Koalas, kangaroos and medals

I've left the Victorians behind now - just couldn't get used to it when they referred to 'Victorian Police' or 'Victorian buildings'. I was looking for vintage items, forgetting I was in the state of Victoria. Now everything is marked 'SA' which in my head is South Africa, but of course is South Australia. Oh dear...
After another arresting experience - I went on a tour of the old gaol in Melbourne, where you are locked up and subjected to a taste of the old procedures - I hurriedly left and embarked (on St George's Day - I wore my 'Barmy Army' cap all day, of course!) on a 3-day trip along the Great Ocean Road towards Adelaide. This is a bit of a misnomer, as only about a third of the road is actually beside the ocean. It was a particularly calm day when we travelled the 'surf coast', so we had to imagine the waves and surfers! But the day was made by a trip into an area of eucalyptus trees, where we saw several koalas in the wild (confession - the 3rd photo is actually a cheat, taken in a koala park near Sydney). We were able to get up quite close, although the koalas stayed up in the trees. After a night in a pretty basic hostel in Apollo Bay, a quiet but pretty seaside town, we were picked up by another driver. He proved to be a stereotypical Aussie guy - racist, sexist - referring to his passengers as e.g. 'those Swedish sheilas' and making jokes about mean Scots etc, interspersed with political jibes. Or maybe I just don't share his sense of humour... Never mind, we decided to ignore him, and enjoyed the day, with a trip down to see the truly awesome twelve apostles - see second picture. They are crumbling as we speak, and are a wonderful sight, especially in the late afternoon sunshine. We then visited 'London Bridge' - a formation which partially collapsed a couple of years ago, leaving a couple stranded on the island formed from the broken arch. The story goes that they were reluctant to be interviewed by the eager tv crews when rescued - they were married, but not to each other...
We also caught sight of lots of kangaroos running about wild near the road - in fact we almost ran one over, they are so tame...
On next day to the Grampians, where the first picture was taken. We had a great walk up to the Pinnacles - huge rock formations. It was the sort of walk I really enjoy - lots of scrambling over rocks, and steep gradients. We were then picked up again by our day one driver, who proved to be very helpful - I had booked a hostel in Adelaide, but when we arrived he said to me 'It's very noisy - not your sort of place, I'd go to the YHA if I were you'. This turned out to be an excellent piece of advice - the original one has a bad reputation, and the YHA is the best hostel here so far - huge clean kitchen, plenty of places to sit and read quietly or watch tv, crisp clean cotton sheets like we had when I was a child - fresh from the laundry. Bliss.
My customary luck held when I arrived in Adelaide - I strolled down the road to get some milk and discovered a huge party in the street. Of course, Anzac Day! This is a huge event, commemorating the courage and staying power of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps who landed in Gallipoli in the First World War. In every city they have a dawn service and a big parade. I had stumbled across the ensuing street party - live bands, beer tents, hot dog stands. Lots of people in uniform, young and old, all sporting their own medals on their left breast, their family medals (parents', grandparents') on their right. I chatted for a while to an ex-serviceman who told me all about it, and said that on this day (a public holiday) everyone is particularly friendly and courteous to strangers in the street - it's a great atmosphere. Interesting in the light of current discussions in the UK papers about whether enough respect is shown to people in service uniforms, irrespective of whether one approves of current overseas military actions. I felt honour bound to raise a can (yes, a can - strange) of Smirnoff Ice to them, and to bop along with the music. Rude not to, I thought...
Adelaide is known as the city of churches, but I haven't noticed their presence any more than ini any other city. It's not a place you think 'I must go to Adelaide and see the...', but nevertheless, it has enough interesting places to keep a traveller here for a few days. Today I've been a few kms out of the city to Brighton on the tram, walking from there through Hove to Glenelg. It was a bit like being in Sussex, really, a bit chilly with showers!
I have been feeling the lack of company my age recently - the 3-day tour was full of teens and twenty-somethings; so I was amused to see on entering the kitchen this morning (Sunday) at about 8.15 that everyone else there - about 10 people - was, shall we say, 'mature'. I don't think 8 in the morning exists if you're under thirty and have no children! I had a nice chat with an English couple resident in NZ, before going back to my room after 9am and trying to find my toothbrush etc without waking my 'roomies'. The joys of shared living!
Off to the 'Red Centre' - Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru) next - watch this space.

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Melbourne - sporting capital

Hello from Melbourne! Many people recommended coming here, but couldn't really say why. Well, it's a lovely place to be. Lots of parks; modern, spacious squares; tall buildings to see from (88th floor of the Eureka Sky Tower a must!); sculptures in the streets; lots going on. The first day I was here there was a police band playing jazz in Federation Square - a little like the Triangle in Manchester - big area with steps for seating, and a large video screen. I was in heaven - men in uniform, playing saxophones - what more could a girl want (I chatted to one of them at the break, but didn't get a chance to test his embouchere...). The next day there was another band playing afro-jazz as an introduction to the jazz fringe festival just starting. Yesterday there was a show of Omani culture - lots of craft stalls and some music and strange but interesting dancing. All this in unseasonably warm weather - it is the equivalent of October here, but after a mediocre summer in Oz it is currently sunny. I take full credit for bringing good weather - it has accompanied me around the world pretty much all of the time so far...
I haven't spent all my time in the Square, though - on my first day I was given 5 booklets of walks around the city, of which I've done 3 so far. The first day I explored the little backstreets - lots of tiny cafes and very expensive clothes shops. The second day I walked by the river to the sports area - they are sports-mad here. There are several arenas, the major one being the MCG - Melbourne Cricket Ground. I did a tour here, standing on the grass; visiting the players' viewing rooms and their dressing rooms (bit stinky - the smell of stale male sweat lingers!); and the Long Room - not quite Lords, but not a bad imitation! Our tour guide was a Member - he and the others I met when looking around the new Sports Museum later were so enthusiastic. In the end I gave up asking questions as I felt I might be there for the rest of my year...
They don't just play cricket there - it also hosts Aussie Rules Football. The hunky young Dutchman who's sleeping on top of me in the dorm says I should go to a game even if I don't understand the rules - the atmosphere is magic, he says. But he hasn't offered to escort and enlighten me, so I think I'll save my dollars. As warned, Australia is proving more expensive than New Zealand. The NZ dollar is about 2.5 to the pound, whereas the Aus dollar is approx 2 to the pound. But you have to pay the same number of Aus dollars or more for the same goods or services.
Today I'm feeling very laid-back and unstressed (of course, what's to stress me?!). I've walked the 5 or 6 kms directly south to St Kilda beach via Albert Park which has a large lake with birds and boats to watch. I've walked to the end of the pier, and sat in the sun eating a chicken and avocado salad (why don't we use avocado more - it's fab in a salad!); I've lazed on the beach watching children build sandcastles. The lifestyle here is definitely enviable.
I've neglected to mention firstly the storm we witnessed on my last full day in Sydney - thunder and lightning over the harbour bridge, forcing the climbers to retreat - glad I wasn't climbing that day. Secondly, I've completely missed out a description of Canberra, where I stayed a couple of days before I got here (3.5 coach hours from Sydney, 8.5 hours from Melbourne; very long trip enlivened by chatting to 83-year-old Canberra resident) - Canberra is the capital city, chosen when just a tiny place because it is between the two contenders, Sydney and Melbourne. It was purpose-built and very well-designed. I did a city tour which included the new Parliament House. This made me realise that I've never visited the Houses of Parliament in London, which I must put right on my return...
Hope you like the contrast between the natural and unnatural in my photos - I'm told that a cow in a tree isn't too unlikely; it happens when flood waters subside sometimes! Enough - thanks for accompanying me on this part of my trip!

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For Martha

I'd like to dedicate this blog to my friend Martha, who sadly lost her battle with cancer yesterday. She fought bravely and long, and was an inspiration to me. She made light of her illness wherever possible, finding something to smile at in most situations, and taking an interest in my comparatively trivial ups and downs. There will be a Martha-shaped space at our girls' nights out which will be impossible to fill. I was privileged to be her friend, and my condolences go out to Chris and to the rest of Martha's family.

Having expected to compare Australia unfavourably with New Zealand on all counts, I have to tell you that Sydney is stunning. I love it; there's so much to see and do, and the harbour takes your breath away. If you were to walk the whole perimeter of the harbour it would be as far as from Sydney to Melbourne, I'm told. I've covered about 3 kms so far - a long way to go yet!
I've really fallen on my feet with my accommodation here - 5 star luxury:- a double room with ensuite to myself; beautiful house and surroundings; delicious food (gourmet packed lunches included); and wonderful company to top it all. Yes, I'm staying with Nick and Fenella (pic 2, in paddy field)! They even 'guested' me onto a trip on Sunday with their local bushwalking group. I'm being really spoilt - think I'll stay a few months... no, it's ok N&F, I'll tear myself away soon!
I'll have to give you a quick taster of events since I arrived, otherwise this will be a marathon blog, but so far I have watched jazz in the park; bush walked in the Blue Mountain region; explored The Rocks heritage area underneath The Bridge; ascended the Sky Tower and done the 3D, 180 degree screen, strapped into a chair 'Oz Trek' which swoops you through canyons, down white water rivers and so on; explored Parramatta; travelled down the river on a river catamaran under the harbour bridge into Sydney; toured the Sydney Opera House and, the highlight so far, CLIMBED OVER SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE!
To expand a little on some of this - can I urge any of you who come to Sydney (even the atheists like myself) to make time to visit St Patrick's Cathedral in Parramatta - it has been rebuilt since being mostly destroyed by fire, and it is absolutely beautiful. Very simple, very modern. I don't know how to convey to you the peace I found there - truly a place to linger and meditate.
The river trip gave a different angle on the harbour - seeing the bridge from below before my climb emphasised the sheer size of it.
What lucky star was I born under I wonder - my tour of the Opera House was very special - when we entered the main concert hall, the Sydney Symphony Orchestra was rehearsing Brahms' 5th symphony (I know, Daddy, before you rush to your keyboard to correct me - Brahms only wrote four; this was of course the Schoenberg piece of homage). Then when we went into the Opera Theatre hall, one of the principal male dancers of the ballet company was in solo rehearsal being directed by the choreographer. He repeated one phrase several times, then launched into a fairly lengthy sequence - a modern take on the ballet Swan Lake. I'm not fond of classical ballet, but this was a blend of old and new; fascinating and wonderful to watch. We were so fortunate in our timing of the tour. Nick, Fenella and I are returning on Sunday afternoon to listen to a 'Steinway Spectacular' featuring 8 grand pianos - should be good!
So, in conclusion, I want to shout "I DID IT" and wear the t-shirt, as I achieved a long-held ambition to climb the harbour bridge. This is a 3.5 hour experience, and I enjoyed every minute. We were kitted out in jumpsuits, then the essential belt to which all sorts of stuff was attached so that it wouldn't drop off or get blown away: a radio receiver and headset; handkerchief to wipe sweaty brow or runny nose ; baseball cap to stop hair covering eyes; fleece in bag; rain jacket in bag; and finally the piece de resistance - a cable to attach oneself to a metal strip winding along our entire route. Once attached, we were committed - no going back! After instruction and a practice on some ladders in the waiting area, we were off. Firstly we negotiated a long flat part alongside the metal framework to the end of the arch. The the ladders began - one person at a time. The worst part was changing from the top of one ladder to the bottom of the next, at an angle to it, with trains and cars rattling along below. Having negotiated these ladders, we were ready to climb onto the arch. This is a fairly gradual climb (although the lady behind me didn't think so!) until, after a few stops for breathers; photographs taken by the guide (we weren't trusted to handle a camera and hold on at the same time - or maybe they like their monopoly!); and looks at the view - we were at the apex. Wow! what a fabulous view - twice as high as the Opera House. We saw a raincloud approaching and hastily donned jackets, but it veered away, and we were left with a magnificent sight... blue waters, the Opera House, ships, scyscrapers ... fabulous. Well worth it, I'm very glad I did it.
There's still much to do here - I've had a restful day today, and am planning a ferry trip tomorrow to touch the ocean...
Until the next time...

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