Last days in the USA

Making the most of the remaining time, I decided to retrace my steps to Philadelphia, having glimpsed it from a train the previous week. So, bidding a temporary farewell to John and Taylor in New York, I climbed aboard a bus in Chinatown and for the princely sum of $12 (about six pounds), travelled the two hours back into Pennsylvania. I had no idea where the bus would stop, so when I spotted a sign for the visitor center (sic), I leapt up in excitement and managed to disrupt the whole bus - try alighting gracefully while getting past your neighbour in the aisle seat, extracting your backpack from an overhead locker, picking up the bottles which have flown out of the sides of your rucksack and rolled down the aisle, as 50-odd mainly Chinese people look at you in amazement tinged with annoyance... Well, it livened up the end of the journey!
I found Philly to be a very pleasant and interesting city. Lots of squares with fountains in which to sit and either read or people-watch; many beautiful murals - being added to all the time - they are worth a visit in themselves; lots of historical sites. I was lucky enough to catch the last tour of the day to the Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, and also the Constitution in 1787. I also avoided the queues for the Liberty Bell, by arriving just as it was about to close for the evening. The bell was made by British craftsmen, but actually cracked when it was being tested before installation. Hoorah for British workmanship! The penitentiary was fascinating too - built on the belief that solitary confinement would force a person to look inward and repent, so each cell was single with its own exercise yard. It was copied throughout Europe. Philadelphia was built on the principles of religious freedom - it was at one time the only place in the British Empire that a Catholic mass could be openly celebrated.
I also had my usual good fortune in catching a musical event down by the river one day; called "Fam Jam", it was a showcase of family bands in the vein of the Osmonds, Jacksons, Nolan Sisters... all youngsters and very enthusiastic. Live music and sunshine - can't beat it...
I treated myself to a couple of days in a hotel with an outside pool; the weather was hot, and dipping in and out in the early evening was like being on holiday! The lifeguard was good eye-candy too... But eventually I decided that I was cheating (and running out of cash!) as there was a hostel in Philadelphia - no excuse for not staying there - so I moved for the last couple of nights. It was perfectly adequate, but the largest female dorm that I've stayed in thus far - 28 beds in the one room. My earplugs and eye mask were resurrected for the occasion.
And so back for my final couple of days in New York. John, Taylor and I managed to dispose of some good vodka and set the world to rights - alcohol and good conversation are such a good mix; and I was privileged enough to be allowed to sit in on Taylor's practice session for her next gig this Friday in Boston, which sadly I shall miss. She is so talented - sitting in the apartment, eyes closed, listening to her play was the purest pleasure.
And so I have only one more journey left in this odyssey - and it is the most exciting of all - going home! Further musings to follow...

New York, New York ... Taylor's gig!

Throughout my travels I have carried my MP3 player, listening to a CD entitled 'Transatlantic Lammy', composed and performed, piano and voice, by my great American friend Taylor. Finally the moment had arrived - I was to see her perform live in concert in New York! The venue was a bar in Manhattan, called The Bitter End. It was a good setting - an intimate atmosphere, an air of expectancy. We were joined by some other friends, including Patricia and Jeff who were to accompany Taylor in places on respectively cello and saxophone (what a bonus for me - saxophone and piano are positively my favourite instruments!).
Well, what can I say? I had been looking forward to this event for months, and it well exceeded my already high expectations. Taylor has a beautiful voice, plays piano like an angel, and her lyrics say something to me, and I would guess to anyone listening. The highlights for me were 'Steel Up', which she dedicated to me and reduced me to tears; and of course 'Nearer than Closeness', for John. It was magical. Please do visit http://www.taylorgiacoma.com/ - and see what I'm talking about... (Apologies for the poor quality of my photo - you'll see much better on the website.)
I love New York! This is my third visit, apart from one night in 1982 when I was lucky enough to ascend to the top of one of the Twin Towers. Taylor and John live in a fabulous location overlooking the river. If you stroll out of the apartment you can immediately see the Statue of Liberty; you can easily walk to Battery Park and watch the queues of people waiting patiently for ferries to the statue and to Ellis Island, where the immigrants landed and were accepted or rejected. As I've visited most of the obvious tourist attractions before, I feel free to wander in a more casual fashion, and people-watch, which is always fascinating. Taylor can distinguish easily between New Yorkers and tourists from other states; I still think of 'tourists' as people from overseas; I guess the only tourists we get in Stockport tend to be non-Brits.
Yesterday I travelled under the river to Brooklyn and took in the Botanical Gardens - I must have seen a dozen or so on my travels; considering I can't tell one flower or tree from another, some people might find this a strange thing to do, but I just love wandering down grassy paths, beside streams, smelling the roses and watching pond-dipping children. This particular place has allotments for children - they all come one day in spring and plant or sow, and maintain their plot throughout the year. I think this is such a lovely idea... maybe if I'd had such an opportunity I would know a daisy from a daffodil?
Yesterday Taylor and I visited the Jewish Heritage Museum. As you will understand, this was a learning experience and a saddening one. The museum has three floors showing the history, the events of World War 2, and the present day. I need to return one day to complete the visit, as it was too much for me to take in at one go. One should really complete the tour, to end on an uplifting note.
We decided to lift ourselves with a cocktail and settled for a chinwag, cheesy chips and vodka at a table overlooking the river. This is the life! I could live here... We then collected John and headed off to a restaurant high in a skyscraper, where we topped up (considerably!) our alcohol levels - vodka, chocolate and Baileys all in one glass seems to work well... We were then treated to the most amazing storm I've ever witnessed - the sky was lit up almost continuously by brilliant flashes of lightning; just when you thought it was moving on, it flashed again, and again. Eventually the thunder arrived and with it torrential rain. Sitting so high up, watching this stunning display lighting up the misty New York skyline was truly humbling. We watched in awe and delight.
For some strange reason, I was late getting up this morning, and feeling not quite my usual sparky self. I had planned to backtrack today to Philadelphia, only seen thus far from the train. I may still make it; or I may go tomorrow. The joy of unbooked travelling at whim! I'll let you know what happens...

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Tubing Down the Shenandoah

I'm hard pushed to think of anything more relaxing than floating down a gently moving river on a hot day, within reach of a buoyant cooler filled with ice-cold cans! This was a trip organised by Ros's daughter Vicki for her church social group; she very kindly invited me along. Another 'first' for me, and for several of the 44 people who joined in, including Lily, aged 6 I believe, and Mary-Lou, who is over eighty. I enjoyed it so much that it was suggested as my new career that I should introduce tubing to the Thames - 'grey water rafting', someone suggested! We decided on the Thames rather than the Cam, as I felt that the punters might be a bit sniffy about a load of inner tubes encroaching on their space... It was a wonderful day out with lovely people, ending with drinks at Mary-Lou's house and a very American dinner out - most of us went for the breakfast menu (pancakes for me - mmmmmmmm!).
I had travelled up to Washington D.C. with Ros the previous day; we embarked rather foolishly on a city tour. The day was far too hot for this - walking was totally exhausting - we staggered from one patch of shade to the next without much relief from the steamy atmosphere, and when on the non-air-conditioned trolley we both nearly passed out... But I did get to see the sights of D.C. and learn a lot from the commentary, and got up close to the Lincoln Memorial, and all in excellent company, so I was content.
The next day I said a fond farewell to Ros and Vicki, promising myself that I shall not let 19 years go by before we meet again! I have 2 other daughters to renew acquaintance with, and 3 - soon to be 4 - grandchildren to meet, and of course I'm keen for Ros to see Katye and Alex again and meet my own granddaughter Emma.
So, on to my first train trip in the USA, from D.C. to New York. I was nicely settled in, backpack safely stowed, enjoying watching the scenery rush past ... wait, not rushing any more... ah, not actually moving any more... yes, the engine had broken down, taking the air conditioning with it. But hey, it got everyone in the carriage talking to each other, so all was not in vain. We were just outside Philadelphia, a city I've missed on my travels, so I wondered aloud whether I should hop off for a quick tour, and was told it was well worth a visit! Eventually, though, a 'rescue engine' chugged up and towed us into the station where we picked up our bags and walked.. to another train, and I finally arrived in the Big Apple only an hour or so later than planned; found my way via the subway with some advice from a friendly stranger, to the welcome sight of John's smiling face. Plenty of time to spare to get ready for the event to which I'd been looking forward with great excitement ever since I realised I would be able to attend - Taylor's gig. But that's another story - watch this space!

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End of the Road Trip

My road trip is over - I've said a sad farewell to my rental car, squashed my goods and chattels back into my backpack with great difficulty, and landed at Ros's house in Richmond, Virginia. My journey from San Francisco (3,000 miles according to the atlas) actually took me 5,031 miles. I knew I'd been lost a few times, but still...!
When I left you last, I was on my way to the river in Chattanooga. I enjoyed my lunch cruise very much; it was relaxing and informative; I was also singled out as the person who had travelled the furthest to be there. I was awarded 2 'moon pies' - a bit like Wagon Wheels, manufactured locally, but was told to pass one on to the Queen when next I run into her at a social occasion. Unfortunately it looked like it was going to melt before we could make contact, so I had to eat it... I was interested to see some Amish people on the boat - the men and older boys sporting long beards and trousers with braces; the women and girls in calico-type frocks and bonnets. I know that they do not embrace modern technology and wondered about the power driven boat; I didn't get a chance to question them, sadly.
The weather has been incredibly hot - tee-shirt clings damply to the back, fringe to forehead. It is very humid here, which tends to sap the energy a bit, but still wins over chilly English weather in my book! I have been through several thunderstorms, though - one of which forced drivers off the road, as visibility was practically nil.
From Chattanooga I've driven on a couple of stretches of the Blue Ridge Parkway, part of the Appalachian mountain range. This has been absolutely delightful, being almost completely forested with lovely streams running along beside the road. Such a contrast with the Rockies in the West. Both awe-inspiring landscapes, but totally different. The Parkway is a winding road with many stopping places, always with a view crying out for a photograph to be taken. It makes its way through several tunnels - all without lighting - only the car headlights, making this mildly claustrophobic wimp a bit fearful at times. I stopped at a town called Pigeon Forge, near Gatlinberg, which took me very much by surprise by being extremely commercialised - a bit like Blackpool, really! Lots of 'attractions' of the "Ripley's Believe It or Not" variety. I didn't stay long there, and headed for Asheville, in North Carolina. I loved this town - it had an obvious centre that I could negotiate, finding a parking place relatively easily; and a weekly samba-fest in the park on the Friday evening. I think the whole town must have been there, either playing some form of percussion instrument, or dancing. I thought it would be rude not to join in the festivities. Such fun! I want to live there...
I shall gloss over the next day; suffice it to say that not many people have the talent to drive 87 miles before realising it's completely the wrong direction. I thought I was heading East into Virginia; maybe the large sign saying "South Carolina" should have given me a clue. But in mitigation, I have to say that the highway directions are very confusing. One marked e.g. I26 EAST quite often heads off in a southerly direction. It is very confusing. REALLY. But hey, add another state to my total. So the next couple of days took me back through some lovely small towns to regain my route along the Parkway. My last night on the road, in Lexington, Virginia, was spend in a suite in a Days Inn motel - a coupon made it affordable, and the second television was very useful in settling my indecision over channel choice...
So that brought me safely to Ros, and my first period not on my own since I left Nick and Fenella in Sydney. It is lovely once again to be in good company and comfortable accommodation. Ros and I have had a lot of catching up to do, and the conversation has been flowing freely. I have explored the canal walk, the James River rapids (unusual in an urban setting), the Civil War museum; Richmond was the capital of the confederacy, and its fall to the Union troops signalled the tail end of the war. I had a very congenial evening with some of Ros's friends in a restaurant called Bottoms Up in an area called Shockoe Bottom - a place which was completely flooded in 2004 but is now restored and serving very tasty pizza. Ros took today off work and we wandered around the botanical gardens - very colourful and well laid out. I am enjoying being in one place for a few days, with local knowledge to guide me. Next stop Washington D.C., then on to New York!

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Pardon me Boy...

...is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo? YES, it is! Here I am, and what a great place! I came here on a whim - I had the choice when leaving Nashville either to revisit Louisville, where I worked in the early 80s, and go on to Charleston to see the setting of my current reading matter 'Scarlett'; or to go south. I chose the latter and haven't regretted it. After I left you last week, I headed for Fort Smith, in Arkansas, and had a pleasant day seeing the multiple gallows where outlaws were hanged, and the local whorehouse (from 'back in the day', not currently operational). Neither very uplifting experiences(!), but interesting; there was also a lovely riverside walk, which kept me happy. The weather has continued hot, hot, hot, with the occasional thunderstorm, but I've avoided the natural disasters not far off (fires in California, floods up north) thus far. I carried on to Broken Bow, near Beavers Bend National Park, hoping for a good hike; this didn't happen - it's more geared for families and camping, and the trails are not obvious enough for a spacially-challenged female such as I.
So, on to Hot Springs, just outside Little Rock. Bill Clinton was raised in Hot Springs, and they don't let you forget it! I found it to be a lovely spa town, though - on the lines of Buxton or Bath, with a lively history and pretty gardens in which to wander. I also managed a strenuous walk up to the Mountain Tower, then a climb by the staircase to the top for great view of the town and surroundings. I also went to an eve-of-4th-July party with sidestalls, country music (of course!) and fireworks. I felt a bit of an outsider as they celebrated getting rid of my ancestors - but everyone I spoke to was friendly, thankfully. One guy I spoke to says when he travels he pretends to be Canadian, as there's so much antipathy towards Americans at the moment.
I spent the 4th itself in Memphis. This has a lovely riverfront, and an island appropriately named Mud Island, which formed in the early twentieth century, but the focus is Beale Street, the Birthplace of the Blues. Lots of cafes, all with live music pouring out of the door. Also, being a holiday, there were bands and entertainers in the street. What better than to sit in the sunshine with an ice-cream, listening to blues/jazz? I have to admit here that I forewent (?) the required visit to Graceland - it was quite pricey, and I decided I didn't need to see where Elvis lived - hearing his music (everywhere!) was as good as a feast...
On then to Nashville - a place I had enjoyed back in December 1982. Either it has changed out of all recognition, or I'm thinking of somewhere else completely! More great music, though, so not a wasted journey.
So now I'm in Chattanooga, beneath Lookout Mountain, the southernmost peak of the Appalachians. It is quite commercialised, but I was happy yesterday to mingle with the vacationers wandering along rocky paths and enjoying the view at the top of seven states. I realised that I have visited 9 states so far - California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Oklahoma, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee and Georgia (for about 6 hours yesterday). Not bad going...
I ended the day on the Incline Railway - VERY steep, having a chat with some members of a sorority convention. In other words, a girls' week-long party. Sounds good to me!
I then checked into a motel run by a couple from Bradford, so another good chinwag, before my nightly swim and read by the pool (still haven't mastered swimming 'properly' with my face in the water, John), before a trip to the family restaurant for my dinner which nearly always includes huge salad and fruit with chocolate sauce in the price...
The only downer is that my cellphone oops sorry, mobile phone - fell into the vernacular there - has no display now - the backlight has stopped working, so I can't read any texts, or access any information. So if I forget your birthday or don't call, please forgive me...
I'm off now to the river - hoping for a cruise on a paddle steamer in the sunshine. Such a tough life...
PS Sorry, no photos - struggling again to find internet access, and library doesn't allow downloads...

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