E.Asia, New Zealand, Australia and the USA. I've seen spectacular places; I've seen areas where people live their daily lives. I've made new friends; I've visited familiar ones. I've lingered in some places and sometimes moved on the next day. I can honestly say that I have found something interesting everywhere I've been and have never been bored for a moment. For someone whose life has been pretty ordered up to now, it has been challenging to set off in the morning not knowing where I would be sleeping that night. Life will never be the same again! I was encouraged to keep this blog by several people before I left. I had no idea what a link it would be with home. The feedback I've received from it has been amazing - incredibly, some of you are still out there, reading this! While I'm typing, I always feel close to you, and after blogging I always feel uplifted. So thank you to all of you - the faithful, read every line ones, and the 'dippers' who check up on me every so often to check I haven't fallen off the edge of the world. Without you all, I wouldn't have continued to blog, and it has served to focus my thoughts and make a lasting record for me to examine in years to come. Caution - travel is addictive - you may be subjected to more blogs of this nature when sufficient time has elapsed for funds to be topped up and memories of scary moments to have faded.... watch this space... you have been warned...

Last days in the USA

2008-07-31T13:48:00.015+01:00

Making the most of the remaining time, I decided to retrace my steps to Philadelphia, having glimpsed it from a train the previous week. So, bidding a temporary farewell to John and Taylor in New York, I climbed aboard a bus in Chinatown and for the princely sum of $12 (about six pounds), travelled the two hours back into Pennsylvania. I had no idea where the bus would stop, so when I spotted a sign for the visitor center (sic), I leapt up in excitement and managed to disrupt the whole bus - try alighting gracefully while getting past your neighbour in the aisle seat, extracting your backpack from an overhead locker, picking up the bottles which have flown out of the sides of your rucksack and rolled down the aisle, as 50-odd mainly Chinese people look at you in amazement tinged with annoyance... Well, it livened up the end of the journey!
I found Philly to be a very pleasant and interesting city. Lots of squares with fountains in which to sit and either read or people-watch; many beautiful murals - being added to all the time - they are worth a visit in themselves; lots of historical sites. I was lucky enough to catch the last tour of the day to the Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, and also the Constitution in 1787. I also avoided the queues for the Liberty Bell, by arriving just as it was about to close for the evening. The bell was made by British craftsmen, but actually cracked when it was being tested before installation. Hoorah for British workmanship! The penitentiary was fascinating too - built on the belief that solitary confinement would force a person to look inward and repent, so each cell was single with its own exercise yard. It was copied throughout Europe. Philadelphia was built on the principles of religious freedom - it was at one time the only place in the British Empire that a Catholic mass could be openly celebrated.
I also had my usual good fortune in catching a musical event down by the river one day; called "Fam Jam", it was a showcase of family bands in the vein of the Osmonds, Jacksons, Nolan Sisters... all youngsters and very enthusiastic. Live music and sunshine - can't beat it...
I treated myself to a couple of days in a hotel with an outside pool; the weather was hot, and dipping in and out in the early evening was like being on holiday! The lifeguard was good eye-candy too... But eventually I decided that I was cheating (and running out of cash!) as there was a hostel in Philadelphia - no excuse for not staying there - so I moved for the last couple of nights. It was perfectly adequate, but the largest female dorm that I've stayed in thus far - 28 beds in the one room. My earplugs and eye mask were resurrected for the occasion.
And so back for my final couple of days in New York. John, Taylor and I managed to dispose of some good vodka and set the world to rights - alcohol and good conversation are such a good mix; and I was privileged enough to be allowed to sit in on Taylor's practice session for her next gig this Friday in Boston, which sadly I shall miss. She is so talented - sitting in the apartment, eyes closed, listening to her play was the purest pleasure.
And so I have only one more journey left in this odyssey - and it is the most exciting of all - going home! Further musings to follow...

New York, New York ... Taylor's gig!

2008-07-24T17:06:00.003+01:00

Throughout my travels I have carried my MP3 player, listening to a CD entitled 'Transatlantic Lammy', composed and performed, piano and voice, by my great American friend Taylor. Finally the moment had arrived - I was to see her perform live in concert in New York! The venue was a bar in Manhattan, called The Bitter End. It was a good setting - an intimate atmosphere, an air of expectancy. We were joined by some other friends, including Patricia and Jeff who were to accompany Taylor in places on respectively cello and saxophone (what a bonus for me - saxophone and piano are positively my favourite instruments!).
Well, what can I say? I had been looking forward to this event for months, and it well exceeded my already high expectations. Taylor has a beautiful voice, plays piano like an angel, and her lyrics say something to me, and I would guess to anyone listening. The highlights for me were 'Steel Up', which she dedicated to me and reduced me to tears; and of course 'Nearer than Closeness', for John. It was magical. Please do visit http://www.taylorgiacoma.com/ - and see what I'm talking about... (Apologies for the poor quality of my photo - you'll see much better on the website.)
I love New York! This is my third visit, apart from one night in 1982 when I was lucky enough to ascend to the top of one of the Twin Towers. Taylor and John live in a fabulous location overlooking the river. If you stroll out of the apartment you can immediately see the Statue of Liberty; you can easily walk to Battery Park and watch the queues of people waiting patiently for ferries to the statue and to Ellis Island, where the immigrants landed and were accepted or rejected. As I've visited most of the obvious tourist attractions before, I feel free to wander in a more casual fashion, and people-watch, which is always fascinating. Taylor can distinguish easily between New Yorkers and tourists from other states; I still think of 'tourists' as people from overseas; I guess the only tourists we get in Stockport tend to be non-Brits.
Yesterday I travelled under the river to Brooklyn and took in the Botanical Gardens - I must have seen a dozen or so on my travels; considering I can't tell one flower or tree from another, some people might find this a strange thing to do, but I just love wandering down grassy paths, beside streams, smelling the roses and watching pond-dipping children. This particular place has allotments for children - they all come one day in spring and plant or sow, and maintain their plot throughout the year. I think this is such a lovely idea... maybe if I'd had such an opportunity I would know a daisy from a daffodil?
Yesterday Taylor and I visited the Jewish Heritage Museum. As you will understand, this was a learning experience and a saddening one. The museum has three floors showing the history, the events of World War 2, and the present day. I need to return one day to complete the visit, as it was too much for me to take in at one go. One should really complete the tour, to end on an uplifting note.
We decided to lift ourselves with a cocktail and settled for a chinwag, cheesy chips and vodka at a table overlooking the river. This is the life! I could live here... We then collected John and headed off to a restaurant high in a skyscraper, where we topped up (considerably!) our alcohol levels - vodka, chocolate and Baileys all in one glass seems to work well... We were then treated to the most amazing storm I've ever witnessed - the sky was lit up almost continuously by brilliant flashes of lightning; just when you thought it was moving on, it flashed again, and again. Eventually the thunder arrived and with it torrential rain. Sitting so high up, watching this stunning display lighting up the misty New York skyline was truly humbling. We watched in awe and delight.
For some strange reason, I was late getting up this morning, and feeling not quite my usual sparky self. I had planned to backtrack today to Philadelphia, only seen thus far from the train. I may still make it; or I may go tomorrow. The joy of unbooked travelling at whim! I'll let you know what happens...

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Tubing Down the Shenandoah

2008-07-24T16:02:00.000+01:00

I'm hard pushed to think of anything more relaxing than floating down a gently moving river on a hot day, within reach of a buoyant cooler filled with ice-cold cans! This was a trip organised by Ros's daughter Vicki for her church social group; she very kindly invited me along. Another 'first' for me, and for several of the 44 people who joined in, including Lily, aged 6 I believe, and Mary-Lou, who is over eighty. I enjoyed it so much that it was suggested as my new career that I should introduce tubing to the Thames - 'grey water rafting', someone suggested! We decided on the Thames rather than the Cam, as I felt that the punters might be a bit sniffy about a load of inner tubes encroaching on their space... It was a wonderful day out with lovely people, ending with drinks at Mary-Lou's house and a very American dinner out - most of us went for the breakfast menu (pancakes for me - mmmmmmmm!).
I had travelled up to Washington D.C. with Ros the previous day; we embarked rather foolishly on a city tour. The day was far too hot for this - walking was totally exhausting - we staggered from one patch of shade to the next without much relief from the steamy atmosphere, and when on the non-air-conditioned trolley we both nearly passed out... But I did get to see the sights of D.C. and learn a lot from the commentary, and got up close to the Lincoln Memorial, and all in excellent company, so I was content.
The next day I said a fond farewell to Ros and Vicki, promising myself that I shall not let 19 years go by before we meet again! I have 2 other daughters to renew acquaintance with, and 3 - soon to be 4 - grandchildren to meet, and of course I'm keen for Ros to see Katye and Alex again and meet my own granddaughter Emma.
So, on to my first train trip in the USA, from D.C. to New York. I was nicely settled in, backpack safely stowed, enjoying watching the scenery rush past ... wait, not rushing any more... ah, not actually moving any more... yes, the engine had broken down, taking the air conditioning with it. But hey, it got everyone in the carriage talking to each other, so all was not in vain. We were just outside Philadelphia, a city I've missed on my travels, so I wondered aloud whether I should hop off for a quick tour, and was told it was well worth a visit! Eventually, though, a 'rescue engine' chugged up and towed us into the station where we picked up our bags and walked.. to another train, and I finally arrived in the Big Apple only an hour or so later than planned; found my way via the subway with some advice from a friendly stranger, to the welcome sight of John's smiling face. Plenty of time to spare to get ready for the event to which I'd been looking forward with great excitement ever since I realised I would be able to attend - Taylor's gig. But that's another story - watch this space!

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End of the Road Trip

2008-07-17T01:14:00.000+01:00

My road trip is over - I've said a sad farewell to my rental car, squashed my goods and chattels back into my backpack with great difficulty, and landed at Ros's house in Richmond, Virginia. My journey from San Francisco (3,000 miles according to the atlas) actually took me 5,031 miles. I knew I'd been lost a few times, but still...!
When I left you last, I was on my way to the river in Chattanooga. I enjoyed my lunch cruise very much; it was relaxing and informative; I was also singled out as the person who had travelled the furthest to be there. I was awarded 2 'moon pies' - a bit like Wagon Wheels, manufactured locally, but was told to pass one on to the Queen when next I run into her at a social occasion. Unfortunately it looked like it was going to melt before we could make contact, so I had to eat it... I was interested to see some Amish people on the boat - the men and older boys sporting long beards and trousers with braces; the women and girls in calico-type frocks and bonnets. I know that they do not embrace modern technology and wondered about the power driven boat; I didn't get a chance to question them, sadly.
The weather has been incredibly hot - tee-shirt clings damply to the back, fringe to forehead. It is very humid here, which tends to sap the energy a bit, but still wins over chilly English weather in my book! I have been through several thunderstorms, though - one of which forced drivers off the road, as visibility was practically nil.
From Chattanooga I've driven on a couple of stretches of the Blue Ridge Parkway, part of the Appalachian mountain range. This has been absolutely delightful, being almost completely forested with lovely streams running along beside the road. Such a contrast with the Rockies in the West. Both awe-inspiring landscapes, but totally different. The Parkway is a winding road with many stopping places, always with a view crying out for a photograph to be taken. It makes its way through several tunnels - all without lighting - only the car headlights, making this mildly claustrophobic wimp a bit fearful at times. I stopped at a town called Pigeon Forge, near Gatlinberg, which took me very much by surprise by being extremely commercialised - a bit like Blackpool, really! Lots of 'attractions' of the "Ripley's Believe It or Not" variety. I didn't stay long there, and headed for Asheville, in North Carolina. I loved this town - it had an obvious centre that I could negotiate, finding a parking place relatively easily; and a weekly samba-fest in the park on the Friday evening. I think the whole town must have been there, either playing some form of percussion instrument, or dancing. I thought it would be rude not to join in the festivities. Such fun! I want to live there...
I shall gloss over the next day; suffice it to say that not many people have the talent to drive 87 miles before realising it's completely the wrong direction. I thought I was heading East into Virginia; maybe the large sign saying "South Carolina" should have given me a clue. But in mitigation, I have to say that the highway directions are very confusing. One marked e.g. I26 EAST quite often heads off in a southerly direction. It is very confusing. REALLY. But hey, add another state to my total. So the next couple of days took me back through some lovely small towns to regain my route along the Parkway. My last night on the road, in Lexington, Virginia, was spend in a suite in a Days Inn motel - a coupon made it affordable, and the second television was very useful in settling my indecision over channel choice...
So that brought me safely to Ros, and my first period not on my own since I left Nick and Fenella in Sydney. It is lovely once again to be in good company and comfortable accommodation. Ros and I have had a lot of catching up to do, and the conversation has been flowing freely. I have explored the canal walk, the James River rapids (unusual in an urban setting), the Civil War museum; Richmond was the capital of the confederacy, and its fall to the Union troops signalled the tail end of the war. I had a very congenial evening with some of Ros's friends in a restaurant called Bottoms Up in an area called Shockoe Bottom - a place which was completely flooded in 2004 but is now restored and serving very tasty pizza. Ros took today off work and we wandered around the botanical gardens - very colourful and well laid out. I am enjoying being in one place for a few days, with local knowledge to guide me. Next stop Washington D.C., then on to New York!

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Pardon me Boy...

2008-07-09T16:29:00.000+01:00

...is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo? YES, it is! Here I am, and what a great place! I came here on a whim - I had the choice when leaving Nashville either to revisit Louisville, where I worked in the early 80s, and go on to Charleston to see the setting of my current reading matter 'Scarlett'; or to go south. I chose the latter and haven't regretted it. After I left you last week, I headed for Fort Smith, in Arkansas, and had a pleasant day seeing the multiple gallows where outlaws were hanged, and the local whorehouse (from 'back in the day', not currently operational). Neither very uplifting experiences(!), but interesting; there was also a lovely riverside walk, which kept me happy. The weather has continued hot, hot, hot, with the occasional thunderstorm, but I've avoided the natural disasters not far off (fires in California, floods up north) thus far. I carried on to Broken Bow, near Beavers Bend National Park, hoping for a good hike; this didn't happen - it's more geared for families and camping, and the trails are not obvious enough for a spacially-challenged female such as I.
So, on to Hot Springs, just outside Little Rock. Bill Clinton was raised in Hot Springs, and they don't let you forget it! I found it to be a lovely spa town, though - on the lines of Buxton or Bath, with a lively history and pretty gardens in which to wander. I also managed a strenuous walk up to the Mountain Tower, then a climb by the staircase to the top for great view of the town and surroundings. I also went to an eve-of-4th-July party with sidestalls, country music (of course!) and fireworks. I felt a bit of an outsider as they celebrated getting rid of my ancestors - but everyone I spoke to was friendly, thankfully. One guy I spoke to says when he travels he pretends to be Canadian, as there's so much antipathy towards Americans at the moment.
I spent the 4th itself in Memphis. This has a lovely riverfront, and an island appropriately named Mud Island, which formed in the early twentieth century, but the focus is Beale Street, the Birthplace of the Blues. Lots of cafes, all with live music pouring out of the door. Also, being a holiday, there were bands and entertainers in the street. What better than to sit in the sunshine with an ice-cream, listening to blues/jazz? I have to admit here that I forewent (?) the required visit to Graceland - it was quite pricey, and I decided I didn't need to see where Elvis lived - hearing his music (everywhere!) was as good as a feast...
On then to Nashville - a place I had enjoyed back in December 1982. Either it has changed out of all recognition, or I'm thinking of somewhere else completely! More great music, though, so not a wasted journey.
So now I'm in Chattanooga, beneath Lookout Mountain, the southernmost peak of the Appalachians. It is quite commercialised, but I was happy yesterday to mingle with the vacationers wandering along rocky paths and enjoying the view at the top of seven states. I realised that I have visited 9 states so far - California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee and Georgia (for about 6 hours yesterday). Not bad going...
I ended the day on the Incline Railway - VERY steep, having a chat with some members of a sorority convention. In other words, a girls' week-long party. Sounds good to me!
I then checked into a motel run by a couple from Bradford, so another good chinwag, before my nightly swim and read by the pool (still haven't mastered swimming 'properly' with my face in the water, John), before a trip to the family restaurant for my dinner which nearly always includes huge salad and fruit with chocolate sauce in the price...
The only downer is that my cellphone oops sorry, mobile phone - fell into the vernacular there - has no display now - the backlight has stopped working, so I can't read any texts, or access any information. So if I forget your birthday or don't call, please forgive me...
I'm off now to the river - hoping for a cruise on a paddle steamer in the sunshine. Such a tough life...
PS Sorry, no photos - struggling again to find internet access, and library doesn't allow downloads...

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O-O-O-Oklahoma!

2008-06-30T16:35:00.013+01:00

Yes, I'm halfway across the continent - the furthest I could be from the sea - laterally speaking. Here's a taste of the differing landscapes I'm encountering; the first picture shows that after 8 months of searching, I've discovered my true vocation, and can stop looking...

The second picture shows me at the (literally) dizzying heights of Pikes Peak - after a VERY scary 19 mile drive to the top, following a very slow winding route on both sealed and unsealed roads at the edge of precipitous drops (wonderful word, 'precipitous' - I remember Auntie Eileen teaching a toddling Katye to say it...). This is the mountain which inspired the writing of "America The Beautiful"; I can see why. I felt distinctly wobbly from the altitude, however, so quickly descended, noting the signs saying "Warning - hot brakes fail". Oooh-er.

The third picture (out of sequence, but beyond me to remedy in a short time) is in Oklahoma City - a lovely park in which I sat and watched families enjoying a Sunday stroll. I found the city very difficult to navigate, entering interstate highways by mistake; on escaping these I stumbled across residential areas, then wide roads with nothing but car sales ... When I DID find the centre it was very pleasant ("Oklahoma City is oh so pretty") with a canal reminiscent of, but on a much smaller scale than, San Antonio's; lined with eateries and masses of flowers.

Fourth picture is Garden of the Gods, in Manitou Springs, Colorado. This was another of those places which make you gasp in wonder. I had lunch with a lady who moved to the area 40 years ago and visits the park every day - she entertained me for a couple of hours with stories of her upbringing on her daddy's farm, and tales of the wildlife she encounters daily - including a mountain lion on one occasion. Such encounters are the essence of this trip... (with the lady, not the cougar!).

The final picture shows the skiing slopes of the Rockies, seen from a mountain pass while driving through. In between marvelling at and exploring the ever-changing scenery, I'm enjoying the road trip. At times the road stretches out ahead and behind, and either side there are flat fields to the horizon, miles away; I'm not tired of this - the cruise control is set so that I don't inadvertently stray over the speed limit, and the radio can generally pick up a local station ("You Look Good in My Shirt" is the current favourite; I'll sing it to you on my return if you're really unlucky). If I'm out of range, I fall back on my 2 charity shop CDs: live performances of tunes such as "Sweet Home Alabama"; or the soundtrack of "West Side Story" - I have tissues handy so as not to blur my vision...

Travelling here is very different from my travels 'Down Under'. There are few hostels, so I'm staying in motels mostly. It is great to have the privacy of my own bedroom and bathroom, but I do miss having other people around. I found a great hostel in Breckenridge, a ski resort, run by an English couple who facilitate socialising between guests by serving breakfast at a big table. I met some lovely people of all ages - all Americans, with their own story to tell. My life has been so different from theirs! It is fascinating particularly to meet people who were brought up on massive ranches. What a contrast from my London roots! It is emphasising the thought that after 30 years of sitting at a desk, I want to do something less structured on my return. This has been a sort of trial retirement for me and I'm really looking forward to that period when you're not ruled by the 9-5 clock...

Manitou Springs has a charming village feel. It was full of shops with floaty, hippy, but currently fashionable clothes. On my first evening there was a concert on the lawn in front of the library, with locals gathering on rugs, chatting and lying back, relaxing. The second afternoon there was the weekly craft fair and farmers'market, with a band playing. I saw an advertisement for the "Pie Baking Contest and Ice Cream Social". Wonderful! I want to live somewhere that does this kind of thing... Midsomer perhaps?! No, too dangerous!

I haven't done so much walking this week - I was warned not to hike in Garden of the Gods as it was 115 degrees in the lower places. So I'm driving on, trying not to fall into the trap of sticking to the interstate highways - they leave you in a kind of Limbo where there's nothing real - just motels and fast food outlets. Even if you drive off at an exit with a town's name, you sometimes find that this is just a gas station and wrecker's yard. I have been lucky this time and found an albeit rundown, town with a library and hopefully a mailbox - your latest postcard is on the dashboard, Emma.

Heading for another National Park on the South-East edge of Oklahoma - hopefully with walkable temperatures. Until then...

Awe-Inspiring and Stunningly Beautiful

2008-06-22T18:05:00.001+01:00

That's Utah and Colorado... My decision to travel by car has been a good one - I'm enjoying the freedom to wander at will, and am finding the most wonderful places to visit. The first couple of days were uneventful - driving about 700 miles east, just revelling in the luxury of my upgraded car (the rental company had no economy jobs left at my pickup time; I had to wait an hour, so they compensated me with a Pontiac G6 at economy price, and gave me an extra 10% discount plus an energy bar!) and a radio, auto transmission and air con. My road trip was underway! My first real stop was in a small town just east of Las Vegas. I hadn't bothered to stop in Las Vegas as I'd been there before, and anyway I got lost (again), so decided to carry on. I stayed for the night in a small town called Mesquite, in Nevada. I found a hotel with a casino attached - or was it a casino with a hotel attached? They rent the rooms at a very cheap rate, hoping you'll spend lots at the tables and gaming machines. WRONG! I just took advantage of the cheap drinks, swam in the pool, and enjoyed a luxurious night. Then on the next day to Zion National Park in Utah. The temperature now was over 100 degrees, but I decided to do a hike in the park up the Emerald Pools trail - a rocky walk to three waterfalls at varying heights - I had a lovely paddle in the top one. I was really exhilarated - wanted to blog instantly as I walked, to share with you all the sheer excitement I was feeling. The scenery is breath-taking - sheer walls of rock-face, with the Virgin River meandering between. I felt so good - exercise, hot sunshine, truly awesome scenery plus ice-cream (eventually!). All this followed by a trip to the theatre (only just made it - had forgotten to adjust my watch for 'mountain time') to watch 3 guys playing cowboy songs. An experience, is all I'm saying about that!
I travelled on to Bryce Canyon (pic 1), still in Utah - very different, but equally inspiring - not really a canyon, more an amphitheatre filled with rock formations call 'hoodoos' - huge columns of rock. I did a hike labelled 'strenuous' - 'steep grades with multiple elevation changes' - i.e. lots of ups and downs, but done in zig-zags, so manageable. Very hot, though, and high elevation, so literally breath-taking. A photo opportunity around every corner. I could bore you all for DAYS with a slide-show! It was a perfect day, topped off by the news from home that #1 son (ok, only son) Alex is now a BSc(Hons) with a 2:1 in Professional Broadcasting Techniques. Congratulations Al - I'm a very proud mum, and had to tell someone, so told a complete stranger, who immediately hugged me!
The driving in Utah is wonderful - I chose the scenic route, and it certainly lives up to its name. My next stop was at Arches National Park (you guessed, pic 2) - more formations as described in the name. I did several small walks here rather than one 'biggie' - was feeling a bit tired and overheated, so decided to take the easy trails for once.
Having thought at Zion that I'd never want to leave Utah and the Canyonlands, I was now a bit 'canyoned out', and ready to move on. So I drove to Colorado, and the surroundings changed from the huge rocky mountains, past huge plains, to greener fields. At this point I was stuck in my first traffic jam - caused by a combination of roadworks and a spilled load. We were stationary for nearly an hour, with the temperature at 85. Unaccustomed as I am to such situations, I didn't know whether I should leave the engine running for the a/c, or just the ignition, or just sweat it out... But eventually we got going again and an array of snow-capped mountains appeared before me.
I drove into Crested Butte, a ski village in winter and a hiking and biking centre in summer; that's where I am now. The mountains remind me of Austria - they are really beautiful. I took a shuttle bus yesterday into a small village 3 miles further on, called Mt Crested Butte. There I jumped onto a chair lift and travelled up almost to the top of the mountain - 12,000ft elevation. It was chilly enough for me to don my 'hoodie' for a while as I walked gently down a ski slope (pic 3) - now a gravel path, pausing frequently to drink water, take photos, gasp at the view, chat to fellow hikers and avoid the bikes. This weekend is 'fat tire (sic) weekend' - the mountain was teeming with downhill mountain bike racers. They come past you with no warning - it's quite scary at times. They also have to go over some jumps - I saw some come a-cropper, but no serious injuries, fortunately. In my usual fashion I got lost at one point and had to retrace my steps uphill. This made me realise why I'd been advised to get the chairlift up and walk down - uphill was hard work in the altitude, and I eventually decided, discretion being the better part of valour, and as I was running short of water (4 bottles consumed), to take the easy way - and leapt onto a passing chairlift going down.
So, in the past week - has it really been only a week? - I have enjoyed wonderful driving, breath-taking views, great exercise and luxurious accommodation. Last night I decided, having done some sums, that I must revert to hostel lodgings. My luck held - the hostel here is very pleasant, and I had my 4-bed dorm to myself. A single for the price of a dorm, with the bonus of people to chat to in the lounge - I had breakfast with a couple of teachers from Kansas City; very interesting to compare lifestyles. They showed me the paintings she had done yesterday after visiting the mountains. Such a personal reminder, as compared with my photos which don't quite capture the majesty of it all...
So, if you ever come to the West Coast of the USA, I urge you not to miss southern Utah and Colorado. I have been amazed and delighted at everything - to think I only came here for the fast food, and I haven't even mentioned it! Hoorah for American breakfasts, bottomless drinks, iced water, clam chowder and salad with croutons and blue cheese dressing!
Heading east again tomorrow to Leadville - 2 miles high, I'm told - guess that's more snow and sunshine - sigh, how shall I cope?! Cheers for now!

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Flowers in my hair?

2008-06-15T05:19:00.000+01:00

Wow, I'd forgotten what a fab city San Francisco is! So much to do, so many lovely places to visit. This is the place to get fit - the movies don't lie - the streets are all ups and downs, and I think I've walked most of them in the last 4 days!
My heart sank when I arrived, as my hostel is not the best, despite a 90% rating on the net. They must have paid people to write good reviews! On the first night, the ceiling in the lounge collapsed, narrowly missing my Aussie 'roomy' Carol.I was the only one to enquire whether she was ok. Maybe if the staff showed concern they would be admitting liability? Then Carol's transformer melted in the wall socket. This will be checked 'in a few days'. We have contingency plans in place in case we catch fire in the night... Ah, the joys of travelling! The up-side of all this was the friendship with Carol - we teamed up with Canadian Sophia and hit the town one evening, going to the famous Starlight bar. We felt rather conspicuous in our scruffs, but the staff were as courteous to us as to those dripping with expensive jewelry! Last night we went to the theatre to see 'Tis Pity She's a Whore' by John Ford. Very bloody at the end - luckily I was up in the gods, but still had to look away...
The first picture is Crookedest Street- very pretty, but quite a climb to get up to it (unless unlike me you are sensible enough to take a bus/streetcar). The second, of course is the famous cable car. The guy behind me in the queue wanted to pay for my ticket... Earlier that day, I had gone up to hippy paradise Haight-Ashbury. On the bus, a guy started to advise me about which shops I should go in. He then told me not to buy drugs on the street, as they are poor quality. He patted his pocket, and asked me what drugs I would like. I told him I got my highs without the aid of drugs... he and another guy then proceeded to tell me how to avoid paying on the buses and cable cars. I know I'm not looking very smart (understatement) at the moment - but do I really look that destitute?
My favourite food so far (I love American food) has been clam chowder, served in a huge round sourdough bread bowl. You drink the soup, then eat the bowl and the lid. Yummy!
The weather has been typical San Francisco - a heatwave for the first couple of days, then chilly enough to warrant buying a new 'hoodie'. Today I had both climates - I rented a bike and cycled over the mist-shrouded Golden Gate bridge, battling against the wind - at one point I thought I might start going backwards - but when I reached Sausalito it was really hot, and I sat in t-shirt and shorts enjoying a sandwich and 'chips' at a sidewalk cafe, overlooking the sea. I ended up cycling 16 miles; not much for you regular cyclists, but a good distance for an amateur such as myself. I then took the ferry back and walked up millions (ok, hundreds) of steps to the Coit Tower - the patroness apparently liked firemen (can't think why...!) so the tower is a tall column looking like a fireman's hose. You get a very good view from the top, anyway.
While I was here in San Francisco I took the opportunity to look up my late friend Martha's family, who live in Berkeley - only 30 minutes on the train. Martha's mother met me from the train and took me to their house, where I had a lovely day with her and with her sister, who is a very lively 91-year-old. I very much enjoyed meeting them and seeing Martha's roots - they are very artistic, and have a house full of beautiful things, mostly made by members of the family. Quite apart from their relationship with Martha, making it a poignant occasion, it was also interesting to meet a real Californian family, and get their viewpoint on various issues, including US politics!
I haven't seen everything in San Francisco by a long way, and this is my third visit here, but I'm leaving enough to make a return visit sometime worthwhile.
I'm setting off tomorrow on my road trip, having investigated and rejected the Greyhound bus and the Amtrak train. Sarah (my sister-out-law) and Randy have pinpointed some places I should visit on my way, and hopefully will join me at some point. I'm aiming for Richmond, Va, to visit my friend Ros, from Louisville days; that's 3000 miles from here, were I to go without detour. Then on to New York.
So tomorrow I head East. Haven't quite worked out the finer details yet, but I guess if I point the car in the right direction, and remember to stick to the right hand side of the road, all should be well.

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G'bye Australia

2008-06-09T01:35:00.000+01:00

I couldn't leave without updating you on my last few days here, which have included some real highlights of the trip. I've been pleasantly surprised at how much I've enjoyed the Oz part of my journey - I wasn't sure about it beforehand, as regular readers will know. The friendly nature of the Aussies has been a feature - I only have to open a map and pause for a moment, and someone is there offering advice. In the main, shop assistants and cafe staff have been helpful and chatty - one even invited me to her home - unfortunately my onward travel was already booked, so I couldn't take her up on it. The different landscapes have been truly 'awesome' in places; pretty sometimes; always interesting - even long stretches of road with seemingly endless fields of sugar cane are interesting to an English city girl accustomed to traffic and houses all the way...
Coffs Harbour, my last stop on the journey down the east coast to Sydney, was a lovely place. I arrived in the rain, to find one of the best hostels awaiting me. Maybe because there were not many people; but it was very well appointed - lots of space, friendly staff, and clean bathrooms and kitchens. Makes a difference to a long-term traveller! I ventured out, forgetting to change out of my jeans - mistake! I generally wear them when travelling, as they are lighter to wear than carry. But walking in them in the rain is a no-no. It takes SO long to dry out denim! Never mind, it was worth it, as I walked along the jetty and sampled the local ice-cream. Next morning I sensibly wore my other trousers. This time though, it was sunny and dry. I walked along the beach, looking out at nearby islands and the sun rippling on the waves - bliss. I then wandered along the jetty by the harbour towards Muttonbird Island, laughing merrily at a sign which said to beware of waves breaking over the rocks. Yes, you guessed, I was hit by a freak wave which completely soaked me - I was dripping from hair to trainers... so back to the hostel for a shower and unpack and change before getting on the Greyhound bus, carrying an extra plastic bag full of very heavy wet clothes... So goodbye to Coffs Harbour, but I'd like to think I might return some day.
And so to Sydney again. Saturday was an unexpectedly sunny day, so Fenella and I mooched around some lovely crafty shops and enjoyed a hot drink in a cafe, before going to the cinema to see 'Sex and the City'. It was a treat on three counts - one, the film was great; two, I had company; three, we both enjoyed it equally - it was lovely to be on a 'girly' outing again!
Yesterday I got up to pouring rain again - this on the day Nick and I were booked to go to the Blue Mountains with his bush-walking group. Undaunted we set out, driving for a couple of hours to a lovely place called Wentworth Falls. This was one of the wettest walks I've ever done! Through oceans of mud, up and down steep rocky steps. This walk alone justified the burdensome carrying of my walking boots around the world! I was very smug to be one of the few people with warm dry feet right to the end. BUT it was the most beautiful place to visit. I can't begin to describe the waterfalls we walked alongside, they were spectacular; the sheer force of the water was breathtaking - some very high sheer drops; some gentle slopes with the water rushing over the rocks. All in a fine mist, which although it masked some of the views, actually added an air of mystery to the surroundings. A walk that I shall always remember with pleasure.
Today is the queen's birthday - I'm sure you knew that? At least, today is the day the Aussies give themselves a day off work in her honour! Sounds a good idea to me... so Happy Bithday, Ma'am - I'll think of you as I pack for my onward flights tomorrow. Thanks, Oz, it's been great - look out USA, here I come...

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Breezy Brizzy

2008-06-02T07:25:00.000+01:00

Hello from rain-drenched Byron Bay. Big storms on the east coast this week and I've copped 'em. Never mind, I had a couple of dry-ish but windy days in Brisbane. Loved it! Lots of green areas, especially down by the river. It's a big city, with:- craft markets; walkways, some floating on the river itself; interesting art - modern and sculpture; the city cat (water taxi which doubles as a cruise for visitors). On Sunday I was wandering through the flower-wreathed arbour walkway (pic 1) when I caught the sound of a piano - a brilliant young player at a sponsored event in a covered but open-access arena. I sat and listened until sadly he was replaced by a screeching soprano and I beat a hasty retreat. I bumped into lots of Aussies in gold and green shirts - I thought I was back in Bangkok on the King's birthday; but no, it was the World Cup qualifier against Iraq. Luckily the 'Socceroos' won, so there was a happy atmosphere in the city that evening. I stopped in a bar and had a Sunday dinner - including bread and butter pudding and custard. Yum! Then I went to the cinema (film 16 of my trip, I think!). Very rash of me to go on a Sunday - had to pay full price. Should have waited for 'tight-arse' (can I say that?) Tuesday when it's much cheaper - that seems to apply nationwide. Saw 'The Painted Veil' - very good, but I came out crying...
So I'm making my way south - had a lovely couple of days in the Whitsundays, island hopping, then down through Rockhampton, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn again; Maryborough (off the backpacker trail with really nice 'heritage' area by the river); Brisbane (Brizzy to us in the know); and now Byron Bay. I've just walked to the most easterly part of Oz, (pic 2) and got soaked in the process. I'm in a nice hostel, though, so will have a cosy evening drinking hot choc and reading in the lounge. On tomorrow to Coffs Harbour. I guess that will be another water-sporty place, but hopefully it'll dry up enough for me to have a wander by the beach. Then Sydney, and the enticing prospect of a few days of good company and comfort back with Nick and Fenella. Hoorah!

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Creature from the Deep

2008-05-21T10:18:00.000+01:00

Well, not very deep, actually! This is me togged up ready to go snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. Yes, I've reached the Eastern coast of Australia; I'm in Cairns. This is tourist city - reminiscent of Queenstown in New Zealand, in that every other shop is an activity centre, exhorting you to go on this trip or that... I've spent three days on organised tours - the first being in three parts: a 7km cable-car ride skimming tropical rainforest to a village nestling in the trees, with a VERY tempting zoo (2nd pic) which I managed to resist(!); a visit to an aboriginal cultural park - both interesting and fun, I now know about their 'Dreamtime' stories, how to make naturally toxic fruit edible (don't try this at home), how to make and play a didgeridoo, and, despite detailed instructions, am rubbish at throwing a boomerang - it nosedives into the ground every time; and back on a scenic train ride. The next day I set sail on a catamaran with 84 others, comprising mainly blonde skinny twenty-year-olds (hate 'em!). The experience of snorkeling on the Reef was quite amazing as you might imagine - the colours of the coral and the close proximity of the fish were out of this world. I loved the sights, but not the snorkel - not my 'thing', I'm afraid. So I've ticked that off my list, and don't need to do it again! After a day 'off', mooching around Cairns, I embarked on a 4WD trip north to Cape Tribulation. This included another boat cruise looking for crocodiles. Our guide on this occasion kindly manoeuvred the boat close to the bank to point out a 'lovely, big' tree snake. He told us that he would bring it aboard so that we could all drape it around ourselves. I was preparing to abandon ship in favour of swimming with the crocs when he laughed at his little joke. What a wheeze, I was very amused...
Today I've taken a bus trip a few kms north of Cairns to a beach resort called Trinity Beach (pictured). This is a bit upmarket, so I met some people my age for a change, and enjoyed some lovely chats. There is no swimming in the sea at the moment, because of the 'stingers' - jellyfish who can inflict such damage that you are either in agony for 12 days, or you die, apparently. There are containers of vinegar on the beaches as a first aid measure, although the recommended first treatment is to get a friend to pee on you. Guess I'm in trouble there! So they have an area in the sea enclosed by nets, within which you can safely bathe. It was a lovely hot day, so I strolled on the sand, out of reach of poisonous tentacles, sunbathed a bit and swam. It felt like I was on holiday!! It seems strange that people can only swim in the sea in winter here. Summer = bad (too hot and humid, too many crocs and stingers); winter = good. Very odd.
I'm meeting more Aussies here - people come up from Sydney and Melbourne to get away from the cold weather. Their speech reminds me curiously of the Guernsey lingo - they end every sentence with 'eh' for emphasis. Also a bit like the Irish 'so you will' or 'so it is' e.g. "you'll need a ticket, eh (so you will)" or "it's a lovely day, eh". Please excuse my muddled uses of ' and " - my brain's taking a break...
So I've enjoyed Cairns, but it's time to move on. I'm hoping it will stay warm for my next few days, but as I head towards Sydney the thermometer will drop. But looking on the bright side, this will make my departure from Oz less sad as I head for the sunny skies of the USA in June... Cheers for now!

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Gone troppo in the Top End

2008-05-15T07:33:00.001+01:00

Wow! Thanks guys for all your texts, facebook messages and ecards for my birthday - I'm quite overwhelmed... I feel as if I've been at a party with you all! I will get around to thanking y'all, but it may take a few days! I had wondered how it would be, so far away from home; as anyone who knows me will testify, I'm a kid where birthdays are concerned, they are SO EXCITING! So after having great chats with first my father and then (number one son) Alex I treated myself to an American-style breakfast of pancakes with bacon, berries, cream and maple syrup. Yum! Then after reading some of your messages I had a very steamy walk to Darwin museum. It was hot and humid and I ran out of water halfway - not good; but eventually I found a 'Ski Club' by the beach??? I guess water-skiing - and was allowed in as a visitor. As a private club, the drinks were cheap, hoorah! The museum was QI - quite interesting; lots of info on cyclone Tracy which destroyed Darwin on Christmas Day 1974 - I don't remember that? Was it too far away to be considered newsworthy, or was I too busy having a good time to watch the news? Also stuff about the city's bombing by the Japanese in WW2. I didn't know about that either. I felt humbled by my ignorance... But hey, not going to beat myself up about it - I hopped on a bus with a cheery driver and made my way to the nearest Baskin Robbins for an ice cream sundae. I cunningly 'let slip' that it was my birthday and the very friendly assistant piled extra ice cream (3 scoops - cookies n cream, hokey pokey and 'passion' - berries and white chocolate) on my bananas, under a mound of cream and chocolate sauce. First picture is of me halfway through it!! I rounded off my day by chatting with (number one daughter) Katye, then meeting up with some of the gang from my outback tours, and going to the 'deckchair cinema' with them. This was a unique experience - rows of deckchairs attached in rows before a huge screen in the open air. We sat in the front row with a stretch of grass between us and the screen. Halfway through the film we saw a creature running across in front of us - a possum or maybe a desert rat - we weren't sure. He came back a couple of times, and once I felt something brush over my feet... after this my attention was divided between George Clooney on the screen, and the ground in front of me - those slithery things were on my mind yet again. So a great day.
But when I last 'blogged' I was in Alice Springs, and I've had some great adventures since then. I rejoined my 14-day tour, with some of the same people and some new ones, and we progressed North to Darwin (the Top End), taking three days. This tour was mainly transit - we covered 1500kms in three days, stopping off in a few spots for sightseeing, stretching of legs and swimming. We crossed into the Tropic of Capricorn with great ceremony - there's a line drawn across the road that everyone had to photograph. We stopped one day at a lovely reservoir where some people swam, but I got chatting to some aboriginal 'Warramundi' ladies who told me they were on a "girls' day out". I was very pleased to have a conversation with them, as I must admit I'd felt a bit wary of approaching them in Alice, as they tended to group together, and I wasn't sure how welcoming they would be to tourists. We had a laugh together about them leaving their husbands in town working for the day while they had a fun-filled picnic. The last place before Darwin was Katherine Gorge, known in Aboriginal as Nitmiluk. Occurs to me that if we were in Oz we'd have to call Katye 'Nit' for short. Hmmmm.
After an overnight stop in Darwin (less than 12 hours there) we set off for the last 3 days of the tour. This took us to Litchfield National Park, where we went on a cruise to see the 'jumping crocodiles' - picture 2. I wasn't sure about this - it was great to see the crocs - they are salt-water ones, big and dangerous normally, but these ones appeared sleepy and over-fed - it seemed as though the crew were teasing them, as they didn't always let them have the meat, making them jump several times then withdrawing the meat. In the wet season which has just ended, the crocs get into all the waterholes, so it isn't safe to swim. Once the water subsides, rangers check the pools for safety. Fresh water crocs are ok, though - they don't attack humans, apparently. Not sure I want to meet one while bathing, though. As you can see, I got my bikini wet a couple of times - we went on to Kakadu (du du) National Park, which is vast - twice the size of the Netherlands. Here we saw examples of aboriginal rock art from different eras up to fairly recent times; scrambled up steep rocky cliffs to watch a magnificent sunset; bathed in pools between a series of waterfalls, ending in a sheer drop. It was a wonderful experience, so beautiful. Some of the wimpy youngsters thought the water was cold - they haven't swum off Herm in the Channel Islands!!
I'm very glad I did the tours - we saw places you certainly wouldn't get to on an expensive coach trip. But I'm also quite happy to be back in hostels. The trips were fun, but we did rough it a little - the camping was surprisingly chilly at times; the food was tasty, (we all helped prepare it, I've picked up some tips on mass-catering!), but it was advisable not to look too closely at the washing-up for 20+ people in one bowl of cold dirty greasy water and drying up with wet dirty cloths! Also most of the time (apart from the last day, thanks to our great driver/tour leader Kate) when on the bus our ears were assaulted by VERY loud music blasting over the sound system. I like loud music; I go to pubs expressly to listen to it at home - but this was excessive. No chance of hearing your own ipod. The amazing thing is that the people for whom it was played usually managed to sleep through it all! But that's a small gripe, and I met some lovely people and saw some wonderful sights.
This morning my alarm went off at 2am and I jumped on the airport shuttle for my flight to Cairns. When I got here - shock, horror, it's raining and only 26 degrees.. I want to go back to Darwin!! The forecast improves on Sunday, so I guess I'll stick around a bit, spend the next couple of days relaxing and catching up with emails, and maybe go snorkeling on Sunday. Or on a train to the rainforest. Ah, decisions! It's a tough life.
G'bye f'now!

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Feral Tucker in the Outback

2008-05-06T03:19:00.000+01:00

G'day mates! Here I am in Alice Springs, in the Red Centre of Australia, in the middle of a BIG ADVENTURE! I had become a bit lazy, going from city to city, walking in botanical gardens, sitting in town squares, so it was time to shake myself up a bit, so I booked a 14-day 'adventure tour' from Adelaide (more or less in the middle of the south coast) up the centre to Darwin (more or less in the middle of the north coast). I have done the first six days, and they have been wonderful. I was pretty scared at first, bearing in mind my already much documented phobia about snakes, but I 'felt the fear and did it anyway'! I was in a group of 20 travellers, mostly very young, with an excellent driver/guide. I rode 'shotgun' with him a couple of times and he told me of his upbringing in the outback and as a jackaroo - really interesting to meet the 'real thing'. The group was very lively and engaging - I felt a real buzz being with them, apart from one morning at about 2am when I'd rather have slept than listened to them a-whoopin' and a-hollerin'!! We've driven about 3000 kms to include various places off the beaten track, getting up before dawn most mornings, maybe watching the sun come up somewhere, driving, walking, cooking over roadside BBQs. You don't have to be too finicky on these trips - washing up in filthy, cold water; drying the dishes on wet, filthy towels. Amazingly, we all resisted the bugs. Maybe we worry too much about cleanliness in everyday life? We stayed in a couple of hostels, one in a town with population 6; one underground in an opal mine, and camped out a couple of times. Most people slept in 'swags' - canvas bags containing a mattress and sleeping bag, out on the ground, looking up at the stars. I'm sorry to say I chickened out, not wanting to lie awake waiting for a slithery sound..., so I opted for a basic tent instead. So far, so good; 6 days down, no snakes yet... (no big spiders, either, in case you're wondering).
The highlights of the trip have been Uluru (Ayers Rock) at sunset and sunrise, of course; and Kings Canyon (second picture). The latter was even better than Uluru, I thought - the canyon is surrounded by a vast area of rocks shaped like igloos; there are (small) waterholes in the centre, and lush vegetation (the 'garden of Eden'). We did a 3+ hour walk over rocky terrain - not too difficult, but enough to stretch the legs a bit. We walked in the Olgas, which from a distance look like Homer Simpson lying down (really!).
We've seen a fair bit of wildlife - the kangaroos were actually eating out of our hands. There are also smaller 'roos called euros, and lots of emus. We've heard dingoes (wild dogs), howling at night and early morning, some quite close to the campsite, but haven't seen any yet in the wild. We've eaten Kangaroo steak (tastes a bit like liver); emu burgers and camel sausages. All very tasty.
Our driver had ways of keeping us amused on the long journeys of several hours at a time. We were given felt-tip pens to draw on the windows (brilliant, why didn't I think of that when the children were young?), so there were games of noughts and crosses, hangman, boxes, going on plus some maps of people's home countries and great artwork; we did quizzes, we passed cheesy rings up and down the bus using straws but no hands, Loads of fun. We waved at the 'grey nomads' - retired people who buy a campervan and travel - I know some at home?! We listened to 3 versions of 'Waltzing Matilda', and sang a jolly ditty entitled "G'day g'day" at ;least once a day. Loadsa fun.
We arrived in Alice last night - tired and very grubby. Everything is covered in red dust - the backpack is full of it, so washing clothes hasn't totally solved the problem. My convertible pants still have red stains after a run through the washer - a souvenir, I guess; proves I was there.
I have today and tomorrow here to sort my gear, relax a bit and contact y'all - thanks for all your messages once again, I love to hear what you're up to. Hope you all had a good Bank Holiday weekend, wherever you were. I told my new friends about Haddenham and Rochester morris weekends. They were pretty bemused, I think. I drew a picture of a morris dancer on the window of the bus, but they weren't impressed!!
So, I go on this Thursday to Darwin. More camping and cooking and exploring. I'm getting good at stamping my feet and singing loudly while walking through the bush. "they are more afraid of you..." I don't think so!!
Cheers, mates!

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Koalas, kangaroos and medals

2008-04-27T08:56:00.000+01:00

I've left the Victorians behind now - just couldn't get used to it when they referred to 'Victorian Police' or 'Victorian buildings'. I was looking for vintage items, forgetting I was in the state of Victoria. Now everything is marked 'SA' which in my head is South Africa, but of course is South Australia. Oh dear...
After another arresting experience - I went on a tour of the old gaol in Melbourne, where you are locked up and subjected to a taste of the old procedures - I hurriedly left and embarked (on St George's Day - I wore my 'Barmy Army' cap all day, of course!) on a 3-day trip along the Great Ocean Road towards Adelaide. This is a bit of a misnomer, as only about a third of the road is actually beside the ocean. It was a particularly calm day when we travelled the 'surf coast', so we had to imagine the waves and surfers! But the day was made by a trip into an area of eucalyptus trees, where we saw several koalas in the wild (confession - the 3rd photo is actually a cheat, taken in a koala park near Sydney). We were able to get up quite close, although the koalas stayed up in the trees. After a night in a pretty basic hostel in Apollo Bay, a quiet but pretty seaside town, we were picked up by another driver. He proved to be a stereotypical Aussie guy - racist, sexist - referring to his passengers as e.g. 'those Swedish sheilas' and making jokes about mean Scots etc, interspersed with political jibes. Or maybe I just don't share his sense of humour... Never mind, we decided to ignore him, and enjoyed the day, with a trip down to see the truly awesome twelve apostles - see second picture. They are crumbling as we speak, and are a wonderful sight, especially in the late afternoon sunshine. We then visited 'London Bridge' - a formation which partially collapsed a couple of years ago, leaving a couple stranded on the island formed from the broken arch. The story goes that they were reluctant to be interviewed by the eager tv crews when rescued - they were married, but not to each other...
We also caught sight of lots of kangaroos running about wild near the road - in fact we almost ran one over, they are so tame...
On next day to the Grampians, where the first picture was taken. We had a great walk up to the Pinnacles - huge rock formations. It was the sort of walk I really enjoy - lots of scrambling over rocks, and steep gradients. We were then picked up again by our day one driver, who proved to be very helpful - I had booked a hostel in Adelaide, but when we arrived he said to me 'It's very noisy - not your sort of place, I'd go to the YHA if I were you'. This turned out to be an excellent piece of advice - the original one has a bad reputation, and the YHA is the best hostel here so far - huge clean kitchen, plenty of places to sit and read quietly or watch tv, crisp clean cotton sheets like we had when I was a child - fresh from the laundry. Bliss.
My customary luck held when I arrived in Adelaide - I strolled down the road to get some milk and discovered a huge party in the street. Of course, Anzac Day! This is a huge event, commemorating the courage and staying power of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps who landed in Gallipoli in the First World War. In every city they have a dawn service and a big parade. I had stumbled across the ensuing street party - live bands, beer tents, hot dog stands. Lots of people in uniform, young and old, all sporting their own medals on their left breast, their family medals (parents', grandparents') on their right. I chatted for a while to an ex-serviceman who told me all about it, and said that on this day (a public holiday) everyone is particularly friendly and courteous to strangers in the street - it's a great atmosphere. Interesting in the light of current discussions in the UK papers about whether enough respect is shown to people in service uniforms, irrespective of whether one approves of current overseas military actions. I felt honour bound to raise a can (yes, a can - strange) of Smirnoff Ice to them, and to bop along with the music. Rude not to, I thought...
Adelaide is known as the city of churches, but I haven't noticed their presence any more than ini any other city. It's not a place you think 'I must go to Adelaide and see the...', but nevertheless, it has enough interesting places to keep a traveller here for a few days. Today I've been a few kms out of the city to Brighton on the tram, walking from there through Hove to Glenelg. It was a bit like being in Sussex, really, a bit chilly with showers!
I have been feeling the lack of company my age recently - the 3-day tour was full of teens and twenty-somethings; so I was amused to see on entering the kitchen this morning (Sunday) at about 8.15 that everyone else there - about 10 people - was, shall we say, 'mature'. I don't think 8 in the morning exists if you're under thirty and have no children! I had a nice chat with an English couple resident in NZ, before going back to my room after 9am and trying to find my toothbrush etc without waking my 'roomies'. The joys of shared living!
Off to the 'Red Centre' - Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru) next - watch this space.

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Melbourne - sporting capital

2008-04-20T09:35:00.000+01:00

Hello from Melbourne! Many people recommended coming here, but couldn't really say why. Well, it's a lovely place to be. Lots of parks; modern, spacious squares; tall buildings to see from (88th floor of the Eureka Sky Tower a must!); sculptures in the streets; lots going on. The first day I was here there was a police band playing jazz in Federation Square - a little like the Triangle in Manchester - big area with steps for seating, and a large video screen. I was in heaven - men in uniform, playing saxophones - what more could a girl want (I chatted to one of them at the break, but didn't get a chance to test his embouchere...). The next day there was another band playing afro-jazz as an introduction to the jazz fringe festival just starting. Yesterday there was a show of Omani culture - lots of craft stalls and some music and strange but interesting dancing. All this in unseasonably warm weather - it is the equivalent of October here, but after a mediocre summer in Oz it is currently sunny. I take full credit for bringing good weather - it has accompanied me around the world pretty much all of the time so far...
I haven't spent all my time in the Square, though - on my first day I was given 5 booklets of walks around the city, of which I've done 3 so far. The first day I explored the little backstreets - lots of tiny cafes and very expensive clothes shops. The second day I walked by the river to the sports area - they are sports-mad here. There are several arenas, the major one being the MCG - Melbourne Cricket Ground. I did a tour here, standing on the grass; visiting the players' viewing rooms and their dressing rooms (bit stinky - the smell of stale male sweat lingers!); and the Long Room - not quite Lords, but not a bad imitation! Our tour guide was a Member - he and the others I met when looking around the new Sports Museum later were so enthusiastic. In the end I gave up asking questions as I felt I might be there for the rest of my year...
They don't just play cricket there - it also hosts Aussie Rules Football. The hunky young Dutchman who's sleeping on top of me in the dorm says I should go to a game even if I don't understand the rules - the atmosphere is magic, he says. But he hasn't offered to escort and enlighten me, so I think I'll save my dollars. As warned, Australia is proving more expensive than New Zealand. The NZ dollar is about 2.5 to the pound, whereas the Aus dollar is approx 2 to the pound. But you have to pay the same number of Aus dollars or more for the same goods or services.
Today I'm feeling very laid-back and unstressed (of course, what's to stress me?!). I've walked the 5 or 6 kms directly south to St Kilda beach via Albert Park which has a large lake with birds and boats to watch. I've walked to the end of the pier, and sat in the sun eating a chicken and avocado salad (why don't we use avocado more - it's fab in a salad!); I've lazed on the beach watching children build sandcastles. The lifestyle here is definitely enviable.
I've neglected to mention firstly the storm we witnessed on my last full day in Sydney - thunder and lightning over the harbour bridge, forcing the climbers to retreat - glad I wasn't climbing that day. Secondly, I've completely missed out a description of Canberra, where I stayed a couple of days before I got here (3.5 coach hours from Sydney, 8.5 hours from Melbourne; very long trip enlivened by chatting to 83-year-old Canberra resident) - Canberra is the capital city, chosen when just a tiny place because it is between the two contenders, Sydney and Melbourne. It was purpose-built and very well-designed. I did a city tour which included the new Parliament House. This made me realise that I've never visited the Houses of Parliament in London, which I must put right on my return...
Hope you like the contrast between the natural and unnatural in my photos - I'm told that a cow in a tree isn't too unlikely; it happens when flood waters subside sometimes! Enough - thanks for accompanying me on this part of my trip!

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For Martha

2008-04-10T07:54:00.001+01:00

I'd like to dedicate this blog to my friend Martha, who sadly lost her battle with cancer yesterday. She fought bravely and long, and was an inspiration to me. She made light of her illness wherever possible, finding something to smile at in most situations, and taking an interest in my comparatively trivial ups and downs. There will be a Martha-shaped space at our girls' nights out which will be impossible to fill. I was privileged to be her friend, and my condolences go out to Chris and to the rest of Martha's family.

Having expected to compare Australia unfavourably with New Zealand on all counts, I have to tell you that Sydney is stunning. I love it; there's so much to see and do, and the harbour takes your breath away. If you were to walk the whole perimeter of the harbour it would be as far as from Sydney to Melbourne, I'm told. I've covered about 3 kms so far - a long way to go yet!
I've really fallen on my feet with my accommodation here - 5 star luxury:- a double room with ensuite to myself; beautiful house and surroundings; delicious food (gourmet packed lunches included); and wonderful company to top it all. Yes, I'm staying with Nick and Fenella (pic 2, in paddy field)! They even 'guested' me onto a trip on Sunday with their local bushwalking group. I'm being really spoilt - think I'll stay a few months... no, it's ok N&F, I'll tear myself away soon!
I'll have to give you a quick taster of events since I arrived, otherwise this will be a marathon blog, but so far I have watched jazz in the park; bush walked in the Blue Mountain region; explored The Rocks heritage area underneath The Bridge; ascended the Sky Tower and done the 3D, 180 degree screen, strapped into a chair 'Oz Trek' which swoops you through canyons, down white water rivers and so on; explored Parramatta; travelled down the river on a river catamaran under the harbour bridge into Sydney; toured the Sydney Opera House and, the highlight so far, CLIMBED OVER SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE!
To expand a little on some of this - can I urge any of you who come to Sydney (even the atheists like myself) to make time to visit St Patrick's Cathedral in Parramatta - it has been rebuilt since being mostly destroyed by fire, and it is absolutely beautiful. Very simple, very modern. I don't know how to convey to you the peace I found there - truly a place to linger and meditate.
The river trip gave a different angle on the harbour - seeing the bridge from below before my climb emphasised the sheer size of it.
What lucky star was I born under I wonder - my tour of the Opera House was very special - when we entered the main concert hall, the Sydney Symphony Orchestra was rehearsing Brahms' 5th symphony (I know, Daddy, before you rush to your keyboard to correct me - Brahms only wrote four; this was of course the Schoenberg piece of homage). Then when we went into the Opera Theatre hall, one of the principal male dancers of the ballet company was in solo rehearsal being directed by the choreographer. He repeated one phrase several times, then launched into a fairly lengthy sequence - a modern take on the ballet Swan Lake. I'm not fond of classical ballet, but this was a blend of old and new; fascinating and wonderful to watch. We were so fortunate in our timing of the tour. Nick, Fenella and I are returning on Sunday afternoon to listen to a 'Steinway Spectacular' featuring 8 grand pianos - should be good!
So, in conclusion, I want to shout "I DID IT" and wear the t-shirt, as I achieved a long-held ambition to climb the harbour bridge. This is a 3.5 hour experience, and I enjoyed every minute. We were kitted out in jumpsuits, then the essential belt to which all sorts of stuff was attached so that it wouldn't drop off or get blown away: a radio receiver and headset; handkerchief to wipe sweaty brow or runny nose ; baseball cap to stop hair covering eyes; fleece in bag; rain jacket in bag; and finally the piece de resistance - a cable to attach oneself to a metal strip winding along our entire route. Once attached, we were committed - no going back! After instruction and a practice on some ladders in the waiting area, we were off. Firstly we negotiated a long flat part alongside the metal framework to the end of the arch. The the ladders began - one person at a time. The worst part was changing from the top of one ladder to the bottom of the next, at an angle to it, with trains and cars rattling along below. Having negotiated these ladders, we were ready to climb onto the arch. This is a fairly gradual climb (although the lady behind me didn't think so!) until, after a few stops for breathers; photographs taken by the guide (we weren't trusted to handle a camera and hold on at the same time - or maybe they like their monopoly!); and looks at the view - we were at the apex. Wow! what a fabulous view - twice as high as the Opera House. We saw a raincloud approaching and hastily donned jackets, but it veered away, and we were left with a magnificent sight... blue waters, the Opera House, ships, scyscrapers ... fabulous. Well worth it, I'm very glad I did it.
There's still much to do here - I've had a restful day today, and am planning a ferry trip tomorrow to touch the ocean...
Until the next time...

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Oops - did it again

2008-03-31T05:51:00.001+01:00

Who is it that keeps putting these lead weights in my right shoe before I start driving? Still, I DID get a very nice chat with a charming man in uniform... pity his company came at a price though!
My last few days in New Zealand - I shall be so sad to leave these shores. The past week has flown by, and I leave Auckland for Sydney in five days time.
I have spent this week travelling up the east coast from Napier, having got over the excitement of "the boys'" success on the field (We are the England, the Mighty Mighty England... and so on!). I've stayed in a variety of establishments on the way. The first was a very small backpackers' hostel - in fact it was a couple of rooms in a Maori family's house. A mother with two children; father away working, and pretty chaotic, really. But interesting - I chatted for a long time with the 7-year-old daughter, and we compared dancing styles - she pirouetted, I ranted/polka'd. Lots of laughs all round. Then in Gisborne (first city in the world to see each new day) I threw caution to the winds and lashed out $40 (16 pounds) a night on my first bed and breakfast place. The contrast couldn't have been more stark - this was run by a little, very genteel, elderly lady whose house was full of knick-knacks of the embroidered toilet roll cover variety. I was her only guest and we spent two evenings together, comparing books read by our respective book groups, watching ER on television, and discussing the recent earthquake, which shook all her ornaments and books off the shelves and scared her half to death, poor lady. Very companionable, and a totally different experience from every other evening spent in backpacker places. Sadly my next hostel was not good - in fact I had one of my worst nights so far, due unfortunately to the rowdy behaviour of a group of mainly English young girls and lads who are working in the area, and seemed to be competing to see who could make the most noise and drink the most alcohol. On the whole though, I must say I've been impressed by most of the travellers - they are, for the most part, considerate, and sharing sometimes 8 or 9 bed mixed dorms has been surprisingly quiet. But there are exceptions! Today I have come to a town called Tairua - about 150 kilometres south-east of Auckland, on the east coast. I have a bed (not bunk, hoorah!) in a six-bed dorm, and it seems like such a nice place that I may stay until Thursday, when I'm due in Auckland. This place advertises itself as 'suitable for the more mature traveller' - which means over 30, as far as I can see! I've already had good chats with 3 women staying here; I've walked to the top of the local volcano, which juts out of the sea giving fabulous views of the surrounding coastline; and walked along Ocean Beach - lovely name, good example of 'it does what it says on the tin'?
As Saturday approaches, I'm becoming more apprehensive about my trip to Australia, bearing in mind my not-so-mild hysteria on encountering a snake in Asia. Being reassured that 'I've only seen one, and that was in the shower block' (thanks Frank!) hasn't helped. I may be very smelly by the time I leave Australia (and constipated - someone else helpfully told me to check the toilet for snakes and spiders before I sit down...aaaaaaargh!). No bush walking for me, anyway; I shall definitely be sticking to the cities.
The second picture here is the view from where I'm sitting at this very moment - as you can see, the sun is not shining today - but it's not bad, all the same, is it?! That's the volcano I've just climbed, by the way.
OK, I'm off to cook my boil-in-the-bag venison - speak to you again soon - maybe from across the Tasman, if not before...

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Barmy Army in Napier

2008-03-25T06:24:00.000Z

Short blog as promised ... here I am supporting the boys - we are currently poised for victory - hope I don't jinx it by writing this!
It is apparently a kiwi tradition for the crowd to go and peer at the wicket during the lunch break. Not sure what they can glean from this, and can't imagine it catching on at Lords - shock, horror!
I've enjoyed the Barmy Army's community singing during the match, and the banter between the two sets of supporters has been gentle and witty in the main. It has been like a holiday for me - enforced sitting on the grass in the sunshine. Tough work, but someone has to be here to support the lads...

I've had a little free time to explore Napier - a unique town in that it was razed to the ground by an earthquake in 1931, and completely rebuilt in 2 years in art deco style. They were determined to make it a city of the times - and most of it is intact. They built 'tin city' - a temporary area containing shops and businesses while the town was reconstructed; this kept the town's finances healthy. I think of New Orleans and wonder whether they could have learned from this maybe?
I forgot to wish you all Happy Easter, by the way - it sort of passed me by, only really noticeable by the fact that the shops were shut on Friday and Monday. Hope you all enjoyed the break despite your snow (ha!). But just remember you are entering spring while I'm heading into autumn...
But just for now, I'm off for a hokey-pokey ice-cream, as it's still warm and light out there (7pm); and maybe a stroll along the beach...

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North Island Revisited

2008-03-20T05:27:00.000Z

Yes, I'm back 'up North', making my way in a leisurely fashion up to Auckland for my flight to Sydney at the beginning of April. I've returned to Tongariro National Park, where I did my truly awesome snowy walk in December. Yesterday I walked from the eastern edge of the park to the western end, a track that took me seven hours and led between the bases of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. Hard going at first across desert - very soft sand, tiring in walking boots; but then through bush with rivers running through (lots of sparkling water over rocks, fabulous) - up to mountain lakes - picture 2 - (nice climb to stretch my legs!), past waterfalls and through beech forest. Didn't meet a soul for the first three hours, then very few thereafter. But why is the last half mile always the toughest? When I rule the world I'll make it a law that all walks have to end going downhill... Was very tired by that stage; not as fit as I like to imagine I am!
Since I last wrote, I've met up with Frank (picture 1) and caught up with his travel tales and plans for his forthcoming nuptials - all very exciting, it was great seeing him. I've stayed in a women's hostel in Christchurch, which was a bit like being back at my all girls' school, but very relaxing being able to wander around in underwear and watch girly videos.
I went to Hanmer Springs and thought it would be a laugh to walk up 'Comical Hill'. The joke was on me when I puffed up and around several very steep bends to the top and looked more closely - yes, it was 'Conical Hill'. Must get my eyes checked when I get home...
Went through a place called Crushington - what a fab name - almost as satisfying on the tongue as Glossop.
I've been to Cape Foulwind - shall I say it blew me away? Yes, no point in holding back on the naff jokes and changing the habits of a lifetime..!
Went back to Blenheim where I had the ninth visit to the cinema of my trip, to see 'Michael Clayton'. George Clooney just gets better... sigh...
Great trip across Cook Straits despite howling gale in both Picton and Wellington, and had a brilliant meal of local fish called 'tarakihi' in the evening in Paekakariki.
I have such trouble remembering the names of places here. People ask me 'where did you stay last night' and I say 'in a place south of here, by the sea and a river, beginning with W'. Then they try various guesses, as most places begin with W or Wh (or both - Wanganui can also be spelled Whanganui, in which case it is pronounced Fanganui) - I ask you, what chance do I have?
Another great bus driver yesterday took me to the start of my walk. We had dropped everyone else off to do the Tongariro Crossing, so had about an hour's drive. Another very knowledgable, interesting guy. In that hour we covered travel (of course), children and grandchildren, careers and relationships. Before you ask, Katye, he told me about his very strong marriage of 30 years - it was quite inspiring.
I'm heading off to Napier the day after tomorrow. Calamity had almost struck the other day when I was told that the cricket had sold out. But to my relief that wasn't true and I've got my five-day ticket (at the vast price of $NZ60 - about a fiver a day) and am all set to sit on the grass and cheer the boys on. I shall try and keep a low profile though, as I have been getting 'hate mail' from a few quarters regarding my obviously distracting relationship with Harmy. But hey, I did England a favour, right? They are obviously better without him! I'm looking forward to an exciting climax to the series, and hopefully making some new chums in the process. One hostel owner asked me (tongue in cheek) if I was having trouble getting accommodation, and advised me to change my accent...
Oh dear, my short blog just grew again like Topsy. Sorry, I'll do a nice short one next, promise! Bye for now...

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Adrenalin rush

2008-03-07T06:37:00.001Z

I'm the one with the pale blue crash helmet!
Yes, I've had an exciting time since my quiet week (apart from the thrill of meeting Harmy, of course!) in Dunedin. I moved up the East coast of the South Island, stopping for a couple of nights at a high country 'farmstay'. This was a disappointment, as the advertised farm-related activities did not materialise (but then neither did any chickens, which was a relief for me). I was lucky though (something always seems to turn up) in meeting an American couple who took me with them to some sheepdog trials, which were surprisingly interesting as they have four different types of trial, using two types of dog - ones who use eye-contact as well as movement to control the sheep, and others who use their barking. The dogs race so far up the steep hills to fetch the sheep that they are too far away to see... Quite fascinating, even for a non dog-lover like me.
I moved on from there to a beautiful setting - Lake Tekapo. This very clear, blue lake is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. I walked up to the Mt John observatory - this is sited here because the sky is the clearest in New Zealand - no light pollution. At night you stumble across lots of people lying on the ground staring up at the heavens! The walk from the summit of Mt John and down along the lakeshore is full of magnificent views. I'm running out of superlatives here - I need to look at a thesaurus. The sun was out, so I spent a while just sitting looking at the vista, feeling very contented. The nights there were cold, though - autumn has arrived...
On my second day there I thought I should do an 'activity' other than walking, so I opted for a horse trek. I was a tad nervous, having tried it a couple of times a long time ago, and suffered from a lack of co-ordination vis-a-vis going up when the horse goes up, and down ... a bruising experience the previous time! But this time we went at a sedate pace, and my aged horse (19 years) was very tolerant of his inexperienced rider.
I took a day trip to Mt Cook village - this being the highest mountain in NZ. It actually lost 10 metres in height in 1991, when an avalanche chopped the top off. I had a brilliant day for my visit - the skies were clear, with only an occasional cloud obscuring some of the mountain, whose Maori name 'Aoraki' means cloud-piercer. I went on a tramp up a nearby track - very steep and challenging, but rewarding - reaching the point in the second photo. I resisted the urge to swim in the pool, as the nice young man in the picture was about to do. The corned lamb sandwich I'd made myself tasted superb up there - al fresco eating at its best! The third picture, if I can attach three again, shows Mt Cook itself.
I then set off on my last trip on the Magic bus, completing the circuit of the South Island back to Christchurch. This made me realise that my time in New Zealand is limited, and that I must think about the things I haven't done that are on offer here, and about which I might think later "I do so wish I'd done that".
End result of thinking:- yes, white water rafting on the Rangitata river. I signed up to this with a very naive view of what it entailed. I think I imagined that I would sit in a raft, nicely strapped in, while the current took us downstream. I'd get a bit wet, and it would be fun and exciting. Wrong. I actually had to play an active role, which, if I messed it up, would tip me and possibly the other 5 into a raging river. We were taken to their headquarters and shown a film of what would happen. Oh boy. I tried to escape at this point, but there was no way out. We were dressed in two layers of thermal jumper; wetsuits; 'bootees', waterproofs; helmets and lifejackets; and given an oar each. Then followed a long briefing in calm water which included 'what to do when you are out of the raft and can't get back to it or the riverbank, and are being swept away'. No straps to hold you in, incidentally - just one foot wedged under an air-filled shelf. Many instructions followed - I only remembered "Get down!" and "Hold on!" - which were the vital ones as it turned out. We were given the chance to 'wimp out' before the two grade 5 sections (grade 6 means 'unraftable' - lovely word! - if someone gets a raft down a grade 6 safely it is immediately downgraded to grade 5). But no-one else ducked out, so I felt obliged! It was an unforgettable, exhilarating and breathtaking experience, enlivened further at one point when we were completely engulfed in water and I got confused between "get down" and "hold on" and didn't manage to grab the rope; a scary moment. But I'm here to tell the tale, and glad I've done it. Another tick on the list of 'things to do before...'.
This brings us up to date, really. I'm now in Christchurch awaiting the arrival of Franky (a mate from my CIS days) and Michael next Tuesday - they are flying in from Australia, doing their trip the other way around from me. Meanwhile, I've decided (no surprise here) that I can't bear to leave NZ yet, so I've changed my ticket and will stay longer here, probably going back up to the North Island to see the towns on the East coast which I missed around Christmas time and flying to Sydney from Auckland in April (that also gives me a chance to catch up with the crowd in The Bog Irish Bar before I leave!). I might even catch some of the second and/or third test matches.
Another marathon blog, sorry, but I'm finding it all SO EXCITING and I want to share...!

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OWZAT!! And the kindness of strangers

2008-02-27T00:27:00.000Z

Challenge fulfilled - here's me and my new mate Steve Harmison! I think you owe me at least a steak pie and chips at the Griffin, and maybe even a Smirnoff Ice, Steve, - after all, he is not just ANY old England cricketer, I think I chose my 'victim' well!
This last ten days has been a less strenuous period. The first couple of days were spent in the Catlins, which is a remote area in the deep south of the South Island - no mobile phone network or internet, just deserted beaches, bush, native wildlife and small dwellings. I stayed with a German girl in a cottage which should have housed 6 backpackers, in an idyllic hilltop spot. There was a small shop two kilometres down a steep hillside, but otherwise just farming. So peaceful; bliss! We had been preceeded there by a group of campers, 30 Contra dancers from the USA. The cottage owner went to a lot of trouble to find out their onward schedule for me!
I took a walk here through the bush - clambering over huge tree roots and pools of mud - thank goodness for the orange markers to point the way - essential for an easily lost girlie like me... The path eventually opened out onto a beach from paradise - not a soul on it, no sound except the waves breaking and the birds singing... like a dream. Aaaaaa...
I wish now that I'd stayed longer, but then things would have turned out differently, and I've had such a great week that I can't harbour great regret.
My driver (Ian) through the Catlins was the usual knowledgeable, helpful type to which I've become accustomed. He informed me (how did I not know this?) that the song "Cecilia" was an allegory. Cecilia being the patron saint of music, Paul Simon was singing about the fickle nature of the music business... so you see, it's not about me going round breaking people's hearts after all!!! When I asked Ian if we were going to stop off at the McLean Falls, which I'd heard were beautiful, he changed his arrangements and took the whole busload of people there!! I was relieved to find that they were indeed worth the trip;
we arrived 90 minutes late into Dunedin!
This is a very Scottish city, lots of Scottish road names, and haggis on offer; all the schoolgirls wear kilts. The boarders look like something out of the thirties - their kilts reach to below their knees. Very smart, but hot in the current temperatures of late twenties centigrade!
Continuing the theme of kindness of strangers, I had a lovely experience on Sunday. I had taken a taxi to change lodgings - I've moved to a quiet hostel with my own room for the princely sum of $35 per night (about 14 pounds) as opposed to the normal $20-$25 for a bunk. This hostel is up a steep hill, and so justified a short taxi ride ($6.10). After unpacking I went out to explore, and was greeted by the same taxi driver (Graeme) who offered me a free sightseeing tour of the city. Long story short, (so much to tell, I could ramble on for pages) he spent 90 minutes with me, driving me around the sights, up to lookouts, showed me university buildings, churches, best places to eat, and finally the botanical gardens with a lesson in botany thrown in. No catch at all; he said it was enough that I'd enjoyed it and said 'thank you'. What a lovely thing to do!
Later in the day, I went back to the botanical gardens. I always feel very close to my mother at these places - she loved, and was knowledgeable about, flowers; I imagined her here when she and my father visited NZ in 1985. I then wandered up the 'Steepest street in the world', Baldwin Street, and chatted to a mad Dunedin resident, who RUNS up and down it 30 times a day (he says). Once again, very proud of New Zealand and his city in particular.
That evening I followed up the lead given me by my landlady in the Catlins, and caught up with the Contra dancers. They were a group from all over the States, visiting folk dance groups in New Zealand. I was the ethnic minority for the evening, but everyone made me most welcome. After 4 months away from ceilidhs it was a delight to be swung around by expert dancers; I was feted by both Americans and Kiwis, and didn't sit out a single dance... This led to drinks later in a local bar for gentle jazz with local kiwis, and an invitation to join the Contra group again on the Monday for their last 'gig', which I took up and again had a wonderful evening of dance. What serendipity - if I hadn't stayed in the same backpackers in the Catlins...
My other treat in Dunedin has been a trip out onto the Otago Peninsula on a wildlife tour. This was very well run - a small group led by a very knowledgeable guide. We went first to see albatross flying, and were lucky enough to see two very close by. Their wingspan was over three metres - smooth fliers! Then on to a beach area, where we saw yellow-eyed penguins coming in from the sea to feed their chicks. These are very rare, an endangered species. Forget 'Happy Feet' - these are not gregarious - you see them only one at a time or in couples at most, and they hide their nests from each other. What a treat to see them close up. Then we came across some sealions. These usually stay segregated, males on one beach, females on another except in the mating season. We were fortunate enough to see a female on the male-dominated beach. We had to be very careful not to walk between them, as they can move very fast and cause injury. Then to top it off, we saw a huge colony of fur seals on the rocks - the babies playing, splashing in and out of the water. Even for a non-naturalist like me, it was a fantastic experience, seeing some creatures unique to this area.
After this, I have spent two days very restfully after completing the challenge that had been set. England are playing two pre-test invitation matches here, and I have enjoyed sitting in the sunshine for seven hours each day, listening to that wonderful sound of leather on willow; gentle - or even genteel - applause; and the tactical discussions of spectators, both English and Kiwi. This is a small ground, entry $10, with a grandstand holding about 500 and patches of grass where people set up their chairs and picnics. Lovely lovely. England won the two dayer easily, by the way. The three dayer starting tomorrow will include more NZ internationals, I understand, so may be more of a stretch. I haven't decided whether to stay in Dunedin for the whole match yet.
Tonight I'm off to another ceroc class - by chance, a couple sitting near me at the cricket yesterday are ceroc-ers, so I got all the local gen, inbetween overs of course!
All in all, another eventful week, and a sociable one. So many kind and interesting people; so much to learn about a land different enough that it could be on a different planet, and yet similar in culture...

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The 'Stewart Island Experience'

2008-02-19T01:18:00.000Z

Here I am, as far south as I'm ever likely to travel, and this is the welcome I get...!
I thought this was going to be a quiet week, but it's been really quite eventful, all through unexpected happenings, which I suppose is what this uncharted tour is all about. I started the week in Queenstown, where I last caught up with you I think, and did one of my "I'll just take a quick stroll" walks, ending up tramping to the top of the cable car ride, from whence comes the second photo, of Q'town and the Remarkables (winter skiing). I felt the climb was exciting enough, and didn't join the intrepid bungy-jumpers and paraglider(er)s leaping off the hill. It was an exhilarating climb, and the view as you can see was worth the effort.
I then took my aching legs to a ceroc class that evening. On a smaller scale than I'm used to, and I found the style slightly different, but I was able to have a go, with people being very friendly and local. This led to an invitation to join a group of them at a dinner and cabaret the following evening, the highlight being three young men in DJs, calling themselves 'The Rat Pack', singing standards to a backing track. I found it pretty dire, but everyone around me seemed to enjoy it, so I tapped my foot and smiled enthusiastically. It was a pleasant evening despite the 'entertainment', as I chatted to some locals and had a couple of dances, along with a good dinner.
On to Invercargill next. Not sure what to say about this town, except that it has some nice parks, and some factory areas that are not so appealing. It seems like the most functional place I've been to - let's just say that if I emigrated to New Zealand this is not the town I'd choose to settle in. But each to their own...
My next destination was Stewart Island, just off the south coast of the South Island. I stopped off for a night in Bluff, the ferry town. 'Why would you want to do that?' I've been asked, and indeed it doesn't have much to recommend it - I blinked and missed the main street, and was advised not to spend the evening in the local bar - it did look a bit dodgy. BUT, there were a couple of really nice walks within reach, so I enjoyed my short stay. I was kept awake during the night by the wind howling around the hostel, which didn't bode well for the ferry crossing. I was right to be apprehensive - it turned out to be the worst crossing they have had for months - we were all given green fluorescent earplugs along with our sickbags - it was quite comical really - 100 people with green ears, passing bags to and fro to the two stewards, who did a fantastic job. I discovered to my releief that my queasiness on the fishing trip must have been a one-off, as I actually enjoyed the ferry trip, and now have no need to spend money on a jet-boat ride - this was way more exciting!
The weather was pretty dull on arrival in Stewart Island, so I set off for another of my 'little strolls'. Five hours later... ! As the day progressed and the sun appeared, more little islands appeared out of the mist, and my clifftop walk was beautiful. Hardly a soul there, completely deserted beaches. No ice cream though :-(
Stewart Island is much bigger than I thought, and a trampers' paradise. One main town - Oban - and most of the rest undeveloped. The main track is a 12-day effort, carrying all your needs except water on your back, staying in communal huts, or tents. I passed on this - I really need a sherpa. Must remember next time to pack one...
My second day on the island I set off actually prepared for a longish walk, taking supplies of food and drink, and a vague map of sorts. I stuck to the cliffwalks and thus managed not to get too lost, although I did manage to walk across a golf course, not noticing the 'Danger - keep out' sign until I was much too far up a steep hill to think of turning back. (Was the danger the nearby cliff edge or the golfers I'd irritated? Who knows - luckily I didn't find out). I stopped for lunch and invested a corned beef sandwich in luring a friendly fellow Brit into my company for the rest of the day. We shared a sense of humour and enjoyed winding up another couple we met on the track by confusing them totally about the length of our friendship. They took it in good part, though, so a good time was had by all...
I'm back in Invercargill now, and have just booked the next few days' travel. What new adventures will befall me? Who will I meet along the way? Watch this space...

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Milford Sounds good to me...

2008-02-11T00:35:00.000Z

These pictures aren't of Milford Sound at all, but couldn't resist the tag, sorry... more of Milford later.
Since I last blogged I've had a lovely few days alternating good walks with more restful occupations. I headed off from Franz Josef towards Queenstown, but decided to jump off the bus and stay in Wanaka - a town beside an eponymous huge lake. What a great place - all the amenities of Queenstown, but much less commercialised. I did a few really nice walks there - the first being the one pictured. It took nearly three hours of continuous uphill walking in full overhead sunshine with many drink-and-breathing stops along the way before I emerged at the peak of Mt Roy. Well worthwhile, though; I wish you could see the full panoramic view. More breathtaking than the climb ...!
A couple of days later I took a shuttle bus 50kms - 30 of it on unsealed road (VERY bumpy, with the odd hazard of whole herds of sheep and cattle on the road), to Rob Roy Glacier Track. This was a bit less hard work, but an interesting climb among warnings of possible rockfalls, ending in a fabulous meadow just below the glacier, surrounded by peaks with waterfalls - indescribably beautiful. I can't think of anywhere I've enjoyed a picnic more (helped by the company of a divorced Brit-in-exile with whom I chatted, but, darn it, didn't get the address of his pad overlooking Auckland harbour...). Some you lose...
I'm in Queenstown now, which is "The Adventure Capital of the World". It is not large - 20,000 residents; but is totally focused on adrenalin. The whole of New Zealand is geared up for tourists, and does it well; everywhere you go there are i-sites, where you can get any information and help that you could possibly think of; there are backpackers' hostels in every town, however small. The only omissions, which may be deliberate to keep its charm, are ice-cream stalls at the halfway point of most of my walks. I look in vain for a big "M" for a McFlurry, but have to make do with my sandwich, banana, apple and water. I'm becoming very healthy. (My breakfast this morning of french toast, bacon, kiwi fruit and lashings of maple syrup must remain a secret between you and me.)
Every other shop in Queenstown is a company offering one of 170 activities on offer here - jetboating, paragliding, skydiving, rafting, white water surfing, and so on. Not forgetting the one invented here in the 80s - bungy jumping. I went to the bridge where it all started. The idea came from a tribal manhood ritual - I saw a video of naked pacific islanders jumping off a high tower made of branches - but they landed in the dirt below - think A.J.Hackett got it right when he substituted water for the 'landing'. I wasn't tempted to try it - luckily I have a doctor's note with me, thanks Dr Riley...!!
And so, on to what is the highlight of NZ for many people. A trip to Milford Sound. If you want to walk the track, you have to book well in advance - it entails 4 days' walking, staying in a hut, carrying all your gear including food and cooking utensils. February is so popular that you have to book now if you want to walk it in Feb 2010. I decided that I'm happy doing the day walks I can easily (and more cheaply) access, so I opted for a day trip to the Sound. This meant a very long drive - it's about 60kms as the crow flies from Queenstown to Milford, but by road it is 300kms. The journey was made very interesting by the coach driver - he was so knowledgable and enthusiastic, interspersing tales of the history of the region (Fiordland National Park), and how they keep it natural, with personal tales of his fishing and hunting trips. He talked for two hours without a break, all while negotiating some very narrow, twisting roads. All the drivers have seemed to be highly educated people, some with political views they love to get over to their captive audience.
On arrival at the Sound, we boarded a boat and had a lovely cruise through the fiords - it was a misty rainy day (7 metres of rain on average per year there), which made it very mystical and eerie. We spotted some fur seals on the rocks, and many of the native and migratory birds. An enchanting place which really deserves more time, but is very remote and therefore expensive for the budget traveller. On the list for a return visit sometime..
So now, after an overnight stop in Te Anau on the way back, I'm in Queenstown again. I've done some machine clothes-washing (you can't believe the luxury of almost-clean clothes; everything seems to have a constant film of dirt - a combination of suntan lotion, dust from walking tracks and sweat, which all seem immovable. Maybe I need some CILLIT BANG, what d'you think, Alex? - hmmmmmm).
Off to Southland next - Invercargill, Stewart Island and the Catlins. Trying to time my stay in Dunedin to coincide with the English cricket - may be there too early. But I have been set a challenge (thanks, Stephen) which I'll tell you about if I succeed with it, otherwise it's our secret. (Don't worry, I'm not going to streak).
Hasta la blogista!

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The Old Man is Snoring...

2008-02-01T06:40:00.000Z

Hi Gang, I'm in Franz Josef - on the west coast of the South Island of NZ, and it's hissing down with rain. This is the base for glacier exploration, but it's really not the weather for it, so I compromised this morning and walked to the nearest access point to the 'terminal' (I know the jargon!) of the glacier. It obligingly stopped raining while a friendly passer-by from Holmfirth (!) took my picture. I'd been trying to pluck up the courage, (still scared of being on slippery ice, although I know it's safe with guides and crampons), especially with Andrew's comments to spur me on, to do the full-day glacier hike, but the weather has let me off. Apparently it's here to stay for a few days, so I shall move on, with the proviso that I may come back if time and funds permit. Phew, close call!
The first picture obviously shows me on the Trans Alpine railway journey - too grand to be called just a train trip! It really was 'awesome' - journeying through the Canterbury Plains - vast river valleys - through to snow-capped mountains. I spent most of the four hour journey on the observation deck - sounds as though it should be on top of the train, somehow, but of course isn't (makes me think of that ludicrous scene in the Channel Tunnel with Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible 1).
I'd like to show you that I AM acquiring a tan - despite plastering on the factor 30 most days - but whenever I am in t-shirt and shorts I'm busy walking to remote spots where no one else seems to go. I've tried taking my own picture, but I've always suffered from short arms, and only get my ugly mug and no scenery...
I had a great 4 days in Greymouth, having planned to stay only 2. It's not a 'wow' place - not much there at all, just a town by the sea on the way to somewhere else. But I found a really nice hostel - small, friendly, clean, light, bottom bunk (I seem to fall off the ladder every morning when I'm in a top one - my legs seize up overnight and have to loosen up gradually. Anno Domini?) Also free use of bikes. So I used one (I'm getting quite good at it, and my bum's getting toughened up to it. Is that a good thing? Answers on a postcard...) and cycled 8km one day to the start of a coastal walk; walked another 8 kms via a wooded path interspersed with views over rocky outcrops where seals bask in the sun (really, I'm not making this up, it's magic!), and stopped in a deserted bay with one hotel near the beach. This had one other customer, and a barlady who looked like she was a left-over from the 1860s gold rush. I half expected her to chew baccy and spit... but she was friendly and poured me my diet coke, noticed it was flat and gave it to me for free (do I look so impoverished?). They only get customers at night usually, she told me. I guess she stands at the bar all day because there's nothing else to do? It's such a far cry from Stockport - the difference in our lifestyles is immense! (Oh, then I walked and cycled back - wouldn't like you not to realise how far I went!) I also realised that I don't mind at all returning the same way - it always looks different on the way back, from another perspective, and I always spot things I missed on the way out.
The next day I cycled even further (I know it's peanuts to you hardened cyclists back there, but it's a big distance to me...) to an old gold mining town. This was much more interesting than I expected, enlivened by chats from local enthusiasts - one insisted on explaining to me every nut and bolt of the cart he was restoring, but he was so enthusiastic I got carried along with him. I also had some personal attention from a guy who insisted on showing me how to adjust my bike to the correct height - it was ten times easier after that. His kids kept shouting 'C'mon Dad, we'll miss the steam train!' but he insisted on staying until he was sure my bike was safe and efficient, and that my helmet was fitted properly. What a nice man - typical of the New Zealanders I've met so far. They seem to 'go the extra mile' if you'll pardon the expression. If I ask where I can book something, they immediately grab the phone and do it for me. They are so helpful and friendly, and proud of their country.

Now, vegetarians look away for a paragraph...
I tried a new delicacy yesterday - possum pie. It was delicious - a cross between chicken, turkey and rabbit - most like brown turkey meat really. I was the only one on the bus to try it - the others were too squeamish. They seem ok eating chicken, though, and little lambs...???

I'm typing this on a red bus full of pcs, looking out of the window at the rain. On to Wanaka tomorrow - not sure what awaits me - how exciting! - it's a town not much smaller than Queenstown, I'm told, which is just up the road; but less frantic. Queenstown is the adrenaline capital, party, party. That'll be my next stop!
I'm beginning to feel the urge to get a single room for a night or two. A bit fed up with creeping around so as not to wake people, then being woken myself at odd hours of the night or morning. Just like an endless Rochester morris weekend really, without the evil varieties of whisky, calvados, port, brandy and stilton on offer... But as a dorm bed is $20-25 a night, and a single room in a B&B in the region of $120 I'll have to be desperate...

Hope you're all ok, working hard, and coming up with ideas as to how I can earn a living when I get home - I'll have to start thinking about that sometime, but if you do it for me I can just relax. Oh, that's what I AM doing, sorry! Cheers for now!

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Just mooching around Canterbury

2008-01-25T23:10:00.000Z

Yes, I wasn't struck on Christchurch at first. It doesn't have the 'Wow' factor that I've come to expect everywhere I go in New Zealand. But I've become quite fond of it, and stayed in the area longer than I expected. I've hit lucky on my timing – the World Buskers' Festival is on, so I've spent a lot of time sitting in the sunshine watching very professional performers, all for small donations. Also, they are followed around by food stalls, selling great meals at much cheaper than cafe prices, and much better than I can produce in the hostel kitchen. I have also become acquainted with the steak and cheese pies recommended by Andrew – yum; but I shall definitely not have another 'hot dog' – the sausages over here are decidedly dodgy, and when stuck on a stick, dipped in batter and deep fried, they are to be avoided. Christchurch is very English – punting on the river Avon for example. It is a flat place with no direct access to the sea, but I did go on the bus yesterday to New Brighton, which had lots of surfers, a pier and a LONG beach (yes, I walked the length of it, then caught a bus back!).
I spent a few lovely days this week on the Banks Peninsula – about 80km south of here. Formed by volcanoes, as most places are here. Captain Cook thought it was an island, but it is a series of bays, very beautiful. I stayed in a smallish town – just a seafront really, with houses being built up the hill. Seaside houses are called 'bachs' – pronounced batch, not as the composer. There are a surprising number of differences in language, and sometimes I need a translation. The January sales advertised 'Manchester' – this is linen, apparently. The favourite ice cream here is 'hokey pokey' – vanilla with honeycomb bits. If you want sweet potato, you ask for kumara. When driving, it's the law that you signal at roundabouts, and you must stop for pedestrians at crossings – I'm constantly amazed that as I approach any roadside the traffic comes to a halt. Sometimes I've crossed the road when I didn't really want to, because I'm too embarrassed to admit that I was dithering... Also, on crossroads with lights for pedestrians, they stop all the traffic so that you can cross diagonally quite safely. All part of a slower lifestyle, and feeling more relaxed about everything.
Christchurch seems to have a higher proportion of New Zealanders to 'foreigners' than other places I've been to somehow. Maybe the festival has brought them onto the streets, or maybe tourists don't stay here long, using it as a stepping stone to more 'wow' places? I went to an outdoor theatre production last night, and there were lots of local references that went over my head. There are not many Maori people in this part of NZ, and also the Cantabrians (the region is called Canterbury) seem to dislike the Aucklanders intensely. Maybe it's a friendly rivalry, but seems more pronounced than say Londoners vs Mancunians.
I am beginning to get the hang of not doing much. It still feels strange to sit for a couple of hours in the same place – I feel that I should be exploring all the time, to justify being here and not working. I have investigated local work, but need to wait until next month when the season really kicks in and they may be desperate enough to employ a middle-aged woman without a permit. But for now, it's good to have time to just 'be', if that doesn't sound too pretentious. I saw a quote recently which seemed to sum up what was bugging me about my life ... "Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for, in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it."
Off West to Greymouth in the morning, via one of the most scenic train rides in the world, I'm told. Hoorah!

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Gone fishing!

2008-01-17T21:49:00.000Z

Yes, here I am with part of my catch... I can now cross 'sea fishing' off my list of 'things I must do once in my life'. We also caught crayfish, which are actually lobsters - I took one back to the hostel and the owner helped me cook it. It was delicious, and the blue cod and soldier fish (in picture) which I cooked the next evening melted in the mouth - I've never had fish this fresh before! So I'm glad I did it, but although I'm generally a good sailor, all that bobbing about in one place in a tiny boat made me feel distinctly uneasy, and the gutting of the fish nearly finished me off (and that was just watching it - I didn't expect the blood that poured from the cod...). But hey, it's all experience!
This all took place in Kaikoura - famous for the crayfish and for whale watching. I didn't indulge in the latter, as it was extremely expensive, whale appearances were not guaranteed, and at least 50% of passengers generally 'feed the fish'. I passed on that one, and borrowed a bike instead - had to banish the ghost of the 'arrest' in Laos! - it was very rickety, and occasionally the pedals seized up and wouldn't turn, making it quite hairy at times. But it got me there and back; 'there' being the seal colony on the Kaikoura Peninsula and a lovely walk over the clifftops and back overland.
I haven't been busy doing things all the time. The weather this week, while I've still been at the northern end of the South Island, has been brilliant - up in the thirties (that's centigrade, in case you're saying that your temp's the same!). I've spent some time sitting around soaking up the vitamin D (for my osteoporosis, you understand, purely medicinal) and reading. I saw an article about Jeremy Clarkson, describing him as 'human marmite' - very appropriate, I think - you either love or loathe him (I love him!). I'm now reading a Paul Theroux book about his travels around the coast of GB in 1982 - what a miserable lot of people he has described so far; I hope it gets more cheerful as the book goes on!
I must thank Anne's Andrew for his comments - always good to hear from someone who has shared experiences - I wonder if you also ate mostly 'Pams' products - the cheapest brand I've found, although I'm sick of her muesli now! Indulged in a bought breakfast this morning - french toast, banana and bacon, drizzled with maple syrup and icing sugar. Yum!
My trip from Picton to Kaikoura on the Trans Coastal train was very interesting - nothing like an English train trip! The views along the coast were spectacular, and enlivened by a running commentary by the guard, and by the train slowing down when anyone spotted anything worth an extra look - e.g. a pod of dolphins close to the shore. Every minute stop was explained, such as 'we're just changing over drivers now'! The whole atmosphere over here is so laid back. We were an hour late getting into Christchurch last night, but if a few more people got to see some dolphins, what the heck?!
I don't know if you've noticed, but I love New Zealand! The scenery is, of course, spectacular almost everywhere - so green, although this summer is so good that it's looking a bit brown and dry in places; mountains, meadows, cliffs, rocks; it just goes on. And so much SPACE. Even the towns give a feeling of space; the streets are wide and everywhere is clean.
Christchurch is my least favourite place so far, but then I've only just arrived, so it may grow on me. It is quite flat, and has a river but no sea unless you get on a bus to New Brighton, which I think I must do. I'm heading off on the Trans Alpine train next week - a treat in store - but will be back here before I leave NZ, hopefully to catch up with the England cricket team... hoorah for the barmy army!
It's raining today, so I'm going to explore the botanical gardens - they will be 'fresh' in the drizzle - and maybe sip a mug of hot chocolate, cream and marshmallows. It's a tough life! Bye for now!

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Contrasts

2008-01-10T05:56:00.001Z

From mountain lake to blue coastal waters ... This week has been a series of ups and downs, and that's not just the walking terrain! I have encountered heavy rain and hot sunshine; clear views of snow-topped mountains and misty scenes of northerly viewpoints; beautiful hostels with free helpings of chocolate pudding, ice cream and muffins, and smelly dirty unfriendly places; loneliness and friendship.
When I left you last, I was about to walk in Abel Tasman National Park. This was absolute bliss. I chose part of the coastal track - an easy walk in sandals (yes, still think they look naff, but SOOO practical!), incorporating drop off and pickup in a speedboat (fun!), clifftop walks (see second picture - oops, loaded them the wrong way round chronologically), a wobbly rope bridge, a laze on the beach listening to Katie Melua on the headphones and a paddle. This is the picture I have in my head when I'm trying to get to sleep at night - you know, the 'imagine you're on a sunny beach with the waves lapping at your feet' one... Magic! Top it off with the amusement for me of seeing a sign reading 'kayaking - no pervious (sic) experience needed'. ?!
After this perfect day, the weather turned inclement. I was glad to have the car, and drove up to the north west point of the South Island - called Farewell Spit. I didn't. Instead, I sat in a cafe, drinking hot chocolate and looking through the window at the rain, imagining the beautiful view. I managed a trip between downpours to Wainui Falls, where I enjoyed the fumes from a group of youngsters smoking dope - a feeling off wellbeing crept over me... Then on to the Abel Tasman monument, which was roped off. I couldn't make out why, my eyesight not being brilliant, but was told that some wag had hoisted a toilet onto the top, and it was considered dangerous. So I thought I'd go somewhere else in lieu - sorry - and went to the Waikoropupu Springs - the clearest freshwater springs in the world, they say. Very peaceful and a good place to meditate.
That evening I decided to go to the pictures in Takaka, a small town. This was a wonderful experience, in a theatre holding 50 people seated in a combination of cinema seats, sofas, and big cushions at the front to lounge on; it was like stepping back 40 years. The lady who sold me my ticket was also the projectionist, and ice cream seller in the intermission - yes, the film was stopped until everyone had made themselves comfortable and bought snacks. She asked me at this point if the volume was ok! Before the film and in the break, she showed photographs of locals at parties and fetes. At the end, no-one moved until all the credits had finished rolling. I was half expecting the National Anthem...! It was a lovely evening with a real community feel to it.
I'm now in St Arnaud, in Nelson Lakes National Park. It has been a beautiful hot day, and I've walked 10 km (see first picture) through forest, by the lake, over shale, rocks and streams and up to Whisky Falls - a very tall waterfall. I had intended to tramp up Mt Robert, but there were signs everywhere warning about alpine conditions which can occur in any season, and I thought as I was alone it was best to err on the side of caution. I had a very satisfying walk, and had no regrets. My hostel here is first class - I have a bed with no bunk overhead, the kitchen is clean enough to tempt me to COOK (tuna and fresh veggies!), and a wonderful view of snow-capped mountains overlooking the lake. What more could anyone want.
I've extended my car hire for a few days - love the freedom it gives me - so am staying in the north of the south for a few more days before I start my great train journeys south - watch this space. Ciao everyone!

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Paradise

2008-01-04T04:58:00.001Z

That's where I am - 'Paradise Found'... only thing missing is you guys... I'm on the South Island now, and it just gets better. I enjoyed Wellington, my last stop in the North Island - had a lovely walk on the Southern Walkway above the capital. These walks are very well signposted - only I could get lost on them - but am still finding it a great way to get to chat to people (a scary-looking big guy [rugby player?] helped me out on this one - real gentleman despite appearances!). I also found a great sports bar one evening and watched the cricket while eating shepherds pie and drinking Smirnoff Ice...
The ferry trip is like a Channel crossing for the first hour until you reach the coast of the South Island, when it becomes magical - you head inland through fjord-like passageways of water between towering hills and islands. These are the Marlborough Sounds - formed by river beds due to the land rising from the movement of tectonic plates. The weather was misty, which just added to the atmosphere. A young Wellingtonian guy added to my day by giving me a historical and geographical commentary. It was a shame to arrive, really!
Picton is a small town on a little harbour, and is delightful. I saw the New Year in on the waterfront in company with the whole town, I think, and a band playing 'babyboomer' classics. And I entered 2008 first, folks! (Fiji is West, apparently, so New Zealand IS the first country to reach the new year). Beat y'all to it! Happy New Year to you all, anyway!
Picton is the starting point for the Queen Charlotte Walkway - the whole walk is 71 km so there are huts to stay in on the way. These are already full at this time of year, though, so you can get a boat to a start point and get picked up further along the walk a few hours later, which is what I did, travelling on the mail boat, which also stops at various jetties to - guess - yes, deliver the mail! This was a fabulous day's walking - up and down and rocky enough to be interesting, but not TOO challenging; all with great views of the Queen Charlotte Sound. The second picture shows a view from the walk. Reminiscent of Guernsey cliffwalks?
The weather, after a disappointing start to my NZ trip, has now changed to brilliant, hot sunshine. I am in heaven! I decided to blow some Christmas money on hiring a car for a week, so that I could reach places the Magic Bus doesn't go, and it is a great success thus far. True freedom! And fun to drive an automatic again. It's reasonably cheap (about 100 pounds for the week) but that's not sustainable for the whole trip, obviously. Yesterday I drove from Picton along the north coast, stopping on impulse to do an hour's circular cliff walk. I know, that doesn't seem to make sense, but it was a promontory, really. It was just perfect - blazing sunshine interspersed with shady glens. I couldn't believe how lucky I am. I just keep thinking 'Wow'. That's probably the full extent of my vocabulary - my brain has started to shut down, I think. I attempted an 'easy' sudoku the other day and had to give up - so I've now bought a whole book of 'em and am trying to exercise my brain regularly. It's easier to carry than my book, too - I like to have something to occupy me as I laze in the sunshine on a snack break on my walks - but why have I started reading a 900-page book? It's a good one, but weighs a TON!! Today I've driven to Motueka, a start point for Abel Tasman National Park walks. I decided to drop in on Nelson on the way, and discovered a jazz festival in progress. What serendipity! Is there anything better than listening to jazz in hot sunshine? I don't think so... although some of you 'folkies' may disagree!
Thanks again for all your comments and news. Once again, hope you don't mind that I only reply sporadically, I do appreciate them so much...
Off to pack my day bag for Abel Tasman tomorrow. Sweet as...
A la prochaine!

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Summer in New Zealand!

2007-12-29T05:09:00.001Z

Hi everyone, hope you had a good Christmas - was the weather kind? - I hear some of you managed walks between meals, so that sounds good.
I had a very 'different' Christmas Day. Most things were closed, of course - people go away for 2-3 weeks apparently, as of course it's their summer holiday time. But I met an English lady in the hostel on Christmas Eve, and we agreed to walk together the next day. But from 10am until we got back at 6.30pm, she never drew breath. I thought I could talk, but she didn't give me a chance! She was a strident lesbian socialist feminist veggie. All those things pose no problems for me - but nothing was up for discussion. I now know about the Red Walkers' Group, the Socialist Choir, the Women's groups for this and that - you name it! Very educational, I'm sure, but I had a headache at the end, and was far more exhausted than the walk warranted - which in fact was a lovely walk through a redwood tree plantation. "Serves her right for going away at Christmas" I hear you say. But hey, it could have been worse... I finished off with a curry in Rotorua - the only restaurant open - couldn't face a shared meal at the hostel!!!
Rotorua itself is like the curate's egg - good in places. The lakeside is lovely, mostly, but if you wander around the bay you come across the thermal pools, and they STINK! You are supposed to get used to the smell, but it made me feel really queasy. They are fascinating, though - pools of bubbling mud with steam emanating - in the middle of a field sometimes. Some people have built their house by one, and use them to cook their meals...
I was happy to move on to Taupo, where I had the best walk so far - supposedly the best one day hike in NZ - the 18.5 Km Tongariro Crossing (labelled 'challenging'). It hadn't been open for a few days because of poor weather, and when I got there (4.30am get up!) the bus driver said "oh, looks like there's quite a bit of snow up there". I was in a panic, as I'm scared stiff on snowy slopes now after a bad experience in Austria, but I hired a walking pole and set off in great trepidation. The first half, the 'up', was exhilarating, but scary in places, scrambling on hands and knees over rocky bits, and quite steep in places. I think on the whole, though, I was more scared of what was to come - the downward slopes on the ice. Which just goes to show you shouldn't be afraid - it may never happen, and it didn't! The walk turned out to be fabulous - I reached snowy heights, and walked on the saddle between two volcanic mountain peaks - access not allowed because of the weather. I saw the beautiful Emerald Lakes - see 2nd picture. Then, coming down on the other side, all the snow had gone, and the terrain changed from volcanic rocks to grassy slopes, then woodland, waterfalls and streams. Absolutely beautiful... I was so glad I'd done it.
Interestingly, although most of my fellow travellers in the hostels are Asian - Japanese, Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean etc, few of these go walking. I met one group of Chinese guys on the path, (they walked a bit behind me luckily, as I kept forgetting my pole and they would pick it up and meet me as I retraced my steps looking for it, oh dear) but otherwise it was Germans, Dutch, Canadians and a few English people.
The difference is also noticeable in the hostel kitchens, of course - the Asian people are busy cooking themselves rice and noodles for breakfast, while the Europeans are munching on their muesli. I'm still hunting a decent 'all you can eat' breakfast place at a reasonable price!! I WANT A PANCAKE!!! I'm actually amazed at the meals people produce in these kitchens. They are eating gourmet meals while I'm on my beans-on-toast or pot noodle (I've found quite a good variety!). Seriously, I'd rather alternate a very cheap and easy snack one night with a reasonably cheap fish n chips/shepherds pie type meal out the next, rather than faff about cooking... see, I haven't changed at all yet!
So I'm getting to know a lot about different cultures, but not too much about New Zealanders themselves yet. I'm thinking I'll treat myself to a couple of nights B&B soon, so that I can chat to some locals as well as have a peaceful night in a single room. When I get to the South Island on Monday I'll start thinking about some casual work too - that may be the very best way to meet people. I've been put off WOOFing a bit by my Christmas Day companion, who is a WOOFer. (Working On Orgainic Farms)!
Taupo, by the way, is a lovely place, by Lake Taupo, which is the size of Singapore, or the Isle of Wight. NZ medium-sized towns just feel so spacious - the roads are wide, there are lots of flowers, it seems so laid-back. I could happily have stayed there a while, but my schedule for New Year's Eve, which was tricky to book, meant I had to move on.
So here I am in Wellington, poised to cross over on Monday to the South Island. I had a good trip down on the Magic Bus - a good driver, who gave us a lot of info about the countryside. We passed the army practice ranges; he said that they cull wild horses because they damage the terrain, but what damage do the army do? He also told us NZ has effectively no air force now - just a few patrols protecting the 200-mile sea radius. I guess a coachful of mainly young, impressionable people is a good platform to get across your political ideas, but I found it interesting, anyway!
The weather is improving now, you'll be glad to hear! The sun is out today, so I'm about to explore Wellington. The cable car and botanical gardens, I think. This wretched email system has lost the photos I carefully uploaded last night, and I'm out of time now, so I'll come back when the sun's not shining temptingly through the window and send this off.
I wish a very Happy New Year to all my faithful readers - here's to a great 2008 for us all...

PS Just added 3rd picture for you cricket fans out there - I was watching a game in the park in Wellington, and was amused to see that when a batsman is 'out', he has to walk through this gate to get off the field. Reminiscent of 'Blazing Saddles'?!

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Happy Christmas to you all! Happy 21st birthday tomorrow Alex!

2007-12-20T22:13:00.001Z

Kia Ora! (That's a catch-all phrase for Welcome, Hello etc.) And I always thought it meant 'horrid bright orange squash with bits in'...
I am getting the lingo here - instead of 'OK' or 'cool', the kiwis say 'sweet' or 'sweet as'.. as in "I'm on your bus tomorrow" -response- 'ah, sweet!' or "I had a really good day" -response- 'sweet as!'. Also the letters Wh are pronounced like Ph i.e. the place I stayed on Wednesday night was spelt Whitianga, but pronounced Fitianga (soft g). I'm getting so fluent I'll be indistinguishable (?) from a real kiwi soon..
But back to Christmas, the first picture (if it gets sent, I'm having problems with them) is the flower on the kiwi Christmas tree - the Pohutakawa. I don't seem to have a picture of a whole tree, sorry, but they look gorgeous with the red flower and the white blossom. Perhaps you can google a better picture?
I'm back in Auckland today and Christmas is a bit more in evidence - a few inflatable santas scattered here and there in shops, and fliers about school and church carol services; The Messiah at the local concert hall; and I saw some Christmassy wrapping paper in a shop yesterday. Not much more than that, though, and there are no crowds in the shops at all. I haven't seen any houses decorated, but haven't seen many normal residential areas. Our hostel has a decorated tree. The locals are saying that it is getting more commercialised, but it has a long way to go to catch up with the UK - hope it doesn't, it's lovely, just festive enough so you know it's happening, but not OTT!
Anyway, hope you all have a really good Christmas with your nearest and dearest - I shall be a long way from mine, but they (you!) know I love and miss them, and we can have a get together on a different day when I'm home again...
I've been away on my travels since I last 'spoke' - to the appropriately named 'Northland'. I am travelling with the Magic Bus company. This is a backpackers' travel company, but hopefully with fewer of the 'Club 18-30 - lets get as drunk as we can and shout very loudly' brigade. Oh dear, what a party-pooper I sound. But so far I've met up with some nice people - mainly in their late twenties and thirties, and mostly women. Why don't men travel on their own I wonder? There are groups of women, women on their own and couples, but few male groups if any in the hostels, and few loners. I spent a couple of days with Thelma and Louise(!), nice girls, one from Rotterdam, other from Brighton. Louise and I went sea kayaking together - great fun, but scary at first. There was quite a strong breeze, we were soaked through and had to bale out our canoe; we struggled to make any headway at all, at one point blagging a tow from the group leader! Pretty fast coming back with the wind behind us, though. It was a bit cold and I suggested lighting a fire at the back of the boat, but the leader said it would burn and sink - after all, you can't have your kayak and heat it!!! Ouch, sorry, couldn't resist, but the old ones...! We went out and around an island, and back through a tunnel in the middle of it, and felt quite proud of ourselves. I have the bleeding knuckles and blisters to show for it now, though! I've also been sand dune boarding - the second picture - couldn't get snap of me actually doing it - too much sand for cameras! I was scared at the top - you lie face down on the board and hurl yourself down a steep dune towards a stream... but once I was a third of the way down I'd stopped screaming and was actually enjoying it!
The other exciting thing I did was in the Bay of Islands, where I went on a day's sailing on a catamaran. It was choppy, and I got pretty wet, but we saw lots of dolphins leaping really close to the boat. I have several photos... of the sea, curse the delay on digital cameras!
We went to the top of New Zealand, Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet - which was, I must say, truly awesome. Then we drove back down 90-mile beach. This is actually 90km - long story - but you really drive on the beach all the way, tide willing. The coaches are specially adapted buses made from trucks, and the drivers sit on a huge spring, and bounce up and down... sweet!
As an aside, why do I keep seeing signs that say 'Last cheese for x Km'? What's that all about?
I also did the famous 'footprints' dusk trail - you go into the forest with Maori guides, who sing traditional songs, tell you about the history of the area and the forest flora and fauna (well, trees, mainly!) and show you the biggest tree (biggest trunk area) in the world, a kauri (pronounced cody) tree called Tane Mahuta, about 2,000 years old (the oldest in the forest was about 4,000 years old, imagine that?). It is a very mystical, moving experience at twilight; the guides make it very special.
Changing topics, I have eaten the best fish ever here. Fish n chips will never be the same again... and the scallops are to die for. I have to stop eating out so much, though, it's getting too expensive - not like Asia! I am now carrying around an extra bag (thanks, Intrepid, for the freebie!) containing cereal, bread and tins of beans. I know how to live...
One of the things that I love here, among many, is that I feel so safe walking in the forests and mangroves - there are no nasty creatues lurking there. One guide scared me by saying there are 200 snakes in NZ - then added that they are all in parliament...
So, I've just about covered what I can of the territory north of Auckland, so I'm setting off south tomorrow to Rotorua, where I'm booked for Christmas. Then on to Taupo and Wellington, crossing over to the South Island to Picton for New Year's Eve. I had wanted to see the new year in at Gisborne on the East coast of the North Island, supposedly the place which sees the new year first (what about Fiji? They seem to have forgotten that!); but can't get a bed on the East coast for love nor money. But anyway, there's been a 6.8 earthquake over there overnight, so maybe I'm better off where I'm going. I've had to move south a bit faster than I wanted, because of booking hostels over the holiday period, but once in the south I can relax a bit. Maybe look for some work to allow more eating out!
Enough for now. Be sure that I'm thinking about you ALL - I have time to think on my travels, but an hour on the pc seems to go by very quickly, so I don't correspond individually as much as I would care to.
Have a great Christmas, and hopefully I'll be in touch before the New Year.
ALEX, best of sons, - have a great 21st birthday, will try and speak to you tomorrow, but will have to time it when we're both awake!!! Sorry I'm not there with you, but hey, I was there in 1986 on your real 'birth' day, wasn't I? I remember it well, even if you don't...!!! xxxxx

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The Antipodes

2007-12-10T05:36:00.001Z

Yes, here I am, hanging on upside down by my fingernails on the underside of the world...
Do you like my new travelling companion? He's promised to protect me against all evils - especially England rugby players... (shame).
Culture shock has been lessened by the fact that Auckland is a very multi-cultural society, and there are Thai restaurants everywhere! (And Chinese and Indian). So I can indulge in some sentimental eating if I wish. But actually, on my first night here I'm ashamed to admit I allowed myself to be tempted by fish and chips in the London Pub. Shocking. But delicious - the fish was out of this world. Auckland is all about water - called 'City of Sails'. In my ignorance I hadn't realised that you are never further than 20 mins from the shore. What a fabulous city for one who loves the sea! The terrain is very strange - bumps on the landscape like molehills with upside-down conical holes in the centre, formed by volcanoes. I've been busy since I arrived 3 days ago - went to the top of the Sky Tower (I didn't do the 'Sky Jump' from the top - it was very pricey. That's my excuse...); had a boat trip across the bay to Devenport and walked up the volcanic hills there. Walked along the shore - good paddling, loads of interesting shells, people surfing with kites. I've found the local naval base (had to be done!). I've celebrated Christmas in the Park - 200,000 locals picnicking, wearing shorts and t-shirts and santa hats, singing carols - bizarre. I've done the 'coast to coast' walk (17 km) in pouring rain - got drenched, but stubbornly wouldn't give in, although I must have walked much further as I got completely lost several times. But that meant I spoke to loads of locals and I saw lots of suburban Auckland. Had yummy pie n hot choc on the way, though; met up with Jean's brother Tom in quaintly named 'The Bog' Irish bar; had best scallops I've ever eaten before; and today I've been to Rangitoto Island - which didn't exist until it rose out of the sea in a volcanic eruption 600 years ago.
Now I'm drawing breath before I head north on Wednesday on a 'magic bus'. The weather isn't brilliant, so don't be too envious - it's raining at the mo' (but not cold, hoorah!).
Just off to hang around the naval base... on that note, Helen and Dave, please note that the bananas here are twice the size of those in Vietnam... memories of Eckernforde Naval Base...!!

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Extra

2007-12-05T11:07:00.000Z

Just a quick blog, as the last 48 hours have been noteworthy for some highs and one low - let's get that over with...
If you can imagine me cowering in the back corner of a boat, screaming (to my shame, sorry, folks) "sh*t, sh*t, don't let them bring it on the boat" repeatedly in a high, shrill voice, you'll know that while I seem to have conquered my chicken phobia on this trip, the same hasn't happened about the snakes... The theory of deep breathing and thinking how fascinating they are went straight out of the window, as a little boat approached with one draped around a little girl's shoulders. Hysteria set in, and although the offending reptile was hurriedly shooed away, it took a while for the knots in my stomach to untie themselves. Back to the drawing board, or therapist, I'm afraid, if I'm ever to venture to India or Africa. New Zealand gets ever more attractive, and Australia less so...
The highs were compensatory, though - the best being a meal in a little village cooked by a family for us, ending in a dancing session with the 16 children (3 sets of parents!). A mixture of western disco, hokey cokey and asian dance - all waving fingers and bobbing up and down in a sexy (well, we tried!) way. Loads of fun and a definite highlight.
The Dancing Road from Siem Reap (sic - I've misspelled it before, sorry) to the border with Thailand lived up to its name - about 100 miles took over 4 hours. It has been known to take 9, so it's improving!
It's the king of Thailand's 80th birthday today, and he is well-loved. All his subjects (and I mean EVERYONE), is wearing a yellow shirt in his honour - he was born on a Monday, which is a yellow day here, apparently. So the streets are a sea of yellow. Luckily it suits the Thai complexion.
That's all for now, folks, just need to say 'ouch' to Pete's punny comment on previous blog - 'Angkor management' - oh, you do take after your father!
See y'all in Auckland...

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The Kingdom of Cambodia - Angkor Wat

2007-12-03T04:16:00.001Z

I'm playing catch-up now - we have been in Cambodia for a few days now. We travelled from Saigon to Phnom Penh on a public bus. This was quite disappointing, as I had pictured us crowded in, hanging out of the windows, sharing our seats with varied farm animals and grubby children. In fact it was an air-conditioned en-suite coach, shared with elegant Cambodians (Khmer people). Doh! Despite the fact that Cambodia is a VERY poor country, our facilities here are good - they are developing the tourist industry with foreign, e.g. Korean money, and we are staying in a fairly swish hotel (I have a window and a hot shower!). It's my turn to have the single room - we three single girls have been alternating, which has worked out well as you are not as isolated as you could be alone, but every few days you get some privacy...
Back to Cambodia (was Kampuchea) - very poor, with a corrupt government. Our guide warned us to ask political questions one-to-one rather than in the group, as he had to watch what he said... Scary. The people here look very different from the Vietnamese - much darker skinned, with longer features. We are now dealing in US dollars, with change under a dollar given in local currency (can't tell you what it's called as it's written in sanscrit...). I was a millionaire in Vietnam, one million dong being the equivalent of about 30 pounds sterling. The local teachers here earn $60 a month; most people live on 50 cents a day.
The countryside is lovely - like a bowl, hills around the South and North West, flat in the centre. The roads are very rough and dusty.
Phnom Penh was a difficult place to visit in some ways. We visited an orphanage one day, and the next we went to Tuol Sleng - the genocide museum, and saw where prisoners were held during the rule of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. Only 7 people survived imprisonment. The rest were tortured until they died or confessed and gave information on others, at which point they were killed. Then we went out to see the Killing Fields; the mass graves and hundreds of skulls and bones piled high. As you walk the dusty paths, you can see bones emerging beneath your feet.
On Saturday we flew on to Siem Riep - home of Angkor Wat and many more temples. This is definitely on the list of places one should visit. But not in the hot season! It is roasting here now, so must be unbearable in the summer. We rose at 4am yesterday to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat (that's me there in the first picture). Unfortunately, just as the sun was about to appear, a cloud covered it completely! Hmmm. A thousand cameras put back in their cases! But we carried on and visited several temples - Angkor Wat lived up to its reputation and was truly awesome. The second temple was interesting as it has been left in mainly original condition, overgrown by jungle. The group photo shows one of the trees growing into the buildings. This is where 'Tomb Raider' was filmed, for all you movie buffs. We saw five temples in all - a small fraction of the ones there, but these each had unique features. One of them was only open to males if they had permission from a female to enter - women are top dogs in Cambodia - only recently have they had male generals in the army, according to our guide. Think I'll stay here... The third picture was taken at Angkor Thom - a 3km sq walled and moated city (never seen such wide moats, by the way). I chatted to this local, but he was very stony-faced and didn't reply...
We then visited a land mines museum. Not much to say about that as you can imagine it for yourselves...
We lightened our mood by watching sunset (no clouds this time) over another temple. This was enlivened by my purchase of a whistle (recorder-type, not referee!) from a small boy who then delighted me by singing 'doh a deer' from start to finish. I managed to record most of it on my phone (hoorah, at last, justification for having a multi-functional phone!)
We had dinner in a restaurant with a display of Apsara dancing - this was a highlight of the trip for me, the girls were so beautiful and moved so gracefully; the boys were agile and cheeky. The dancing was in turn dignified and then flirtatious.
Some of the group then embarked on a mission to complete the 24 hour marathon - intending to party until the next dawn came up. I was dead on my feet - the heat and lack of sleep finished me off. I haven't heard whether they made it, no one has emerged for breakfast yet!
Sorry this has been so long. It's probably my last from S.E.Asia, as we go back to Bangkok tomorrow via the Dancing Road (named thus because of the bumpiness of the ride, I'm told), and then on Thursday I leave for Auckland. Really looking forward to that.
I'll reflect on the whole of my trip in a separate blog - impressions overall of Indochina, feelings about group travel vs lone travelling...
My travels in New Zealand will not be so frantic, so my blogging will be more leisurely. I've missed so much out of the past 4 weeks, but I've still written more than enough for anyone's attention-span. Thanks for reading thus far, and for your many interesting and amusing comments. Hang in there - see you again when I'm in NZ!

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Hoi An and on to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

2007-11-28T10:03:00.001Z

A few days have passed I see since I last 'blogged'. Quite busy, so I'll try and precis it for you...
Great drive from Hue to Hoi An, which is on the coast. We went over the Hai Van Pass - hairpin bends through mountains on the coastline - quite beautiful, with waterfalls and trees. We stopped at a beach, where I paddled (of course!), but nearly came to grief as a sudden huge wave nearly knocked me over. All I suffered was a damp skirt and injured pride, however. We stayed in Hoi An for a couple of full days. They are recovering from much worse than usual flooding. We had a cycle ride through the countryside (I managed not to get arrested this time!) and were on paths which had been 4ft under water 7 days ago (see picture of me crossing a makeshift bridge over the floods). It has been just as bad in the town - in order to get to our restaurant that evening, we had to climb over a pathway made of dining chairs, as the water was up to our knees!
Hoi An is 'bite city' - maybe because of the flood waters. We have all had nibbles taken out of us, and I have some lovely red patches all over my legs and feet. Nothing that alternate applications of antihisan and tiger balm (maybe from one of the tigers beaten by the elephants previously?!) can't sort out. This is also the place to get clothes hand made. There are probably a hundred shops, maybe even more, which offer to make up anything from a pattern within 24 hours. The shopkeepers are very persistent and I find it tiresome - you can't look at any wares without someone saying 'you buy from my shop, please'? with the result that I pass by quickly and don't see anything. So I wasn't too impressed with Hoi An, although it was a favourite with some of my companions - the shoppers! The coastline between Da Nang, where the Americans landed, and Hoi An is being massively developed - you won't recognise the place in ten years' time, which is a shame, but will bring them some properity, I guess.
We are now in Ho Chi Minh City (was Saigon, and all the locals still call it that). The traffic here is 'mental' (expression used often by my young fellow travellers). Four million motorbikes in the city - new career choice - motorcycle mechanic iin Saigon? - see picture. This is the biggest city in Vietnam, but not the capital (Ha Noi, you recall!). We have been to visit the Cu Chi tunnels today - must admit that I chickened out of going down. This is a network of tunnels with living quarters too, on 3 levels underground, where the Viet Cong (South Vietnamese who were aligned with the North) hung out with some villagers too. The VC were very small, so the tunnels are extremely narrow - the lowest level are for crawling... shudder. I've since been to the War Remnants museum, which shows, amongst lots of war memorabilia, the ongoing deformities caused by agent orange. What justification can there possibly be for chemical warfare, I wonder...
To end on a lighter note, I'm impressed by the two-person bikes here - only two wheels, but two saddles (one over the rear wheel) and elongated pedals so that you can both pedal together. Looks fun!
Going to try and attach the photos now - a slow business. Off to Cambodia in the morning - Pnomh Penh (not sure if that's the correct spelling, I'll let you know).
Thanks for all the news from home, enjoying it, keep it coming!
PS The third picture is especially for you, Bill, the musical dustcart - video is on my phone, will play it on request on my return... it sounds like an ice cream van and lets people know to bring out their rubbish - ingenious. Hope there's enough detail for identification!!
PPS I'm getting really good with chickens - you have to be in Vietnam - there's one heck of a lot of 'em!!

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Confused?

2007-11-24T01:54:00.001Z

Sorry, my last blog must have puzzled you all. The missing pictures were of a row of western-style toilets and a row of squat toilets, with no walls or doors between. Like something out of a recurring nightmare. What wimps we are in the west...
I had a fabulous day yesterday. We had spent the night on the Reunification Express train from Ha Noi to Hue, the old capital. Not much sleep, much frivolity and alcohol - not on my part as I didn't trust alcohol at about one pound a bottle... We were a couple of hours late in the morning (trains run on morris time here!), but set out anyway on a tour of the sights of Hue on mootorbikes. It was such fun - exciting, but relatively safe. My driver was very reassuring, weaving his way through the traffic with great skill. I enjoyed melding (is that a word or have I made it up?) with the bike, so that when we went round a bend I went with it instead of trying to right it as we leaned...
Lots of interesting things here - but lots of bomb damage - see picture. This is just about where the divide was between North and South Vietnam. 85% of the Citadel complex was destroyed - it's being rebuilt. We were banned from one garden area, as it has not been cleared of landmines yet. Very sobering.
We visited a village to see a special little bridge, but I was more interested in the loudspeaker announcements. I assumed it was propaganda. Wrong. It was a reading of the day's newspapers, so that people working in the fields who can't read or write can keep up to date with the news.
We also went to a nunnery where we had a huge vegetarian spread. Possibly the best soup I've ever had, but accompanied by a bright green 'dumpling' bread-like. Tasty, if you could get past the colour... I now also know how to make incense sticks. New career option?!
We visited some wartime fortifications, surrounded by flowers.Instead of 'Guns n Roses' think 'Bunkers n Daisies'!
Then on to the only coliseum in Asia. Tigers and elephants used to fight there - but it was fixed so that the elephant always won, as he represented the king.
Rounded it off with a boat trip on the Perfumed River.
A perfect day, even though it rained all the time. A gentle, warm rain though. We were very lucky, as this time last week a lot of the town and surroundings were under water. The rainy season started late and ended late..
Off to the seaside today hoorah! - next stop Hoi An via Da Nang.

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Togetherness

2007-11-22T10:10:00.001Z

I thought the first lot were bad enough, but the second ... are they strange, or are we? It's natural,after all, we all have to do it. But standards vary; I've seen people sitting in the street here picking nits out of each others' hair in public... But if I seem negative, let me redress the balance by telling you that the peoplehere in Ha Noi are SO friendly and helpful. I was interviewed today by three students (sorry guys, forgot to take their photo, and they were stunningly beautiful), trying to improve their already very good English. We chatted for about an hour, it was such fun. We agreed that they should delay getting married and having lots of babies (one of them wants eleven!!) until they have graduated and then travelled... They couldn't understand why I was sitting in the sun - they stay out of it in an effort to keep their skin a lighter colour!
I have had a really great day today. It was 'free time', so I broke away on my own. I'm attaching some street pictures from here. They show the difficulties when trying to cross the road here - note the local girl inbetween the bikes! You have to remember that when they hoot you they mean 'watch out, I'm here' and not 'get out of my way' - if you jump or deviate from your chosen path, you are doomed.
It is fun finding my way around. I see much more detail than when we're in a group, when I tend to be 'sheepish'. I bought a proper map of the town, and wandered around, visiting Confucious at the Temple of Literature. I then sat in a park and watched the locals exercising. It was an oasis of calm in a mad, teeming city. Everyone seemed calm and happy, except a young man with his head in his hands.I hope he was just meditating.
Off to get overnight train in a minute, so am now going to try and attach pictures - takes ages! Bye or should I say "Dam bee-uht" fonetically, of course...

Oops I don't think any of my pictures will upload - darn it! Sorry,will try again in a coupla days...
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Ha Noi, Viet Nam + culture shock

2007-11-20T17:24:00.001Z

Hi everyone, just back from an evening at 'Funky Monkey' bar in Ha Noi. They start early and close early here - 11.30 finish. Bit disappointing - no-one over the age of 30 there to talk to, let alone dance with. Does no-one approaching my age like club music? (Excluding Jivin Jon n Dancing Dave of course).
So much to tell you since my last missive. Our night in the homestay in a Laos village was 'interesting'. We stayed in two rooms in a family home - they set out thin mattresses with mosquito nets in rows - we looked like larvae in cocoons! No mod cons except one toilet and a cold tap with river water. But they cooked us a fabulous meal, and we had a good time with them. The locals are friendly without exception. (See picture of village children.) The grandmother of the house came and put her arm around me and made me very welcome. They live in a hut raised above the ground, next to the river. Their boats are engine casings from B52 bombers, with outboard engines attached. View of river by village attached.
We then moved on to Viet Nam, which was a complete shock to our systems - firstly, IT RAINED. The border was in the mountains, and it was wet and misty and chilly. Then the terrain changed from lovely green mountains to flat brown plains, with continuous houses and traffic. The population is huge here, in contrast to Laos. There are practically no private cars - just buses, trucks, motor bikes and bicycles. Sometimes there are up to 6 people on a motor bike. If it's raining, they cover up the whole family with a cape, so the poor children in the middle see nothing. I was in the front seat of the bus for a while - terrifying, as there are no rules. The driver sees a gap (on either side of the road), toots his horn, and goes for it, weaving in between bikes and trucks coming from any direction. The same is true for crossing a road on foot - you have to move continuously, trusting that traffic will find a way around you. If you hesitate, you are lost...
So we had a grey, scary first day, and were all pretty depressed.
But the next day it all changed when we got to Halong Bay on the East coast. The sun came out and we sailed forth into a sparkling sea, between rocky, green hilly islands, stopping at one for a swim. I climbed to the pagoda at the top of the island (400+ steps), and earned my swim. We stayed on board for the night, eating a nine course meal for lunch, and a ten-course one for dinner. Have no fears for me, dear friends, I am eating very well and am in no danger of wasting away... Third picture is of sunset over Halong Bay.
Today we have come to Ha Noi - the capital of Viet Nam.It is a very busy city, but still not too Western. I find each new city very daunting at first, and cannot imagine finding my way around alone. But within a few hours I feel more confident and am ready to explore. We went to see a performance of the water puppets this evening. Very entertaining, I thought (the younger members of our party were bored to death). I found the music interesting - the stringed instrument was like a banjo in places, and the singing quite beautiful. One scene of the puppets had 8 of them dancing in formation - just like the Jemmers, really!
This city is so noisy - the horns are blaring continuously, and the pavements are full of either parked motorbikes, or people eating. There seems to be food everywhere - seemingly you can just set up a little barbecue anywhere you like and cook on it. Maybe this is my new career... ok, ok, first I have to learn to cook.
It is now twenty past midnight and my two 'roomies' went to bed an hour ago, so I'd better creep in and join them. Wehave a couple of days in Ha Noi before setting forth on our second train overnighter ('something you only want to do once', according to our guide. Might 'speak' toyou again before that... Good night all!

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Vientiane - capital city of Laos

2007-11-16T07:18:00.000Z

Thought I'd show you the tree house I stayed in in Luaing Prabang. I spent a while yesterday morning sitting overlooking the river, supping a cold, freshly squeezed banana shake... bliss!
The plane going from Luaing Prabang to Vientiane wasn't too small after all - 54 seats, and we had a smooth flight with the scenery changing from lush forested hillsides to brown and green plains. We are on the border with Thailand again - divided only by the Mekong river. Our hotel is fairly standard for a city - hot and cold water - literally, hot last night, cold this morning! Having settled in, we all set off for a temple visit. However, we had trouble finding a tuc-tuc, and ended up cramming 11 of us into a space designed for 6. Cosy! I ended up on someone's knee at the open back of the bench, hanging on desperately to the roll-bar as we hurtled round corners. Picture shows normal loading of 6.
The temple (pictured) is the most important monument in Laos, so that was interesting, particularly a beautifully decorated room like a ballroom, where the children are educated at times. It reminded me of the dancehall in Luckenback, Texas!! (totally different decoration, of course, but there was something about it...)
We then walked back to the Patuxan - this looks like the Arc de Triomphe; it was half built; they ran out of money. Then the Americans came to build an airfield during the Vietnam conflict, and hey presto, some of the concrete mysteriously disappeared and the Arc was completed. The locals call it the 'vertical runway'! I had to climb the stairs inside to the top, of course, but had been delayed by the essential purchase of an ice-cream - got left behind the others, and ended up descending in darkness as they closed up for the night - close shave! Good view from the top, though!
We decided on a Western meal last night for a change. I ordered steak and mashed potatoes. They brought chips by mistake, and when I pointed this out they took my plate away, returning 20 minutes later having mashed up the chips. Hmmm, tasty enough, - bit like fried potato - but I could have done that myself and more quickly...
Tonight we watch the sun set over the Mekong, and sip a cocktail or two - I had another Singapore Sling last night - not as good as at Raffles. My 'Blue Lagoon' was better... looked like a rather posh WKD Blue; very refreshing.
Tomorrow night is our 'homestay' night - sleeping in a village hut, apparently. Dormitory accommodation, no showers and squat toilets. Bit like a morris weekend really...
Have a good weekend, everyone...

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Arrested...

2007-11-14T05:50:00.000Z

Well, I've had my first REAL adventure! I've been taken to the police station and questioned!! We are staying in Luang Prabang, the old capital of Laos. A small town where two rivers meet - the Mekong and the Nam Khan. Our bungalows (very comfortable, by the way, raised off the ground, with huge bathrooms and almost hot water!) are a little way out of town. This being a free day I decided to strike out on my own on a bike (yes, I know, I never ride one, but you have to try these things...). Picture hopefully attached - note the bike matches my T-shirt. Anyway, I'm merrily cycling along when two men in uniform on a motorbike gesture to me to stop. They then instruct me to follow them to the 'tourist police' station, (picture me, a non-cyclist, wobbling along behind them, trying to keep up with a motorbike, weaving through local traffic) where they tell me it's now, since 3 weeks ago, illegal for foreigners to ride bikes in Luang Prabang. This is all in very pidgin English, with me wondering what the 'heck' I've done wrong. They then confiscate my bike and tell me to get a tuc-tuc back to the hotel and give the owner a docket and tell him to visit the police station. I protest (I'm so assertive these days!) and ask them to take me back, and after a discussion amongst themselves, one of them volunteers to take me. So I arrive back on the back of a police bike. Hoo-ey, this is living!
The rest of my blog pales into insignificance! First let me thank you all for your comments- sorry I'm not replying individually, the time on the internet seems to fly by, but I'm really enjoying them, and don't forget to tell me what YOU'RE doing too!
We had a lovely couple of days cruising down the Mekong, calling in at a couple of villages on the way where the hill tribes have come down to live by the river. The adults go off to work in the fields, and the children look after each other. There is no tv or birth-control, so there are loads of children, all very happy to see us, calling out 'sabaahdi' - 'hello'. I'm going to try and add pictures of the river boat, and me grinding grain. As you can see, it is hot, but not unbearable, and we have had some rain. It feels strange, though, trooping through someone's village, taking photos - I wonder how I'd feel if someone took pictures of me going about my everyday life?
Yesterday we went on a 2.5 hour trek through a forest to some waterfalls. The journey to the start of the trek was interesting, to say the least, in a tuc-tuc (like a jeep, but less posh, with 6 of us on sideways benches). We went down dirt tracks with what seemed like massive craters we sometimes avoided, sometimes not - kept bumping my head on the metal roll-bar! It reminded me of the Rhodes off-track adventure with Steve... The trek was great, very tropical but no scary wildlife. We stopped at a school where the girls were playing a game which we used to play too - I'm attaching a photo - so I asked to have a go, and they were amused at my efforts not to get entangled in their elastic skipping rope. At the end of the trek, which was enlivened by a stop where our guide, Mr Jan, sang us a local song - the Lao people all sing apparently, karaoke is BIG here!, we swam at the bottom of the waterfall - so refreshing. Then to a bear preservation area... Last night we had a typical Lao meal - riverweed with sticky rice and dips (you roll the rice into a ball in your hand and dip it) then a huge fish (absolutely delicious) steamed in banana leaves with various veggies. Then for dessert we had raw rice (it's all round grain in this area) which is dark purple and looks like Christmas pudding, with a tamarind dip and local fruits - can't remember their names except papaya and the tamarind, which looks like a broad bean, but is like a row of figs inside... This meal I have to say was not exactly to my taste, but hey, I tried it. I did have wonderful pineapple crush drink, though, with a foamy head, and ice cold - mmmmmmm! This morning, following my adventure with the men in uniform, I hopped a lift on the back of the hotel-owner's motorbike and came into the town, climbing up to the temple on top of a hill - I always have to get to the highest point! Many steps in great heat, but wow, definitely worth it for the view over both rivers and the nearby hills. It is quite beautiful in Laos - so green. The scenery on the river trip was similar all the way - vast forests with small beach areas where peanuts grow in the sand. Everyone waves as you go by...
That's it for now, off to Ventiane, the current capital, tomorrow. On a 'smallish' plane, we're told.. more adventure, hoorah! Your intrepid reporter signing off for now...

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Adventures!

2007-11-10T10:16:00.001Z

Never volunteer, they say. So how did I end up balanced precariously on the neck of an elephant with no handholds in sight? It started off ok-ish, with me cuddled up behind elephant boy, arms around his waist. But after not very far, he suddenly slides off, leaving me perched there in panic. It is actually ok on the straight, or going uphill, when you can lean forward and rest your hands on the top of his head. Going downhill is another matter - there's nothing between you and the ground about 40ft (seemingly) below. So I've added another skill to my cv... circus, here I come...!
It is so busy at the moment, our feet hardly touch the ground. We had a good overnighter on the train to Chiang Mai, where I mastered the squat toilet (thanks for all the tips, Marie); no mishaps thus far, by dint of balancing against the wall where possible. The group bonded a bit as we were close-quartered. An interesting group, mainly young, 3 couples, 6 lone travellers; some starting travels, some on last lap. Much exchange of info and experiences.
After the elephant ride yesterday we then had rides on boats made of 4 long bamboo shoots tied together, 2 to a boat, going over very gentle rapids - more like 'slows', really. But we did get wet - shorts and undies soaked through; no fun sitting on bus afterwards... then on to a temple in the evening where we saw and heard monks chanting, and also a ceremony with everyone wearing white robes. This was at the end of a road up the mountain, with 99 hairpins bends allegedly. We were in an open-sided truck, and I felt pretty queasy by the time we got up there...
Today we've driven up country to Chiang Khong, via a cashew factory (that's the second picture - I never knew they grew on the end of a fruit like that), then the White Temple - built by a young man who has travelled and incorporated modern ideas and pictures - not to everyone's taste, but certainly different. My pictures of the temples so far have been disappointing, really - nothing looks as good as the original. You'll have to look at guide books to see them - all you'll get here is MY view of everything.
I feel a bit rushed at the moment - but I am getting better at packing my backpack. Thanks go to Sylvia and Sandra for the vacuum bags - my clothes pack up fairly small. Pity the bags don't reduce the weight as well as the size! Our next couple of days will be more relaxed - two days on the Mekong River, into Laos. By the way, thanks for not correcting me earlier - Laos is the country, Lao the people and language.
Loads more to say, but less is more, they say, so suffice it to say I'm having a wonderful time, wondering what I did right to be so lucky, I'm out of touch for a couple of days at least, but keep the comments and emails coming, really appreciate them...

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Bangkok

2007-11-08T07:30:00.001Z

No picture today; no camera to pc lead on me, must remember to carry it! Bangkok is totally different from Singapore. Practically nothing in English. Roads packed with traffic and people. Mostly no official crossings - you have to just step into the road and hope they stop. I try and position myself between two locals, and go with them... I wandered around yesterday and found a park with an outdoor gym; there were also posts with pictures of exercises, so people jog around and stop to do these. I refrained from these as I seem to be walking miles on my travels (didn't get lost this time, though, despite road names being indecipherable). Did I say things were cheap in Singapore ... well, last night in Bangkok I bought two bottles of drink for 25 baht (about 37p), and my evening meal cost me less than a pound. We've had a klong ride today (fast-moving, low-slung boat on canals); interesting mix of shacks (but many, strangely, with ironing boards) alongside more affluent properties and magnificent temples. The sun constantly shines - it's about 85C. We went to Wat Po - the biggest buddha - truly awesome! Then my 'roomy' Rachael and I went for a Thai massage. Quite painful, she stretched me into positions I wouldn't have thought possible. But I survived and feel very relaxed. All for about 4 pounds, sorry Emily! Hey guys, this certainly beats working!! We're off on an overnight train to Chiang Mai tonight. Scott, our guide, says this one's ok - there's one later in the trip which you'd only want to do once - can't wait for that! Bye for now!

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So long Singapore

2007-11-06T11:42:00.001Z

So Pete gets the prize for spotting my 'Cecil St' sign in the previous blog - yes, it doesn't leave room for much more in my backpack... This is me, (well, you know that,) on Sentosa Beach, having the obligatory, warmer than usual, paddle. Sentosa Island is a bit like Disneyworld - there is piped music everywhere you go. But it does have a tall tower (love 'em), and you do get to walk inside a (stone) lion's mouth... I was very pleased to have another travelling companion, a Dutch girl called Nicolien, who reassured me when we had to go in an enclosed lift, and went first through the jungle exhibit in case of legless reptiles.
Curious aside here, I'm surprised to find that there are squat toilets even in the airport and smart malls - some women choose to use these... maybe they are more hygienic? Or just a habit. Can't wait to try them out on my tour...
You may not hear from me for a while now - I'm going off to Bangkok in the morning to start my Indochina tour and the internet opportunities may be few and far between. So you can take a break from these - a bientot, or is it sayanara - probably neither... bye!

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The Real Singapore

2007-11-05T13:58:00.001Z

I'm lucky enough to have no spatial awareness - i.e. I get lost easily. This is a great advantage when you're travelling, as you get to see so much more... I must have walked ten miles today, through dockyards (I was sure the Harbourfront attraction was down there), uncharted parks, downmarket markets and so on. I can't get over how clean EVERYWHERE seems to be - no-one eats or drinks in public, so there's no litter. Having said that, we did see a rat running around on the first evening in a fish and meat market, but hey, it's all protein... I indulged myself this evening with a 30 min reflexology session - this cost approx five pounds. Quite ferocious at times, but feet feel fantastic now. Having spent such a fortune, I cut back on my evening meal, spending S$5 (approx 1.7 pounds) on a three course meal (soup, lemon chicken and rice, and an unidentifiable dessert which looked like lentil soup, but was slightly sweeter). Last day here tomorrow - feels like home already. Keep feeding the cat, Alex; she won't thank you for it, she'll take it for granted, but it may stop her bringing in the odd mouse or bird...

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Raffles

2007-11-05T01:42:00.001Z

So here's me sipping my Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel. Cheers! After a 12 hour snooze I took the MRT train from my rather down-market area (food is cheap near the hostel - S$5 for a plateful of tasty noodles) to the river, where there were dragonboat races going on. They have a great method of 'cox'ing - a huge drum which is banged to give the oarspeople their timing. The British team had already been eliminated...! Then onto a boat for a river tour - realised that Singapore is all about high rise business, restaurants and night life. They are very proud of their success. You have to search a bit for native culture - it is very multicultural. My dorm-buddies at the hostel are from Vietnam. They stay up late and watch movies like 'Kill Bill' at top volume, so I'm glad of my earplugs and mask! My buddy is leaving for Phuket this morning, so I'm going to try going over to the island... Thanks for your comments, keep 'em coming!

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I've really gone!

2007-11-03T09:39:00.001Z

Well folks, here I am in Singapore - quite a miracle as I managed to go to the wrong terminal at Manchester, then set off the x-ray machine by forgetting about my mobile phone... oops! Isn't it amazing how a huge lump of metal full of people can get off the ground - it's magic, isn't it!!! I have a new friend Marsha, from Canada, with whom I explored Chinatown through a haze of jetlag this morning. Off out now for water and noodles...

Final preparations

2007-11-01T14:30:00.001Z

Less than 24 hours to go - can I possibly get all this stuff into my
backpack? Yes, just about - but can I lift it? Yes, just about!!! Can't
think of anything I can take out. The trouble with 'adult' gapping is that
you seem to need so much more medication - but hey, I can jettison most of
it when I reach New Zealand, hopefully. How big are the mozzies there?! The
biggest weight at the moment is (are?) the butterflies in my tum - I'm
getting very excited, and can't believe the moment has almost arrived...
just hope the alarm goes off tomorrow morning. Thanks to all who've
encouraged me and got me to this point - hope I live up to your
expectations. So bye for now to all my family and friends, and hello to all
the ones out there, happily unaware that they will be crossing my path...!!!

Countdown

2007-10-12T15:46:00.001+01:00

7 working days to go - I fly to Singapore 3 weeks today!!! I am now at the start of the 'last time for a while', and saying 'bye for now' to people. How lucky I am to have so many lovely friends - how I shall miss you all…

But I am really excited too, and can't wait to set off into the unknown with my pack on my back. Thinking of what to take (and the much longer list of what NOT to take) does focus the mind on what's important. It's a bit like 'what would you save in a fire?'. We seem to spend our lives working excessive hours to earn the money to buy things we need to make life easier because we're working excessive hours… (draw breath now).

At home I have a wardrobe full of clothes but don't seem to have the right thing when an occasion comes up... It will be interesting to see how I cope with only 2 of each item of clothing, if that! I hope I shall be judged for who I am, rather than what I wear!

Sorry, hope you don't get too fed up with my ramblings, they should get more interesting when I'm on my way, so hang in there, dear reader!

Flowers in my garden!

2007-09-09T12:17:00.000+01:00

Alex has kindly set up my phone so I can email directly to this blog, attaching a photo from the phone. Amazing! No need to search for internet cafes... So here goes... my nasturtiums!

Serendipity and plans

2007-09-08T09:36:00.000+01:00

I was out in Hayfield last night with the noisy pub crowd (Charles, Dancing Dave, Julie, John, Lisa) and met a new friend, Kath, who is moving to New Zealand soon, and also has a sister who is in WOOF (working on organic farms). Serendipity!

Perhaps I ought to mention my outline plans at this stage - set off November 2nd; 5 weeks touring Thailand, Laos (did you know it's pronounced Lao without the 's'? I didn't...), Vietnam and Cambodia.
Then on to New Zealand at the beginning of December, hostelling, hoping to do walking and pick up some work along the way (hence my interest in WOOF, above); then Oz, then USA. Plans very fluid... watch this space.

Taylor's blog etc

2007-09-06T18:13:00.000+01:00

I'm so excited because Taylor has put me on her blog and linked to me.
Thanks, Taylor! I shall bask in your reflected glory... I'm just trying to
work out how to return the favour and put a link in mine to yours
(www.taylorgiacoma.blogspot.com for my readers)- far too techie for me!

I'm making progress, folks - have had some jabs; not too nasty so far -
luckily I don't seem to react or be allergic to things (fingers crossed) -
hope the malaria tablets will be equally painless in effect.
I've got my visa for Vietnam and my international driving licence (it's
clean thus far!!!), and the building society are in the process of throwing
money at me.
Big problem now - how to personalise my very boringly black backpack. It's
just not me! I need flowers, smiley faces, pinks, yellows ... any
suggestions, please?

I'm testing adding a photo - this is my father and my granddaughter - simply
because I like the photo and want to share it with you all...

First blog

2007-07-27T19:35:00.000+01:00

OK, with just over 3 months to go, I'm ticking 'set up blog' off the list. Hoping to have time to play with this and learn how to use it easily before I take off on my adventure.

The idea is to set up an online diary, and give the address out to anyone who asks for it. I don't want to bore you all with my travels, but since you have been kind enough to show an interest I'll put the info out there - you can choose to read it or not!

Hope you find it interesting. I'll try to keep it positive whatever the conditions. Please feel free to post any messages - they will be most welcome.