Tuesday, 19 February 2008

The 'Stewart Island Experience'

Here I am, as far south as I'm ever likely to travel, and this is the welcome I get...!
I thought this was going to be a quiet week, but it's been really quite eventful, all through unexpected happenings, which I suppose is what this uncharted tour is all about. I started the week in Queenstown, where I last caught up with you I think, and did one of my "I'll just take a quick stroll" walks, ending up tramping to the top of the cable car ride, from whence comes the second photo, of Q'town and the Remarkables (winter skiing). I felt the climb was exciting enough, and didn't join the intrepid bungy-jumpers and paraglider(er)s leaping off the hill. It was an exhilarating climb, and the view as you can see was worth the effort.
I then took my aching legs to a ceroc class that evening. On a smaller scale than I'm used to, and I found the style slightly different, but I was able to have a go, with people being very friendly and local. This led to an invitation to join a group of them at a dinner and cabaret the following evening, the highlight being three young men in DJs, calling themselves 'The Rat Pack', singing standards to a backing track. I found it pretty dire, but everyone around me seemed to enjoy it, so I tapped my foot and smiled enthusiastically. It was a pleasant evening despite the 'entertainment', as I chatted to some locals and had a couple of dances, along with a good dinner.
On to Invercargill next. Not sure what to say about this town, except that it has some nice parks, and some factory areas that are not so appealing. It seems like the most functional place I've been to - let's just say that if I emigrated to New Zealand this is not the town I'd choose to settle in. But each to their own...
My next destination was Stewart Island, just off the south coast of the South Island. I stopped off for a night in Bluff, the ferry town. 'Why would you want to do that?' I've been asked, and indeed it doesn't have much to recommend it - I blinked and missed the main street, and was advised not to spend the evening in the local bar - it did look a bit dodgy. BUT, there were a couple of really nice walks within reach, so I enjoyed my short stay. I was kept awake during the night by the wind howling around the hostel, which didn't bode well for the ferry crossing. I was right to be apprehensive - it turned out to be the worst crossing they have had for months - we were all given green fluorescent earplugs along with our sickbags - it was quite comical really - 100 people with green ears, passing bags to and fro to the two stewards, who did a fantastic job. I discovered to my releief that my queasiness on the fishing trip must have been a one-off, as I actually enjoyed the ferry trip, and now have no need to spend money on a jet-boat ride - this was way more exciting!
The weather was pretty dull on arrival in Stewart Island, so I set off for another of my 'little strolls'. Five hours later... ! As the day progressed and the sun appeared, more little islands appeared out of the mist, and my clifftop walk was beautiful. Hardly a soul there, completely deserted beaches. No ice cream though :-(
Stewart Island is much bigger than I thought, and a trampers' paradise. One main town - Oban - and most of the rest undeveloped. The main track is a 12-day effort, carrying all your needs except water on your back, staying in communal huts, or tents. I passed on this - I really need a sherpa. Must remember next time to pack one...
My second day on the island I set off actually prepared for a longish walk, taking supplies of food and drink, and a vague map of sorts. I stuck to the cliffwalks and thus managed not to get too lost, although I did manage to walk across a golf course, not noticing the 'Danger - keep out' sign until I was much too far up a steep hill to think of turning back. (Was the danger the nearby cliff edge or the golfers I'd irritated? Who knows - luckily I didn't find out). I stopped for lunch and invested a corned beef sandwich in luring a friendly fellow Brit into my company for the rest of the day. We shared a sense of humour and enjoyed winding up another couple we met on the track by confusing them totally about the length of our friendship. They took it in good part, though, so a good time was had by all...
I'm back in Invercargill now, and have just booked the next few days' travel. What new adventures will befall me? Who will I meet along the way? Watch this space...

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3 comments:

cmryan said...

Another fascinating entry - wish I was there too. Today was the first family day holiday in Ontario - not popular with everyone particularly those who did not get the day off! I did manage to go for a walk in the damp and slush and found 2 people fishing off the end of the pier! They looked pretty cold and didn't seem to have caught anything. Looking forward to your next adventure.

Anonymous said...

Glad you made it to Stewart Island - it has many memories for me including the one where a kiwi kissed my foot . Magical. Do they still have round stamps down there? You are doing lots of great walks - a pleasure when you have no real time constarints.
I similarly enjoyed the glaciers! Keep up the good blog. I'm still on the look out for work as got 3 refusals this week. Lots of love Richard

Anonymous said...

Oh dear you've let those kiwis have a laugh at your expense. The large green earplugs were there to amuse the ferry crew not to prevent your sea sickness!