Contrasts

From mountain lake to blue coastal waters ... This week has been a series of ups and downs, and that's not just the walking terrain! I have encountered heavy rain and hot sunshine; clear views of snow-topped mountains and misty scenes of northerly viewpoints; beautiful hostels with free helpings of chocolate pudding, ice cream and muffins, and smelly dirty unfriendly places; loneliness and friendship.
When I left you last, I was about to walk in Abel Tasman National Park. This was absolute bliss. I chose part of the coastal track - an easy walk in sandals (yes, still think they look naff, but SOOO practical!), incorporating drop off and pickup in a speedboat (fun!), clifftop walks (see second picture - oops, loaded them the wrong way round chronologically), a wobbly rope bridge, a laze on the beach listening to Katie Melua on the headphones and a paddle. This is the picture I have in my head when I'm trying to get to sleep at night - you know, the 'imagine you're on a sunny beach with the waves lapping at your feet' one... Magic! Top it off with the amusement for me of seeing a sign reading 'kayaking - no pervious (sic) experience needed'. ?!
After this perfect day, the weather turned inclement. I was glad to have the car, and drove up to the north west point of the South Island - called Farewell Spit. I didn't. Instead, I sat in a cafe, drinking hot chocolate and looking through the window at the rain, imagining the beautiful view. I managed a trip between downpours to Wainui Falls, where I enjoyed the fumes from a group of youngsters smoking dope - a feeling off wellbeing crept over me... Then on to the Abel Tasman monument, which was roped off. I couldn't make out why, my eyesight not being brilliant, but was told that some wag had hoisted a toilet onto the top, and it was considered dangerous. So I thought I'd go somewhere else in lieu - sorry - and went to the Waikoropupu Springs - the clearest freshwater springs in the world, they say. Very peaceful and a good place to meditate.
That evening I decided to go to the pictures in Takaka, a small town. This was a wonderful experience, in a theatre holding 50 people seated in a combination of cinema seats, sofas, and big cushions at the front to lounge on; it was like stepping back 40 years. The lady who sold me my ticket was also the projectionist, and ice cream seller in the intermission - yes, the film was stopped until everyone had made themselves comfortable and bought snacks. She asked me at this point if the volume was ok! Before the film and in the break, she showed photographs of locals at parties and fetes. At the end, no-one moved until all the credits had finished rolling. I was half expecting the National Anthem...! It was a lovely evening with a real community feel to it.
I'm now in St Arnaud, in Nelson Lakes National Park. It has been a beautiful hot day, and I've walked 10 km (see first picture) through forest, by the lake, over shale, rocks and streams and up to Whisky Falls - a very tall waterfall. I had intended to tramp up Mt Robert, but there were signs everywhere warning about alpine conditions which can occur in any season, and I thought as I was alone it was best to err on the side of caution. I had a very satisfying walk, and had no regrets. My hostel here is first class - I have a bed with no bunk overhead, the kitchen is clean enough to tempt me to COOK (tuna and fresh veggies!), and a wonderful view of snow-capped mountains overlooking the lake. What more could anyone want.
I've extended my car hire for a few days - love the freedom it gives me - so am staying in the north of the south for a few more days before I start my great train journeys south - watch this space. Ciao everyone!

-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam