Oops - did it again

Who is it that keeps putting these lead weights in my right shoe before I start driving? Still, I DID get a very nice chat with a charming man in uniform... pity his company came at a price though!
My last few days in New Zealand - I shall be so sad to leave these shores. The past week has flown by, and I leave Auckland for Sydney in five days time.
I have spent this week travelling up the east coast from Napier, having got over the excitement of "the boys'" success on the field (We are the England, the Mighty Mighty England... and so on!). I've stayed in a variety of establishments on the way. The first was a very small backpackers' hostel - in fact it was a couple of rooms in a Maori family's house. A mother with two children; father away working, and pretty chaotic, really. But interesting - I chatted for a long time with the 7-year-old daughter, and we compared dancing styles - she pirouetted, I ranted/polka'd. Lots of laughs all round. Then in Gisborne (first city in the world to see each new day) I threw caution to the winds and lashed out $40 (16 pounds) a night on my first bed and breakfast place. The contrast couldn't have been more stark - this was run by a little, very genteel, elderly lady whose house was full of knick-knacks of the embroidered toilet roll cover variety. I was her only guest and we spent two evenings together, comparing books read by our respective book groups, watching ER on television, and discussing the recent earthquake, which shook all her ornaments and books off the shelves and scared her half to death, poor lady. Very companionable, and a totally different experience from every other evening spent in backpacker places. Sadly my next hostel was not good - in fact I had one of my worst nights so far, due unfortunately to the rowdy behaviour of a group of mainly English young girls and lads who are working in the area, and seemed to be competing to see who could make the most noise and drink the most alcohol. On the whole though, I must say I've been impressed by most of the travellers - they are, for the most part, considerate, and sharing sometimes 8 or 9 bed mixed dorms has been surprisingly quiet. But there are exceptions! Today I have come to a town called Tairua - about 150 kilometres south-east of Auckland, on the east coast. I have a bed (not bunk, hoorah!) in a six-bed dorm, and it seems like such a nice place that I may stay until Thursday, when I'm due in Auckland. This place advertises itself as 'suitable for the more mature traveller' - which means over 30, as far as I can see! I've already had good chats with 3 women staying here; I've walked to the top of the local volcano, which juts out of the sea giving fabulous views of the surrounding coastline; and walked along Ocean Beach - lovely name, good example of 'it does what it says on the tin'?
As Saturday approaches, I'm becoming more apprehensive about my trip to Australia, bearing in mind my not-so-mild hysteria on encountering a snake in Asia. Being reassured that 'I've only seen one, and that was in the shower block' (thanks Frank!) hasn't helped. I may be very smelly by the time I leave Australia (and constipated - someone else helpfully told me to check the toilet for snakes and spiders before I sit down...aaaaaaargh!). No bush walking for me, anyway; I shall definitely be sticking to the cities.
The second picture here is the view from where I'm sitting at this very moment - as you can see, the sun is not shining today - but it's not bad, all the same, is it?! That's the volcano I've just climbed, by the way.
OK, I'm off to cook my boil-in-the-bag venison - speak to you again soon - maybe from across the Tasman, if not before...

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Barmy Army in Napier

Short blog as promised ... here I am supporting the boys - we are currently poised for victory - hope I don't jinx it by writing this!
It is apparently a kiwi tradition for the crowd to go and peer at the wicket during the lunch break. Not sure what they can glean from this, and can't imagine it catching on at Lords - shock, horror!
I've enjoyed the Barmy Army's community singing during the match, and the banter between the two sets of supporters has been gentle and witty in the main. It has been like a holiday for me - enforced sitting on the grass in the sunshine. Tough work, but someone has to be here to support the lads...

I've had a little free time to explore Napier - a unique town in that it was razed to the ground by an earthquake in 1931, and completely rebuilt in 2 years in art deco style. They were determined to make it a city of the times - and most of it is intact. They built 'tin city' - a temporary area containing shops and businesses while the town was reconstructed; this kept the town's finances healthy. I think of New Orleans and wonder whether they could have learned from this maybe?
I forgot to wish you all Happy Easter, by the way - it sort of passed me by, only really noticeable by the fact that the shops were shut on Friday and Monday. Hope you all enjoyed the break despite your snow (ha!). But just remember you are entering spring while I'm heading into autumn...
But just for now, I'm off for a hokey-pokey ice-cream, as it's still warm and light out there (7pm); and maybe a stroll along the beach...

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North Island Revisited

Yes, I'm back 'up North', making my way in a leisurely fashion up to Auckland for my flight to Sydney at the beginning of April. I've returned to Tongariro National Park, where I did my truly awesome snowy walk in December. Yesterday I walked from the eastern edge of the park to the western end, a track that took me seven hours and led between the bases of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. Hard going at first across desert - very soft sand, tiring in walking boots; but then through bush with rivers running through (lots of sparkling water over rocks, fabulous) - up to mountain lakes - picture 2 - (nice climb to stretch my legs!), past waterfalls and through beech forest. Didn't meet a soul for the first three hours, then very few thereafter. But why is the last half mile always the toughest? When I rule the world I'll make it a law that all walks have to end going downhill... Was very tired by that stage; not as fit as I like to imagine I am!
Since I last wrote, I've met up with Frank (picture 1) and caught up with his travel tales and plans for his forthcoming nuptials - all very exciting, it was great seeing him. I've stayed in a women's hostel in Christchurch, which was a bit like being back at my all girls' school, but very relaxing being able to wander around in underwear and watch girly videos.
I went to Hanmer Springs and thought it would be a laugh to walk up 'Comical Hill'. The joke was on me when I puffed up and around several very steep bends to the top and looked more closely - yes, it was 'Conical Hill'. Must get my eyes checked when I get home...
Went through a place called Crushington - what a fab name - almost as satisfying on the tongue as Glossop.
I've been to Cape Foulwind - shall I say it blew me away? Yes, no point in holding back on the naff jokes and changing the habits of a lifetime..!
Went back to Blenheim where I had the ninth visit to the cinema of my trip, to see 'Michael Clayton'. George Clooney just gets better... sigh...
Great trip across Cook Straits despite howling gale in both Picton and Wellington, and had a brilliant meal of local fish called 'tarakihi' in the evening in Paekakariki.
I have such trouble remembering the names of places here. People ask me 'where did you stay last night' and I say 'in a place south of here, by the sea and a river, beginning with W'. Then they try various guesses, as most places begin with W or Wh (or both - Wanganui can also be spelled Whanganui, in which case it is pronounced Fanganui) - I ask you, what chance do I have?
Another great bus driver yesterday took me to the start of my walk. We had dropped everyone else off to do the Tongariro Crossing, so had about an hour's drive. Another very knowledgable, interesting guy. In that hour we covered travel (of course), children and grandchildren, careers and relationships. Before you ask, Katye, he told me about his very strong marriage of 30 years - it was quite inspiring.
I'm heading off to Napier the day after tomorrow. Calamity had almost struck the other day when I was told that the cricket had sold out. But to my relief that wasn't true and I've got my five-day ticket (at the vast price of $NZ60 - about a fiver a day) and am all set to sit on the grass and cheer the boys on. I shall try and keep a low profile though, as I have been getting 'hate mail' from a few quarters regarding my obviously distracting relationship with Harmy. But hey, I did England a favour, right? They are obviously better without him! I'm looking forward to an exciting climax to the series, and hopefully making some new chums in the process. One hostel owner asked me (tongue in cheek) if I was having trouble getting accommodation, and advised me to change my accent...
Oh dear, my short blog just grew again like Topsy. Sorry, I'll do a nice short one next, promise! Bye for now...

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Adrenalin rush

I'm the one with the pale blue crash helmet!
Yes, I've had an exciting time since my quiet week (apart from the thrill of meeting Harmy, of course!) in Dunedin. I moved up the East coast of the South Island, stopping for a couple of nights at a high country 'farmstay'. This was a disappointment, as the advertised farm-related activities did not materialise (but then neither did any chickens, which was a relief for me). I was lucky though (something always seems to turn up) in meeting an American couple who took me with them to some sheepdog trials, which were surprisingly interesting as they have four different types of trial, using two types of dog - ones who use eye-contact as well as movement to control the sheep, and others who use their barking. The dogs race so far up the steep hills to fetch the sheep that they are too far away to see... Quite fascinating, even for a non dog-lover like me.
I moved on from there to a beautiful setting - Lake Tekapo. This very clear, blue lake is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. I walked up to the Mt John observatory - this is sited here because the sky is the clearest in New Zealand - no light pollution. At night you stumble across lots of people lying on the ground staring up at the heavens! The walk from the summit of Mt John and down along the lakeshore is full of magnificent views. I'm running out of superlatives here - I need to look at a thesaurus. The sun was out, so I spent a while just sitting looking at the vista, feeling very contented. The nights there were cold, though - autumn has arrived...
On my second day there I thought I should do an 'activity' other than walking, so I opted for a horse trek. I was a tad nervous, having tried it a couple of times a long time ago, and suffered from a lack of co-ordination vis-a-vis going up when the horse goes up, and down ... a bruising experience the previous time! But this time we went at a sedate pace, and my aged horse (19 years) was very tolerant of his inexperienced rider.
I took a day trip to Mt Cook village - this being the highest mountain in NZ. It actually lost 10 metres in height in 1991, when an avalanche chopped the top off. I had a brilliant day for my visit - the skies were clear, with only an occasional cloud obscuring some of the mountain, whose Maori name 'Aoraki' means cloud-piercer. I went on a tramp up a nearby track - very steep and challenging, but rewarding - reaching the point in the second photo. I resisted the urge to swim in the pool, as the nice young man in the picture was about to do. The corned lamb sandwich I'd made myself tasted superb up there - al fresco eating at its best! The third picture, if I can attach three again, shows Mt Cook itself.
I then set off on my last trip on the Magic bus, completing the circuit of the South Island back to Christchurch. This made me realise that my time in New Zealand is limited, and that I must think about the things I haven't done that are on offer here, and about which I might think later "I do so wish I'd done that".
End result of thinking:- yes, white water rafting on the Rangitata river. I signed up to this with a very naive view of what it entailed. I think I imagined that I would sit in a raft, nicely strapped in, while the current took us downstream. I'd get a bit wet, and it would be fun and exciting. Wrong. I actually had to play an active role, which, if I messed it up, would tip me and possibly the other 5 into a raging river. We were taken to their headquarters and shown a film of what would happen. Oh boy. I tried to escape at this point, but there was no way out. We were dressed in two layers of thermal jumper; wetsuits; 'bootees', waterproofs; helmets and lifejackets; and given an oar each. Then followed a long briefing in calm water which included 'what to do when you are out of the raft and can't get back to it or the riverbank, and are being swept away'. No straps to hold you in, incidentally - just one foot wedged under an air-filled shelf. Many instructions followed - I only remembered "Get down!" and "Hold on!" - which were the vital ones as it turned out. We were given the chance to 'wimp out' before the two grade 5 sections (grade 6 means 'unraftable' - lovely word! - if someone gets a raft down a grade 6 safely it is immediately downgraded to grade 5). But no-one else ducked out, so I felt obliged! It was an unforgettable, exhilarating and breathtaking experience, enlivened further at one point when we were completely engulfed in water and I got confused between "get down" and "hold on" and didn't manage to grab the rope; a scary moment. But I'm here to tell the tale, and glad I've done it. Another tick on the list of 'things to do before...'.
This brings us up to date, really. I'm now in Christchurch awaiting the arrival of Franky (a mate from my CIS days) and Michael next Tuesday - they are flying in from Australia, doing their trip the other way around from me. Meanwhile, I've decided (no surprise here) that I can't bear to leave NZ yet, so I've changed my ticket and will stay longer here, probably going back up to the North Island to see the towns on the East coast which I missed around Christmas time and flying to Sydney from Auckland in April (that also gives me a chance to catch up with the crowd in The Bog Irish Bar before I leave!). I might even catch some of the second and/or third test matches.
Another marathon blog, sorry, but I'm finding it all SO EXCITING and I want to share...!

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