Friday, 25 January 2008

Just mooching around Canterbury

Yes, I wasn't struck on Christchurch at first. It doesn't have the 'Wow' factor that I've come to expect everywhere I go in New Zealand. But I've become quite fond of it, and stayed in the area longer than I expected. I've hit lucky on my timing – the World Buskers' Festival is on, so I've spent a lot of time sitting in the sunshine watching very professional performers, all for small donations. Also, they are followed around by food stalls, selling great meals at much cheaper than cafe prices, and much better than I can produce in the hostel kitchen. I have also become acquainted with the steak and cheese pies recommended by Andrew – yum; but I shall definitely not have another 'hot dog' – the sausages over here are decidedly dodgy, and when stuck on a stick, dipped in batter and deep fried, they are to be avoided. Christchurch is very English – punting on the river Avon for example. It is a flat place with no direct access to the sea, but I did go on the bus yesterday to New Brighton, which had lots of surfers, a pier and a LONG beach (yes, I walked the length of it, then caught a bus back!).
I spent a few lovely days this week on the Banks Peninsula – about 80km south of here. Formed by volcanoes, as most places are here. Captain Cook thought it was an island, but it is a series of bays, very beautiful. I stayed in a smallish town – just a seafront really, with houses being built up the hill. Seaside houses are called 'bachs' – pronounced batch, not as the composer. There are a surprising number of differences in language, and sometimes I need a translation. The January sales advertised 'Manchester' – this is linen, apparently. The favourite ice cream here is 'hokey pokey' – vanilla with honeycomb bits. If you want sweet potato, you ask for kumara. When driving, it's the law that you signal at roundabouts, and you must stop for pedestrians at crossings – I'm constantly amazed that as I approach any roadside the traffic comes to a halt. Sometimes I've crossed the road when I didn't really want to, because I'm too embarrassed to admit that I was dithering... Also, on crossroads with lights for pedestrians, they stop all the traffic so that you can cross diagonally quite safely. All part of a slower lifestyle, and feeling more relaxed about everything.
Christchurch seems to have a higher proportion of New Zealanders to 'foreigners' than other places I've been to somehow. Maybe the festival has brought them onto the streets, or maybe tourists don't stay here long, using it as a stepping stone to more 'wow' places? I went to an outdoor theatre production last night, and there were lots of local references that went over my head. There are not many Maori people in this part of NZ, and also the Cantabrians (the region is called Canterbury) seem to dislike the Aucklanders intensely. Maybe it's a friendly rivalry, but seems more pronounced than say Londoners vs Mancunians.
I am beginning to get the hang of not doing much. It still feels strange to sit for a couple of hours in the same place – I feel that I should be exploring all the time, to justify being here and not working. I have investigated local work, but need to wait until next month when the season really kicks in and they may be desperate enough to employ a middle-aged woman without a permit. But for now, it's good to have time to just 'be', if that doesn't sound too pretentious. I saw a quote recently which seemed to sum up what was bugging me about my life ... "Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for, in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it."
Off West to Greymouth in the morning, via one of the most scenic train rides in the world, I'm told. Hoorah!


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3 comments:

Unknown said...

You're making me very jealous. I can really relate to your quote, for here I am still at work at 7pm on a Friday. I need my head examined. When are you planning to be in the USA? Email me!

Anonymous said...

Hello Sis,

Sounds like your still enjoying yourself sitting around taking in the surroundings, the buskers sound right up your street folky type people. Things are fine here heads down looking for the first signs of spring had some very heavy rain and high winds loverly stuff.
Keep the reports coming what with yours and Debs from half way up a mountain in Argentina it takes our minds briefly off of things here.

Best Wishes
Little Bruv

Anonymous said...

Hi it’s Anne’s Andrew again!

Sounds like you are having a great time over there. After avoiding winter (due to the time zone cross over I did) I am certainly feeling it now and envy the January summer you must be getting!

I remember Pams food very well. I am trying to remember any other kiwi traditions that you haven’t already mentioned. Hokey Pokey ice cream, New Zealand ‘hot dog’ (which I agree with were not very good either!) and Manchester bed linen, I remember them all! They really like things cheap don’t they? Not that was a bad thing but I remember them advertising the $2 dollar shop on tv and found it pretty strange.

Like you said it is a much slower lifestyle and although I enjoyed the in-between breaks I always felt I should be doing something more. Can’t say I miss working in the Watties factory much, or the wood factory for that matter but all the best finding work. The best work I found over there was working on a dairy farm. I didn’t get paid but they provided food and board for free as long as I helped out here and there. I found that very rewarding and looking back was something I should have done more of.

The thing I missed the most was the bourbon (whisky and coke in a can, genious!) It was quite a big thing over there and they were proud of their ales which I have to confess I don’t think I have had a pint of Carling since coming back home, dreadful stuff!

Be sure to visit Queenstown. Don’t be put off to much that it is the ‘party’ town of the South Island. The scenery is something quite spectacular. The view at the top from the cable car (or you can hike like me, going up wasn’t so bad. Got completely lost on the way down!) Is worth the visit alone. Along with a Glacier town, they were definitely my favourite stops on the south island.
Hope the steak and cheese pies takes off over here, or maybe I will have to resort to nz ebay!