Ha Noi, Viet Nam + culture shock

Hi everyone, just back from an evening at 'Funky Monkey' bar in Ha Noi. They start early and close early here - 11.30 finish. Bit disappointing - no-one over the age of 30 there to talk to, let alone dance with. Does no-one approaching my age like club music? (Excluding Jivin Jon n Dancing Dave of course).
So much to tell you since my last missive. Our night in the homestay in a Laos village was 'interesting'. We stayed in two rooms in a family home - they set out thin mattresses with mosquito nets in rows - we looked like larvae in cocoons! No mod cons except one toilet and a cold tap with river water. But they cooked us a fabulous meal, and we had a good time with them. The locals are friendly without exception. (See picture of village children.) The grandmother of the house came and put her arm around me and made me very welcome. They live in a hut raised above the ground, next to the river. Their boats are engine casings from B52 bombers, with outboard engines attached. View of river by village attached.
We then moved on to Viet Nam, which was a complete shock to our systems - firstly, IT RAINED. The border was in the mountains, and it was wet and misty and chilly. Then the terrain changed from lovely green mountains to flat brown plains, with continuous houses and traffic. The population is huge here, in contrast to Laos. There are practically no private cars - just buses, trucks, motor bikes and bicycles. Sometimes there are up to 6 people on a motor bike. If it's raining, they cover up the whole family with a cape, so the poor children in the middle see nothing. I was in the front seat of the bus for a while - terrifying, as there are no rules. The driver sees a gap (on either side of the road), toots his horn, and goes for it, weaving in between bikes and trucks coming from any direction. The same is true for crossing a road on foot - you have to move continuously, trusting that traffic will find a way around you. If you hesitate, you are lost...
So we had a grey, scary first day, and were all pretty depressed.
But the next day it all changed when we got to Halong Bay on the East coast. The sun came out and we sailed forth into a sparkling sea, between rocky, green hilly islands, stopping at one for a swim. I climbed to the pagoda at the top of the island (400+ steps), and earned my swim. We stayed on board for the night, eating a nine course meal for lunch, and a ten-course one for dinner. Have no fears for me, dear friends, I am eating very well and am in no danger of wasting away... Third picture is of sunset over Halong Bay.
Today we have come to Ha Noi - the capital of Viet Nam.It is a very busy city, but still not too Western. I find each new city very daunting at first, and cannot imagine finding my way around alone. But within a few hours I feel more confident and am ready to explore. We went to see a performance of the water puppets this evening. Very entertaining, I thought (the younger members of our party were bored to death). I found the music interesting - the stringed instrument was like a banjo in places, and the singing quite beautiful. One scene of the puppets had 8 of them dancing in formation - just like the Jemmers, really!
This city is so noisy - the horns are blaring continuously, and the pavements are full of either parked motorbikes, or people eating. There seems to be food everywhere - seemingly you can just set up a little barbecue anywhere you like and cook on it. Maybe this is my new career... ok, ok, first I have to learn to cook.
It is now twenty past midnight and my two 'roomies' went to bed an hour ago, so I'd better creep in and join them. Wehave a couple of days in Ha Noi before setting forth on our second train overnighter ('something you only want to do once', according to our guide. Might 'speak' toyou again before that... Good night all!

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