O-O-O-Oklahoma!

Yes, I'm halfway across the continent - the furthest I could be from the sea - laterally speaking. Here's a taste of the differing landscapes I'm encountering; the first picture shows that after 8 months of searching, I've discovered my true vocation, and can stop looking...

The second picture shows me at the (literally) dizzying heights of Pikes Peak - after a VERY scary 19 mile drive to the top, following a very slow winding route on both sealed and unsealed roads at the edge of precipitous drops (wonderful word, 'precipitous' - I remember Auntie Eileen teaching a toddling Katye to say it...). This is the mountain which inspired the writing of "America The Beautiful"; I can see why. I felt distinctly wobbly from the altitude, however, so quickly descended, noting the signs saying "Warning - hot brakes fail". Oooh-er.

The third picture (out of sequence, but beyond me to remedy in a short time) is in Oklahoma City - a lovely park in which I sat and watched families enjoying a Sunday stroll. I found the city very difficult to navigate, entering interstate highways by mistake; on escaping these I stumbled across residential areas, then wide roads with nothing but car sales ... When I DID find the centre it was very pleasant ("Oklahoma City is oh so pretty") with a canal reminiscent of, but on a much smaller scale than, San Antonio's; lined with eateries and masses of flowers.

Fourth picture is Garden of the Gods, in Manitou Springs, Colorado. This was another of those places which make you gasp in wonder. I had lunch with a lady who moved to the area 40 years ago and visits the park every day - she entertained me for a couple of hours with stories of her upbringing on her daddy's farm, and tales of the wildlife she encounters daily - including a mountain lion on one occasion. Such encounters are the essence of this trip... (with the lady, not the cougar!).

The final picture shows the skiing slopes of the Rockies, seen from a mountain pass while driving through. In between marvelling at and exploring the ever-changing scenery, I'm enjoying the road trip. At times the road stretches out ahead and behind, and either side there are flat fields to the horizon, miles away; I'm not tired of this - the cruise control is set so that I don't inadvertently stray over the speed limit, and the radio can generally pick up a local station ("You Look Good in My Shirt" is the current favourite; I'll sing it to you on my return if you're really unlucky). If I'm out of range, I fall back on my 2 charity shop CDs: live performances of tunes such as "Sweet Home Alabama"; or the soundtrack of "West Side Story" - I have tissues handy so as not to blur my vision...

Travelling here is very different from my travels 'Down Under'. There are few hostels, so I'm staying in motels mostly. It is great to have the privacy of my own bedroom and bathroom, but I do miss having other people around. I found a great hostel in Breckenridge, a ski resort, run by an English couple who facilitate socialising between guests by serving breakfast at a big table. I met some lovely people of all ages - all Americans, with their own story to tell. My life has been so different from theirs! It is fascinating particularly to meet people who were brought up on massive ranches. What a contrast from my London roots! It is emphasising the thought that after 30 years of sitting at a desk, I want to do something less structured on my return. This has been a sort of trial retirement for me and I'm really looking forward to that period when you're not ruled by the 9-5 clock...

Manitou Springs has a charming village feel. It was full of shops with floaty, hippy, but currently fashionable clothes. On my first evening there was a concert on the lawn in front of the library, with locals gathering on rugs, chatting and lying back, relaxing. The second afternoon there was the weekly craft fair and farmers'market, with a band playing. I saw an advertisement for the "Pie Baking Contest and Ice Cream Social". Wonderful! I want to live somewhere that does this kind of thing... Midsomer perhaps?! No, too dangerous!

I haven't done so much walking this week - I was warned not to hike in Garden of the Gods as it was 115 degrees in the lower places. So I'm driving on, trying not to fall into the trap of sticking to the interstate highways - they leave you in a kind of Limbo where there's nothing real - just motels and fast food outlets. Even if you drive off at an exit with a town's name, you sometimes find that this is just a gas station and wrecker's yard. I have been lucky this time and found an albeit rundown, town with a library and hopefully a mailbox - your latest postcard is on the dashboard, Emma.

Heading for another National Park on the South-East edge of Oklahoma - hopefully with walkable temperatures. Until then...

Awe-Inspiring and Stunningly Beautiful

That's Utah and Colorado... My decision to travel by car has been a good one - I'm enjoying the freedom to wander at will, and am finding the most wonderful places to visit. The first couple of days were uneventful - driving about 700 miles east, just revelling in the luxury of my upgraded car (the rental company had no economy jobs left at my pickup time; I had to wait an hour, so they compensated me with a Pontiac G6 at economy price, and gave me an extra 10% discount plus an energy bar!) and a radio, auto transmission and air con. My road trip was underway! My first real stop was in a small town just east of Las Vegas. I hadn't bothered to stop in Las Vegas as I'd been there before, and anyway I got lost (again), so decided to carry on. I stayed for the night in a small town called Mesquite, in Nevada. I found a hotel with a casino attached - or was it a casino with a hotel attached? They rent the rooms at a very cheap rate, hoping you'll spend lots at the tables and gaming machines. WRONG! I just took advantage of the cheap drinks, swam in the pool, and enjoyed a luxurious night. Then on the next day to Zion National Park in Utah. The temperature now was over 100 degrees, but I decided to do a hike in the park up the Emerald Pools trail - a rocky walk to three waterfalls at varying heights - I had a lovely paddle in the top one. I was really exhilarated - wanted to blog instantly as I walked, to share with you all the sheer excitement I was feeling. The scenery is breath-taking - sheer walls of rock-face, with the Virgin River meandering between. I felt so good - exercise, hot sunshine, truly awesome scenery plus ice-cream (eventually!). All this followed by a trip to the theatre (only just made it - had forgotten to adjust my watch for 'mountain time') to watch 3 guys playing cowboy songs. An experience, is all I'm saying about that!
I travelled on to Bryce Canyon (pic 1), still in Utah - very different, but equally inspiring - not really a canyon, more an amphitheatre filled with rock formations call 'hoodoos' - huge columns of rock. I did a hike labelled 'strenuous' - 'steep grades with multiple elevation changes' - i.e. lots of ups and downs, but done in zig-zags, so manageable. Very hot, though, and high elevation, so literally breath-taking. A photo opportunity around every corner. I could bore you all for DAYS with a slide-show! It was a perfect day, topped off by the news from home that #1 son (ok, only son) Alex is now a BSc(Hons) with a 2:1 in Professional Broadcasting Techniques. Congratulations Al - I'm a very proud mum, and had to tell someone, so told a complete stranger, who immediately hugged me!
The driving in Utah is wonderful - I chose the scenic route, and it certainly lives up to its name. My next stop was at Arches National Park (you guessed, pic 2) - more formations as described in the name. I did several small walks here rather than one 'biggie' - was feeling a bit tired and overheated, so decided to take the easy trails for once.
Having thought at Zion that I'd never want to leave Utah and the Canyonlands, I was now a bit 'canyoned out', and ready to move on. So I drove to Colorado, and the surroundings changed from the huge rocky mountains, past huge plains, to greener fields. At this point I was stuck in my first traffic jam - caused by a combination of roadworks and a spilled load. We were stationary for nearly an hour, with the temperature at 85. Unaccustomed as I am to such situations, I didn't know whether I should leave the engine running for the a/c, or just the ignition, or just sweat it out... But eventually we got going again and an array of snow-capped mountains appeared before me.
I drove into Crested Butte, a ski village in winter and a hiking and biking centre in summer; that's where I am now. The mountains remind me of Austria - they are really beautiful. I took a shuttle bus yesterday into a small village 3 miles further on, called Mt Crested Butte. There I jumped onto a chair lift and travelled up almost to the top of the mountain - 12,000ft elevation. It was chilly enough for me to don my 'hoodie' for a while as I walked gently down a ski slope (pic 3) - now a gravel path, pausing frequently to drink water, take photos, gasp at the view, chat to fellow hikers and avoid the bikes. This weekend is 'fat tire (sic) weekend' - the mountain was teeming with downhill mountain bike racers. They come past you with no warning - it's quite scary at times. They also have to go over some jumps - I saw some come a-cropper, but no serious injuries, fortunately. In my usual fashion I got lost at one point and had to retrace my steps uphill. This made me realise why I'd been advised to get the chairlift up and walk down - uphill was hard work in the altitude, and I eventually decided, discretion being the better part of valour, and as I was running short of water (4 bottles consumed), to take the easy way - and leapt onto a passing chairlift going down.
So, in the past week - has it really been only a week? - I have enjoyed wonderful driving, breath-taking views, great exercise and luxurious accommodation. Last night I decided, having done some sums, that I must revert to hostel lodgings. My luck held - the hostel here is very pleasant, and I had my 4-bed dorm to myself. A single for the price of a dorm, with the bonus of people to chat to in the lounge - I had breakfast with a couple of teachers from Kansas City; very interesting to compare lifestyles. They showed me the paintings she had done yesterday after visiting the mountains. Such a personal reminder, as compared with my photos which don't quite capture the majesty of it all...
So, if you ever come to the West Coast of the USA, I urge you not to miss southern Utah and Colorado. I have been amazed and delighted at everything - to think I only came here for the fast food, and I haven't even mentioned it! Hoorah for American breakfasts, bottomless drinks, iced water, clam chowder and salad with croutons and blue cheese dressing!
Heading east again tomorrow to Leadville - 2 miles high, I'm told - guess that's more snow and sunshine - sigh, how shall I cope?! Cheers for now!

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Flowers in my hair?

Wow, I'd forgotten what a fab city San Francisco is! So much to do, so many lovely places to visit. This is the place to get fit - the movies don't lie - the streets are all ups and downs, and I think I've walked most of them in the last 4 days!
My heart sank when I arrived, as my hostel is not the best, despite a 90% rating on the net. They must have paid people to write good reviews! On the first night, the ceiling in the lounge collapsed, narrowly missing my Aussie 'roomy' Carol.I was the only one to enquire whether she was ok. Maybe if the staff showed concern they would be admitting liability? Then Carol's transformer melted in the wall socket. This will be checked 'in a few days'. We have contingency plans in place in case we catch fire in the night... Ah, the joys of travelling! The up-side of all this was the friendship with Carol - we teamed up with Canadian Sophia and hit the town one evening, going to the famous Starlight bar. We felt rather conspicuous in our scruffs, but the staff were as courteous to us as to those dripping with expensive jewelry! Last night we went to the theatre to see 'Tis Pity She's a Whore' by John Ford. Very bloody at the end - luckily I was up in the gods, but still had to look away...
The first picture is Crookedest Street- very pretty, but quite a climb to get up to it (unless unlike me you are sensible enough to take a bus/streetcar). The second, of course is the famous cable car. The guy behind me in the queue wanted to pay for my ticket... Earlier that day, I had gone up to hippy paradise Haight-Ashbury. On the bus, a guy started to advise me about which shops I should go in. He then told me not to buy drugs on the street, as they are poor quality. He patted his pocket, and asked me what drugs I would like. I told him I got my highs without the aid of drugs... he and another guy then proceeded to tell me how to avoid paying on the buses and cable cars. I know I'm not looking very smart (understatement) at the moment - but do I really look that destitute?
My favourite food so far (I love American food) has been clam chowder, served in a huge round sourdough bread bowl. You drink the soup, then eat the bowl and the lid. Yummy!
The weather has been typical San Francisco - a heatwave for the first couple of days, then chilly enough to warrant buying a new 'hoodie'. Today I had both climates - I rented a bike and cycled over the mist-shrouded Golden Gate bridge, battling against the wind - at one point I thought I might start going backwards - but when I reached Sausalito it was really hot, and I sat in t-shirt and shorts enjoying a sandwich and 'chips' at a sidewalk cafe, overlooking the sea. I ended up cycling 16 miles; not much for you regular cyclists, but a good distance for an amateur such as myself. I then took the ferry back and walked up millions (ok, hundreds) of steps to the Coit Tower - the patroness apparently liked firemen (can't think why...!) so the tower is a tall column looking like a fireman's hose. You get a very good view from the top, anyway.
While I was here in San Francisco I took the opportunity to look up my late friend Martha's family, who live in Berkeley - only 30 minutes on the train. Martha's mother met me from the train and took me to their house, where I had a lovely day with her and with her sister, who is a very lively 91-year-old. I very much enjoyed meeting them and seeing Martha's roots - they are very artistic, and have a house full of beautiful things, mostly made by members of the family. Quite apart from their relationship with Martha, making it a poignant occasion, it was also interesting to meet a real Californian family, and get their viewpoint on various issues, including US politics!
I haven't seen everything in San Francisco by a long way, and this is my third visit here, but I'm leaving enough to make a return visit sometime worthwhile.
I'm setting off tomorrow on my road trip, having investigated and rejected the Greyhound bus and the Amtrak train. Sarah (my sister-out-law) and Randy have pinpointed some places I should visit on my way, and hopefully will join me at some point. I'm aiming for Richmond, Va, to visit my friend Ros, from Louisville days; that's 3000 miles from here, were I to go without detour. Then on to New York.
So tomorrow I head East. Haven't quite worked out the finer details yet, but I guess if I point the car in the right direction, and remember to stick to the right hand side of the road, all should be well.

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G'bye Australia

I couldn't leave without updating you on my last few days here, which have included some real highlights of the trip. I've been pleasantly surprised at how much I've enjoyed the Oz part of my journey - I wasn't sure about it beforehand, as regular readers will know. The friendly nature of the Aussies has been a feature - I only have to open a map and pause for a moment, and someone is there offering advice. In the main, shop assistants and cafe staff have been helpful and chatty - one even invited me to her home - unfortunately my onward travel was already booked, so I couldn't take her up on it. The different landscapes have been truly 'awesome' in places; pretty sometimes; always interesting - even long stretches of road with seemingly endless fields of sugar cane are interesting to an English city girl accustomed to traffic and houses all the way...
Coffs Harbour, my last stop on the journey down the east coast to Sydney, was a lovely place. I arrived in the rain, to find one of the best hostels awaiting me. Maybe because there were not many people; but it was very well appointed - lots of space, friendly staff, and clean bathrooms and kitchens. Makes a difference to a long-term traveller! I ventured out, forgetting to change out of my jeans - mistake! I generally wear them when travelling, as they are lighter to wear than carry. But walking in them in the rain is a no-no. It takes SO long to dry out denim! Never mind, it was worth it, as I walked along the jetty and sampled the local ice-cream. Next morning I sensibly wore my other trousers. This time though, it was sunny and dry. I walked along the beach, looking out at nearby islands and the sun rippling on the waves - bliss. I then wandered along the jetty by the harbour towards Muttonbird Island, laughing merrily at a sign which said to beware of waves breaking over the rocks. Yes, you guessed, I was hit by a freak wave which completely soaked me - I was dripping from hair to trainers... so back to the hostel for a shower and unpack and change before getting on the Greyhound bus, carrying an extra plastic bag full of very heavy wet clothes... So goodbye to Coffs Harbour, but I'd like to think I might return some day.
And so to Sydney again. Saturday was an unexpectedly sunny day, so Fenella and I mooched around some lovely crafty shops and enjoyed a hot drink in a cafe, before going to the cinema to see 'Sex and the City'. It was a treat on three counts - one, the film was great; two, I had company; three, we both enjoyed it equally - it was lovely to be on a 'girly' outing again!
Yesterday I got up to pouring rain again - this on the day Nick and I were booked to go to the Blue Mountains with his bush-walking group. Undaunted we set out, driving for a couple of hours to a lovely place called Wentworth Falls. This was one of the wettest walks I've ever done! Through oceans of mud, up and down steep rocky steps. This walk alone justified the burdensome carrying of my walking boots around the world! I was very smug to be one of the few people with warm dry feet right to the end. BUT it was the most beautiful place to visit. I can't begin to describe the waterfalls we walked alongside, they were spectacular; the sheer force of the water was breathtaking - some very high sheer drops; some gentle slopes with the water rushing over the rocks. All in a fine mist, which although it masked some of the views, actually added an air of mystery to the surroundings. A walk that I shall always remember with pleasure.
Today is the queen's birthday - I'm sure you knew that? At least, today is the day the Aussies give themselves a day off work in her honour! Sounds a good idea to me... so Happy Bithday, Ma'am - I'll think of you as I pack for my onward flights tomorrow. Thanks, Oz, it's been great - look out USA, here I come...

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Breezy Brizzy

Hello from rain-drenched Byron Bay. Big storms on the east coast this week and I've copped 'em. Never mind, I had a couple of dry-ish but windy days in Brisbane. Loved it! Lots of green areas, especially down by the river. It's a big city, with:- craft markets; walkways, some floating on the river itself; interesting art - modern and sculpture; the city cat (water taxi which doubles as a cruise for visitors). On Sunday I was wandering through the flower-wreathed arbour walkway (pic 1) when I caught the sound of a piano - a brilliant young player at a sponsored event in a covered but open-access arena. I sat and listened until sadly he was replaced by a screeching soprano and I beat a hasty retreat. I bumped into lots of Aussies in gold and green shirts - I thought I was back in Bangkok on the King's birthday; but no, it was the World Cup qualifier against Iraq. Luckily the 'Socceroos' won, so there was a happy atmosphere in the city that evening. I stopped in a bar and had a Sunday dinner - including bread and butter pudding and custard. Yum! Then I went to the cinema (film 16 of my trip, I think!). Very rash of me to go on a Sunday - had to pay full price. Should have waited for 'tight-arse' (can I say that?) Tuesday when it's much cheaper - that seems to apply nationwide. Saw 'The Painted Veil' - very good, but I came out crying...
So I'm making my way south - had a lovely couple of days in the Whitsundays, island hopping, then down through Rockhampton, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn again; Maryborough (off the backpacker trail with really nice 'heritage' area by the river); Brisbane (Brizzy to us in the know); and now Byron Bay. I've just walked to the most easterly part of Oz, (pic 2) and got soaked in the process. I'm in a nice hostel, though, so will have a cosy evening drinking hot choc and reading in the lounge. On tomorrow to Coffs Harbour. I guess that will be another water-sporty place, but hopefully it'll dry up enough for me to have a wander by the beach. Then Sydney, and the enticing prospect of a few days of good company and comfort back with Nick and Fenella. Hoorah!

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