Just mooching around Canterbury

Yes, I wasn't struck on Christchurch at first. It doesn't have the 'Wow' factor that I've come to expect everywhere I go in New Zealand. But I've become quite fond of it, and stayed in the area longer than I expected. I've hit lucky on my timing – the World Buskers' Festival is on, so I've spent a lot of time sitting in the sunshine watching very professional performers, all for small donations. Also, they are followed around by food stalls, selling great meals at much cheaper than cafe prices, and much better than I can produce in the hostel kitchen. I have also become acquainted with the steak and cheese pies recommended by Andrew – yum; but I shall definitely not have another 'hot dog' – the sausages over here are decidedly dodgy, and when stuck on a stick, dipped in batter and deep fried, they are to be avoided. Christchurch is very English – punting on the river Avon for example. It is a flat place with no direct access to the sea, but I did go on the bus yesterday to New Brighton, which had lots of surfers, a pier and a LONG beach (yes, I walked the length of it, then caught a bus back!).
I spent a few lovely days this week on the Banks Peninsula – about 80km south of here. Formed by volcanoes, as most places are here. Captain Cook thought it was an island, but it is a series of bays, very beautiful. I stayed in a smallish town – just a seafront really, with houses being built up the hill. Seaside houses are called 'bachs' – pronounced batch, not as the composer. There are a surprising number of differences in language, and sometimes I need a translation. The January sales advertised 'Manchester' – this is linen, apparently. The favourite ice cream here is 'hokey pokey' – vanilla with honeycomb bits. If you want sweet potato, you ask for kumara. When driving, it's the law that you signal at roundabouts, and you must stop for pedestrians at crossings – I'm constantly amazed that as I approach any roadside the traffic comes to a halt. Sometimes I've crossed the road when I didn't really want to, because I'm too embarrassed to admit that I was dithering... Also, on crossroads with lights for pedestrians, they stop all the traffic so that you can cross diagonally quite safely. All part of a slower lifestyle, and feeling more relaxed about everything.
Christchurch seems to have a higher proportion of New Zealanders to 'foreigners' than other places I've been to somehow. Maybe the festival has brought them onto the streets, or maybe tourists don't stay here long, using it as a stepping stone to more 'wow' places? I went to an outdoor theatre production last night, and there were lots of local references that went over my head. There are not many Maori people in this part of NZ, and also the Cantabrians (the region is called Canterbury) seem to dislike the Aucklanders intensely. Maybe it's a friendly rivalry, but seems more pronounced than say Londoners vs Mancunians.
I am beginning to get the hang of not doing much. It still feels strange to sit for a couple of hours in the same place – I feel that I should be exploring all the time, to justify being here and not working. I have investigated local work, but need to wait until next month when the season really kicks in and they may be desperate enough to employ a middle-aged woman without a permit. But for now, it's good to have time to just 'be', if that doesn't sound too pretentious. I saw a quote recently which seemed to sum up what was bugging me about my life ... "Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for, in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it."
Off West to Greymouth in the morning, via one of the most scenic train rides in the world, I'm told. Hoorah!

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Gone fishing!

Yes, here I am with part of my catch... I can now cross 'sea fishing' off my list of 'things I must do once in my life'. We also caught crayfish, which are actually lobsters - I took one back to the hostel and the owner helped me cook it. It was delicious, and the blue cod and soldier fish (in picture) which I cooked the next evening melted in the mouth - I've never had fish this fresh before! So I'm glad I did it, but although I'm generally a good sailor, all that bobbing about in one place in a tiny boat made me feel distinctly uneasy, and the gutting of the fish nearly finished me off (and that was just watching it - I didn't expect the blood that poured from the cod...). But hey, it's all experience!
This all took place in Kaikoura - famous for the crayfish and for whale watching. I didn't indulge in the latter, as it was extremely expensive, whale appearances were not guaranteed, and at least 50% of passengers generally 'feed the fish'. I passed on that one, and borrowed a bike instead - had to banish the ghost of the 'arrest' in Laos! - it was very rickety, and occasionally the pedals seized up and wouldn't turn, making it quite hairy at times. But it got me there and back; 'there' being the seal colony on the Kaikoura Peninsula and a lovely walk over the clifftops and back overland.
I haven't been busy doing things all the time. The weather this week, while I've still been at the northern end of the South Island, has been brilliant - up in the thirties (that's centigrade, in case you're saying that your temp's the same!). I've spent some time sitting around soaking up the vitamin D (for my osteoporosis, you understand, purely medicinal) and reading. I saw an article about Jeremy Clarkson, describing him as 'human marmite' - very appropriate, I think - you either love or loathe him (I love him!). I'm now reading a Paul Theroux book about his travels around the coast of GB in 1982 - what a miserable lot of people he has described so far; I hope it gets more cheerful as the book goes on!
I must thank Anne's Andrew for his comments - always good to hear from someone who has shared experiences - I wonder if you also ate mostly 'Pams' products - the cheapest brand I've found, although I'm sick of her muesli now! Indulged in a bought breakfast this morning - french toast, banana and bacon, drizzled with maple syrup and icing sugar. Yum!
My trip from Picton to Kaikoura on the Trans Coastal train was very interesting - nothing like an English train trip! The views along the coast were spectacular, and enlivened by a running commentary by the guard, and by the train slowing down when anyone spotted anything worth an extra look - e.g. a pod of dolphins close to the shore. Every minute stop was explained, such as 'we're just changing over drivers now'! The whole atmosphere over here is so laid back. We were an hour late getting into Christchurch last night, but if a few more people got to see some dolphins, what the heck?!
I don't know if you've noticed, but I love New Zealand! The scenery is, of course, spectacular almost everywhere - so green, although this summer is so good that it's looking a bit brown and dry in places; mountains, meadows, cliffs, rocks; it just goes on. And so much SPACE. Even the towns give a feeling of space; the streets are wide and everywhere is clean.
Christchurch is my least favourite place so far, but then I've only just arrived, so it may grow on me. It is quite flat, and has a river but no sea unless you get on a bus to New Brighton, which I think I must do. I'm heading off on the Trans Alpine train next week - a treat in store - but will be back here before I leave NZ, hopefully to catch up with the England cricket team... hoorah for the barmy army!
It's raining today, so I'm going to explore the botanical gardens - they will be 'fresh' in the drizzle - and maybe sip a mug of hot chocolate, cream and marshmallows. It's a tough life! Bye for now!

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Contrasts

From mountain lake to blue coastal waters ... This week has been a series of ups and downs, and that's not just the walking terrain! I have encountered heavy rain and hot sunshine; clear views of snow-topped mountains and misty scenes of northerly viewpoints; beautiful hostels with free helpings of chocolate pudding, ice cream and muffins, and smelly dirty unfriendly places; loneliness and friendship.
When I left you last, I was about to walk in Abel Tasman National Park. This was absolute bliss. I chose part of the coastal track - an easy walk in sandals (yes, still think they look naff, but SOOO practical!), incorporating drop off and pickup in a speedboat (fun!), clifftop walks (see second picture - oops, loaded them the wrong way round chronologically), a wobbly rope bridge, a laze on the beach listening to Katie Melua on the headphones and a paddle. This is the picture I have in my head when I'm trying to get to sleep at night - you know, the 'imagine you're on a sunny beach with the waves lapping at your feet' one... Magic! Top it off with the amusement for me of seeing a sign reading 'kayaking - no pervious (sic) experience needed'. ?!
After this perfect day, the weather turned inclement. I was glad to have the car, and drove up to the north west point of the South Island - called Farewell Spit. I didn't. Instead, I sat in a cafe, drinking hot chocolate and looking through the window at the rain, imagining the beautiful view. I managed a trip between downpours to Wainui Falls, where I enjoyed the fumes from a group of youngsters smoking dope - a feeling off wellbeing crept over me... Then on to the Abel Tasman monument, which was roped off. I couldn't make out why, my eyesight not being brilliant, but was told that some wag had hoisted a toilet onto the top, and it was considered dangerous. So I thought I'd go somewhere else in lieu - sorry - and went to the Waikoropupu Springs - the clearest freshwater springs in the world, they say. Very peaceful and a good place to meditate.
That evening I decided to go to the pictures in Takaka, a small town. This was a wonderful experience, in a theatre holding 50 people seated in a combination of cinema seats, sofas, and big cushions at the front to lounge on; it was like stepping back 40 years. The lady who sold me my ticket was also the projectionist, and ice cream seller in the intermission - yes, the film was stopped until everyone had made themselves comfortable and bought snacks. She asked me at this point if the volume was ok! Before the film and in the break, she showed photographs of locals at parties and fetes. At the end, no-one moved until all the credits had finished rolling. I was half expecting the National Anthem...! It was a lovely evening with a real community feel to it.
I'm now in St Arnaud, in Nelson Lakes National Park. It has been a beautiful hot day, and I've walked 10 km (see first picture) through forest, by the lake, over shale, rocks and streams and up to Whisky Falls - a very tall waterfall. I had intended to tramp up Mt Robert, but there were signs everywhere warning about alpine conditions which can occur in any season, and I thought as I was alone it was best to err on the side of caution. I had a very satisfying walk, and had no regrets. My hostel here is first class - I have a bed with no bunk overhead, the kitchen is clean enough to tempt me to COOK (tuna and fresh veggies!), and a wonderful view of snow-capped mountains overlooking the lake. What more could anyone want.
I've extended my car hire for a few days - love the freedom it gives me - so am staying in the north of the south for a few more days before I start my great train journeys south - watch this space. Ciao everyone!

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Paradise

That's where I am - 'Paradise Found'... only thing missing is you guys... I'm on the South Island now, and it just gets better. I enjoyed Wellington, my last stop in the North Island - had a lovely walk on the Southern Walkway above the capital. These walks are very well signposted - only I could get lost on them - but am still finding it a great way to get to chat to people (a scary-looking big guy [rugby player?] helped me out on this one - real gentleman despite appearances!). I also found a great sports bar one evening and watched the cricket while eating shepherds pie and drinking Smirnoff Ice...
The ferry trip is like a Channel crossing for the first hour until you reach the coast of the South Island, when it becomes magical - you head inland through fjord-like passageways of water between towering hills and islands. These are the Marlborough Sounds - formed by river beds due to the land rising from the movement of tectonic plates. The weather was misty, which just added to the atmosphere. A young Wellingtonian guy added to my day by giving me a historical and geographical commentary. It was a shame to arrive, really!
Picton is a small town on a little harbour, and is delightful. I saw the New Year in on the waterfront in company with the whole town, I think, and a band playing 'babyboomer' classics. And I entered 2008 first, folks! (Fiji is West, apparently, so New Zealand IS the first country to reach the new year). Beat y'all to it! Happy New Year to you all, anyway!
Picton is the starting point for the Queen Charlotte Walkway - the whole walk is 71 km so there are huts to stay in on the way. These are already full at this time of year, though, so you can get a boat to a start point and get picked up further along the walk a few hours later, which is what I did, travelling on the mail boat, which also stops at various jetties to - guess - yes, deliver the mail! This was a fabulous day's walking - up and down and rocky enough to be interesting, but not TOO challenging; all with great views of the Queen Charlotte Sound. The second picture shows a view from the walk. Reminiscent of Guernsey cliffwalks?
The weather, after a disappointing start to my NZ trip, has now changed to brilliant, hot sunshine. I am in heaven! I decided to blow some Christmas money on hiring a car for a week, so that I could reach places the Magic Bus doesn't go, and it is a great success thus far. True freedom! And fun to drive an automatic again. It's reasonably cheap (about 100 pounds for the week) but that's not sustainable for the whole trip, obviously. Yesterday I drove from Picton along the north coast, stopping on impulse to do an hour's circular cliff walk. I know, that doesn't seem to make sense, but it was a promontory, really. It was just perfect - blazing sunshine interspersed with shady glens. I couldn't believe how lucky I am. I just keep thinking 'Wow'. That's probably the full extent of my vocabulary - my brain has started to shut down, I think. I attempted an 'easy' sudoku the other day and had to give up - so I've now bought a whole book of 'em and am trying to exercise my brain regularly. It's easier to carry than my book, too - I like to have something to occupy me as I laze in the sunshine on a snack break on my walks - but why have I started reading a 900-page book? It's a good one, but weighs a TON!! Today I've driven to Motueka, a start point for Abel Tasman National Park walks. I decided to drop in on Nelson on the way, and discovered a jazz festival in progress. What serendipity! Is there anything better than listening to jazz in hot sunshine? I don't think so... although some of you 'folkies' may disagree!
Thanks again for all your comments and news. Once again, hope you don't mind that I only reply sporadically, I do appreciate them so much...
Off to pack my day bag for Abel Tasman tomorrow. Sweet as...
A la prochaine!

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