Great drive from Hue to Hoi An, which is on the coast. We went over the Hai Van Pass - hairpin bends through mountains on the coastline - quite beautiful, with waterfalls and trees. We stopped at a beach, where I paddled (of course!), but nearly came to grief as a sudden huge wave nearly knocked me over. All I suffered was a damp skirt and injured pride, however. We stayed in Hoi An for a couple of full days. They are recovering from much worse than usual flooding. We had a cycle ride through the countryside (I managed not to get arrested this time!) and were on paths which had been 4ft under water 7 days ago (see picture of me crossing a makeshift bridge over the floods). It has been just as bad in the town - in order to get to our restaurant that evening, we had to climb over a pathway made of dining chairs, as the water was up to our knees!
Hoi An is 'bite city' - maybe because of the flood waters. We have all had nibbles taken out of us, and I have some lovely red patches all over my legs and feet. Nothing that alternate applications of antihisan and tiger balm (maybe from one of the tigers beaten by the elephants previously?!) can't sort out. This is also the place to get clothes hand made. There are probably a hundred shops, maybe even more, which offer to make up anything from a pattern within 24 hours. The shopkeepers are very persistent and I find it tiresome - you can't look at any wares without someone saying 'you buy from my shop, please'? with the result that I pass by quickly and don't see anything. So I wasn't too impressed with Hoi An, although it was a favourite with some of my companions - the shoppers! The coastline between Da Nang, where the Americans landed, and Hoi An is being massively developed - you won't recognise the place in ten years' time, which is a shame, but will bring them some properity, I guess.
We are now in Ho Chi Minh City (was Saigon, and all the locals still call it that). The traffic here is 'mental' (expression used often by my young fellow travellers). Four million motorbikes in the city - new career choice - motorcycle mechanic iin Saigon? - see picture. This is the biggest city in Vietnam, but not the capital (Ha Noi, you recall!). We have been to visit the Cu Chi tunnels today - must admit that I chickened out of going down. This is a network of tunnels with living quarters too, on 3 levels underground, where the Viet Cong (South Vietnamese who were aligned with the North) hung out with some villagers too. The VC were very small, so the tunnels are extremely narrow - the lowest level are for crawling... shudder. I've since been to the War Remnants museum, which shows, amongst lots of war memorabilia, the ongoing deformities caused by agent orange. What justification can there possibly be for chemical warfare, I wonder...
To end on a lighter note, I'm impressed by the two-person bikes here - only two wheels, but two saddles (one over the rear wheel) and elongated pedals so that you can both pedal together. Looks fun!
Going to try and attach the photos now - a slow business. Off to Cambodia in the morning - Pnomh Penh (not sure if that's the correct spelling, I'll let you know).
Thanks for all the news from home, enjoying it, keep it coming!
PS The third picture is especially for you, Bill, the musical dustcart - video is on my phone, will play it on request on my return... it sounds like an ice cream van and lets people know to bring out their rubbish - ingenious. Hope there's enough detail for identification!!
PPS I'm getting really good with chickens - you have to be in Vietnam - there's one heck of a lot of 'em!!
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4 comments:
really good to talk to you this morning mummy, although i thought i had the tears under control but apparently not!
keep updating me with all your amazing stories, love you loads. xxx
Mmmm, must say I didn't think you'd be keen on going down the Cu Chi tunnels. I don't think I'd even fit down - shame!
Finally got some new shoes yesterday - although it was Marie who went out and picked them out for me as I was confined to the house with this Mcconnell bug, which first affected Grandma at the most unfortunate of times - when Liz, Sam, Jamie, Dad and myself were visiting. So far, Katye, Liz and myself have been victims, but Katye and I seem to be OK by today. Phew!
Can't wait to hear about Cambodia! What will be your first western meal (when you find a place that does it)? I think Mine would have to be a huge steak of some kind, or bangers and mash with gravy... OK, it's lunchtime here, so must dash!
Lots of love & missing you
xxx
Congratulations on the chicken thing!!!
You are having more than a life-changing experience, this is a new life! Sounds as if you are certainly having a memorable time; Can't say that we are particularly envious of all that water. It has been raining a lot here - cold rain and hail if you can remember what that was! Congratulations with dealing with the chickens, but have you eaten any of the most prized delicacies? - claws and eyes spring to mind.Have just started doing the Christmas cards, but you are off our list this year - will have to make do with a @comment@ at the appropriate time.
Keep up the cycling - Aunty Eileen says hi - you are braver than her!
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